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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
does anybody have detailed directions on how to charge the A/c system? i have the R-134a but i don't know where to hook it up to and what all nbeeds to be done. if you could help me I'fd appreciate it...pictures are good too.
---Peacock

If it hasn't broken, let your girlfriend drive it...it'll break real quick
 
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peacock - do you have the hose? it will only fit on one of the fittings (i THINK low side but i cant remember for sure). anyways - the fittings are different size and they have different color caps so you cant screw it up. im pretty sure it even says on the freon can where to hook it up. all you do is hook it up and run the truck with ac on for like 10 min and thats it. i just posted to someone else that its really easy earlier today

Mike ~
* Earnhardt Forever *

89 Chevy K1500 - 350TBI/700R4/NP241 - 3" lift - 33's
 

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The long version:
The mineral oil used in R-12 systems is not compatible with R-134a - it gels. R-134a requires a higher pressure drop to give the same cooling performance. Older dessicant is not compatible with R-134a. The solutions to these 3 concerns are:
1) Disassemble the system, pour flush into each component (except the accumulator/dryer) $16/bottle, & blow out all the old oil with compressed air.
2) Install a new orifice tube sized for R-134a and reset the low-pressure switch to 22psi.
3) Install a new accumulator/dryer with compatible dessicant.
4) Pour about 1/2 the recommended oil charge into the compressor & 1/2 into the acc/drier.
To ID the system as R-134a, change the port fittings to the new style. Adding a high-pressure switch set to ~500psi on the outlet of the compressor is also recommended.

Immediately after installing the new acc/dryer, tighten all fittings & evacuate the system. This removes air & water & tests for leaks. Start the engine, turn the A/C on HI fan, Max/Recirculate, Cold. It should not run because of the low-pressure switch. Install gauges to both ports & add refrigerant until the high side is about 450psi. The low side should be about 26psi, depending on the ambient air temp. Check for leaks.

The short version:
Buy the Intermatic kit at Wal-Mart for $35 and follow the instructions./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L
Build it; Don't buy it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yeah, i have the hose...it looks like the same type opf set up we have on the air compressor in the shop. All i have to do is just hook the bloody thing up and run the A/C for 10min? that sounds very easy. I think I'll swing by the quick-E-mart and read the directions on the back of one there and see what i can do. the old man had this can laying around from when he was going to refill one of the cars....R-12 though so he couldn;t do it. I figured as long as i had it laying there i might just as well use the bloody thing.
Thanks for the help.
---Peacock

If it hasn't broken, let your girlfriend drive it...it'll break real quick
 

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I got to say that if if you don't know what your doing ,then don't do it.Please find a professional to do so you don't get hurt.You know what the parts guys call that little kit ......suicide kit

 
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i dont think hes talking about changing his system over from the old stuff to the new stuff, hes just talking about charging the system! thats easy

Mike ~
* Earnhardt Forever *

89 Chevy K1500 - 350TBI/700R4/NP241 - 3" lift - 33's
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yeah, I'm talking abouit hooking up a little can top something and turning some valve to let the new stuff into the system. no switching or changing for me.
---Peacock

If it hasn't broken, let your girlfriend drive it...it'll break real quick
 

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And I'm talking about SAFETY.If you don't know what your doing,the quickie kit has NO gauge on it to see if the pressures getting to hi and the can can blow up in your hand,or overcharge the system and burn up the compressor or charge it with liquid and lock up the compressor and break the reed vavles or pistons.Check out the adds for a/c service and get a pro to do it!

 
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