Off Roading Forums banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
G

·
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody done this? I now realize how tricky this is gong to be. I know that if I use a semi-floater 60 out of a 3/4 ton Ford van it will be much easier. The problem is, now I have my heart set on a full-floater. Call me an "idjit", but once I've been told I'm doing things the hard way I really want to finish up and "show dem guys" ( The problem being that "dem guys" are usually right and rarely impressed). What route have you Dana 60 runners taken?

"My other car is a BULLDOZER"
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
it may be easier to us a semi float and put a warn floater on it. unless you want to run 8lug wheels are have the hubs and drums machined it might be a better way to go.

dan

/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.giflet it snow/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The other Dana 60 options for full floating is full width. Wider is better (most of the time).

Tim Springer
1980 CJ7
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,491 Posts
I decided to leave my 60 stock length.
I got 2, 15 x 10" steel wheels and changed the offset. I ground down the welds and took the centers out of the rims, they still fit very tight, (had to use a hammer to move them). after moving them to where i wanted, i put them on the axle (unwelded) and spun they by hand, hammering alittle here and there to get them straight and running true. then tack welded them, (checked again) then took to my professional welder and he put a bead on better than the factory. (i have a set of un-modified 15 x 10" on the front and they wobble/hop more than the 2 rear modified)

i also have a set of 4, 16 x 7" wheels i've changed the offset on also, my street(state inspection) set/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif the point is it's not very hard.

(you just have watch your brake drum or caliper, tie-rod etc... clearance) i have a write-up with pictures on my Jeep Page also........

3/4tonYJ
My Jeep Page
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Utahjeepr,
I have done what you're looking at and it was a bit of a challenge, but was certainly not impossible. E-mail me offline and I'll step you
through it. So far, I have about 5000 miles on it and it's held up well. No odd behavior at all.

Jason '87YJ

[email protected]
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Why would narrowing a full floater be any different than narrowing a semi floater. You would still have to cut off the tubes to length and then weld the ends back on. It wouldn't make any difference what ends you welded on at that point. Steve

Mopar360yj
87yj+20,74CHR.030360,SOA,35BFGATs,46RH,241DHD,
D60-44-4.10
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
not necessarily. the proper way to narrow a full float sixty is to pull the tubes out of the center section, cut and turn the end and press it back into the housing. if you cut that nicely made one piece tube and spindle and weld it back together you wasted a lot of the strength that was engineered into it.

dan

/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.giflet it snow/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's as simple as popping the tubes out of the housing, cutting them down to desired length, popping them back in, resplining the axles, and going wheelin'.

Lance Clifford
Pirates of the Rubicon Webmaster
http://www.pirate4x4.com
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Don't most dana 60 full floater tubes get bigger just outside the housing thus preventing them to be cut and pressed back in the housing without doing some machine work? At that point just ship the housing to moser eng. and let them narrow it for around $180. Lance, you certainly make taking the tubes out and pressing them back in sound easy. Steve

Mopar360yj
87yj+20,74CHR.030360,SOA,35BFGATs,46RH,241DHD,
D60-44-4.10
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top