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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am building a CJ-7 to be a good rock crawler. This a the setup, 360, 727, D-300, Dana 60 front w/ 4.56 gears, 14 bolt Full floater w/ 4.56 gears. Now I know I am going to go with a SOA but I am trying to deciede if I should use stock springs or a set of 2 1/2" springs. I am wanting to clock the transfer case so that I can use a flat skid plate, but if I do this with the 2 1/2" spring being SOA will I need CV joint on both the front and rear drive shaft??
I know that I can probably get away with not using them if I use the stock springs but I am unsure about the 2 1/2" springs.
Anyone have any input???

Peanut

 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hey Peanut I am going SOA with 2 1/2" springs in about a month(just need some last minute parts).....I say go for it. I was considering stock springs but I talked to some people and everyone agreed they sag too fast. Then I was going with OME 2 1/2" springs until this past weekend when I saw a CJ with them and realized how SOFT they really were(see Too much flex thread) so finally I have decided to just use the springs I got on my YJ right now, 2 1/2" pro comp.

I know I know everyone hates pro comp but I like mine. Not incredibly stiff, but stiff enough for when I go SOA. So if you wait a little bit I will be able to give tons of input.

absolutjeep
http://members.tripod.com/iluvjeeps
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the input, when you get your swap done please let me know how it all went.

Peanut

 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wow Peanut, sounds like a great setup!
And you have a good question but how much different are the yokes when rotating the transfer case?
I don't know much about this but is it just the front yoke that is affected or both yokes?
If the front is drastic then you might want to turn the pinion on the front axle with a CV joint to keep caster
reasonable.

Lee

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Peanut,
Sounds as though you are sort of doing the same I am trying to square away. I have an 85 CJ-7 that I am outfitting with a stroked 350 (383ci), 465/205 locked front and rear Dana 60 and 70 with 4:88's on 44" Boggers and Pro comp 4" SOA. I will run primarily in mud and sand as NC doesn't have a whole lot of rocks on the east side. I could use some pointers myself on drivetrain issues. I am trying to get mine set up before the spring gets here. wayne [email protected]
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, as far as I can tell right now I am going to need a long travel driveshaft for sure so that I don't put the shaft apart during maximum flex, and I am pretty sure that I will need a CV joint on the front shaft but I am unsure of the rear right now. I am thinking that I might if I use the 2 1/2" spring with the SOA.
did you say that you already have your 4" springs with the SOA running?? If so, do you have any vibrations?? or ????
Peanut

 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i hope you plan on at least 38 in tires to justify the running gear. in that case i would use 2.5in rear springs at all four corners. shackle reversal is optional. i would also consider running the rear springs outboard of the frame to make the jeep more stable(ala commando).

some food for thought.

dan

/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.giflet it snow/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You are right on the mark Dan, I am going to run a minimum of 38" tires for my ground clearence.
As far as the rear springs being outboard the frame, I am going to run them in the original CJ locations to achieve more flex for the rear, now the front springs will have to run outboard the frame for usual reasons.
Do ya think that I will need the CV's front and rear???

Peanut

 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm looking at the same swap (Dana 60F and 14 bolt FF Rear), but I think that I'm going to go with OE springs to keep the angle down, but the front really bothers me bc I would like to keep the OE chevy caster. Make sure the 38s are true 38s not 36 bc that 14 hangs real low. Personal I am going with 44s and will cut the fenders and make custom flare, but thats a long way off. To keep the negative caster you can't run a CV up front unless you cut and weld the pumpkin up, but I will more then likely go with a CV in the rear. How are mounting the front springs outboard up front? Are you welding square tubes to the frame or just mounting hangers like some pickups use in the rear?

Tim Springer
1980 CJ7
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think that I am going to run a set of 38" TSL's, aren't they a true 38"?? I know that most aren't but a few are.
As far as the spring hangers outboard the frame, I am going to use 2"x2" heavey wall tubing with a 3/8"x2" wide x 6" long piece of flat steel between the tubing and the frame to get my spacing exact for the hangers to mount.
How were planning on mounting your spring hangers to the frame??

Peanut

 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the front driveshaft should not need a CV. if your rear gets shorter than about 15-16 inches i would consider a CV for it. the pinion hangs a little lower on a 14bolt than a d60 so you will have a little more angle on the shaft.

dan

/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.giflet it snow/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 
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