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Need help upgrading

347 Views 5 Replies 0 Participants Last post by  **DONOTDELETE**
I need help. I want to add 4-inches of suspension lift, a set (5) of 32" BFG MT's, change the gears to 4.56 and add a locker.

My problem is, I don't know where I can find the best prices for these things, since I am on a budget of no more than 2,000 dollars. (Read my profile)

I don't know if I change my gears in the rear to accomodate the larger tires with a 2.5L 4-banger, will I have to change them up front, too?

What is the best kind of locker to buy (best bang for my buck).

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My Jeep'n friends have a '91 yj and a '92 yj, both with the 2.5 and stock gearing. They can't use 5'th gear any time, but they both have a 3" body lift and run 33X12.5 without rubbing. I'd suggest you go 2.5" lift as that will more than adequately clear 32" tires. 4.56 seems alittle too high for my tastes, you'll be screaming the engine in OD trying to get up to highway speeds... I'm not privy to what the stock gearing with the 2.5 is, but I would say 4.10 at the most for 32" tires, unless you plan on going to 35" tires in the future... Personally, I'm putting 4.10 in my Cj and I do run 35" tires...

As far as lockers go, a lockright will be very adequate for a budget build in stock axles with 32" tires... also you might be able to put it in yourself to save on labor...

good luck and let us know what you decide

Florida Mud CJ-5
'77 RB304, t-150 D20 4" 35" swampers
If you change the ear axle you MUST change the front if you ever plan to run in four wheel drive. Not optional. If you are looking to use this rig off road quite a bit you will be much happier with the 4.56 over the 4.10. Clibming and crawling will be much less work. If this is a highway buggy you may want to go no deeper than 4.10
Good luck,
98TJ 4.56 Detroits 96XJ 3.73 Lockright

Opps forgot to address the front ratio - yes, a must. only time you can run different gears is if you have different sized tires... But that is NOT recomended, and should only be done by those who know...

I haven't done any rock climbing, but I couldn't see 32" tires needing anything more than 4.10's. But like I say, I mostly do trail riding and mud/sand.

Florida Mud CJ-5
'77 RB304, t-150 D20 4" 35" swampers
I have to agree with all the above regarding gears and lift. 2.5 Is all you need with 32's and 4.56 is way to low. 4.10 Would be a better all around gear, you can even go to 33's and still get good drivability. Lets look at your costs.

Tires...about $600 installed.
Gears...about $500 NOT installed (more on this in a min)
Locker..range $300-$600 depending on type
Lift....range $350-lots.

As you can see you are going to be hard pressed to do all of the above on your budget.
First is the tires. Find the best price you can and buy them. As long as you don't go off road you can drive it for awhile as is. I had 32's on my 84 CJ with 3.31 gears and it wasn't too bad. You need to verify what gears you do have. If you have 3.73, I wouldn't worry about it right now.
Next is the lift. One important point to understand is that once you put it one, your stuck with it unless you want to waste all that money. Considering that you are one of the few that has a wonderful spouse who obviously shares your interest, I would recomend putting on a lift that will not ride like an M1A1. Most of the lifts in the low price range ride stiff (experience talking here). Go back and read some of the old least 2 months back. One option is an SOA (Spring Over Axle). This will keep your stock springs and soft ride..but you end up with about 5". If you have access to a welder and some helpfull buddies, this may be your cheapest choice. Make sure you read all the notes on problems that a lift causes...i.e., driveline vibration, break lines, etc.

Gears and Lockers. This depends on how hard you drive it. The lockright is ok for light duty..the Detroit or ARB being the best for heavy duty. I like the ARB because I can leave it unlocked when I'm on the open road. Once again, go read the old posts on this subject. Which ever way you go, do the locker and gears at the same time. It will cut the labor in half. As for gears...I have done it and screwed it up the first time. I bought Genuine gears from 4 Wheel Wholesale so they will replace them for free. Labor to install gears usually runs $175-250 per diff. If you think you can handle it, then you can save quite a bit by doing it yourself. Check out Drive Train Direct. They have some of the best prices. I got my axles and locker from them.

Good luck with the jeep .....and the new son...

John......southern CA
84CJ7, 3"lift, 32"BFG, 4.10's, ARB Locker, Solid Axle's, Durabak
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I've got to disagree about 4.10 gears being OK for 32" tires on a 4 banger. With 30" tires on mine I pretty much lost 5th gear unless on a slightly downill or steeper grade. If you are doing any highway driving with 32's then you must go with 4.56 gears (and actually 4.88 gears might be better). 32" tires are about 14.3% larger than the stock tires (28"). Multiply your stock 4.10 gears by this and your new ratio comes out at 4.69--not available so you choose between 4.56 or 4.88. If you don't regear and get 32's, you will be OK offroad, although your crawl ratio will suffer, but onroad you just won't be happy. I'm planning a regear before I go to 31's. Oh yeah, if you have an automatic tranny, you may be slightly better off due to the torque converter./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
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