Mutz Build
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After installing the engine I wanted to see if it would crank over. Of course NOT, why would life be that good? I ended up looking into the wiring of the Scout and decided that with half the connectors being melted, about half a dozen wires not connected or present, and about the same number with splices or but connections on them from other re-work it was time that the Scout received a new nervous system.
I took my time and labeled every connector and wire that I removed and found it on the schematics that the repair manual has in it.
I took my time and labeled every connector and wire that I removed and found it on the schematics that the repair manual has in it.
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I then purchased some general wire at different gauges. I continued to look for better parts and ended up purchasing a whole new setup for the Scout. A little pricey but I believe it will perform beyond the Scout’s needs and allow me to have room to expand. It took a couple of days, a lot of patience, scanning and color coding the wires as I installed the, but the wiring got 98% complete.
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Got a couple distribution blocks for grounds and +12V when the truck is on. Installed a fused panel for components for when the truck is on, and a few for when the truck is not on or even ACC power. I can use these fused panels for a CB, the Radio, Extra lights, anything I want to have power to it weather the truck is ON, switched to ACC, or even OFF.
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wiring complete
The completion of the wiring… well that is a lie. The completion of the wiring in the dash, that's more like it, has been completed. New wiring goes thru a large main fuse and thru the firewall where I break it up to go to 3 different locations. The first 2 spots are fuse panels that will always have power available to them. One for the relays for various items that I want to have available even with the truck off, such as radio, aux. lights, CB, etc. The second fuse panel will be for the switches that activate the relays for the various always available devices.
The third leg of the main wiring goes to a solenoid that is activated by the ignition switch. This solenoid will feed a fuse panel for the normal items that only have power when ignition is on; headlights, heater, window wiper motor, etc.
All the interconnections that need to be done in the dash have been completed and everything has been loomed in quick access wire -loom. The re-wiring has stopped for a bit at the fire-wall and other strategic points for now; I am waiting on parts to finish the dash and I have other goals for what is outside the cab area.
The completion of the wiring… well that is a lie. The completion of the wiring in the dash, that's more like it, has been completed. New wiring goes thru a large main fuse and thru the firewall where I break it up to go to 3 different locations. The first 2 spots are fuse panels that will always have power available to them. One for the relays for various items that I want to have available even with the truck off, such as radio, aux. lights, CB, etc. The second fuse panel will be for the switches that activate the relays for the various always available devices.
The third leg of the main wiring goes to a solenoid that is activated by the ignition switch. This solenoid will feed a fuse panel for the normal items that only have power when ignition is on; headlights, heater, window wiper motor, etc.
All the interconnections that need to be done in the dash have been completed and everything has been loomed in quick access wire -loom. The re-wiring has stopped for a bit at the fire-wall and other strategic points for now; I am waiting on parts to finish the dash and I have other goals for what is outside the cab area.
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Body Bushings
Ordered from energy suspensions; came with everything needed except new bolts; which is fine for me cause I am not sure they would have sent grade 8 plated bolts. I took a measurement of the smallest holed washer and it turned out to be 7/16". I went to Copper State nut and bolt and got me 8 sets of 7/16" plated gade 8 bolts with 2 washers each and an all metal lock nut. I measured a bolt from the front floorboard mount and it was about 2.5" long, compared that with the new bushings and washers and decided that that size would work perfect. I also checked on what bolts I would need to replace the ones for the springs and grabbed them too (7/16" 2.5" long with 2 washers and an all metal locking nut), So 20+ sets of the these from the store and back to installing on the Scout. I forgot to remove the fan/fan shroud so while installing the new bushings, which involved jacking up the body on one side of the truck at a time, I inevitably broke the fan shroud (again - it had been broken in the past). After getting the front 2 mounts redone I ran into my first snag; the center rear bolt had to be longer, the second snag was that the rear mount needed longer as well. One more trip to Copper State I got a couple different sizes for the center rear and I got the proper size for the rear. I had to help the center rear bolts thru the holes due to a slight alignment issue. Once I had that bolt installed and the rear bolt installed; I completed the both sides fairly quickly.
Ordered from energy suspensions; came with everything needed except new bolts; which is fine for me cause I am not sure they would have sent grade 8 plated bolts. I took a measurement of the smallest holed washer and it turned out to be 7/16". I went to Copper State nut and bolt and got me 8 sets of 7/16" plated gade 8 bolts with 2 washers each and an all metal lock nut. I measured a bolt from the front floorboard mount and it was about 2.5" long, compared that with the new bushings and washers and decided that that size would work perfect. I also checked on what bolts I would need to replace the ones for the springs and grabbed them too (7/16" 2.5" long with 2 washers and an all metal locking nut), So 20+ sets of the these from the store and back to installing on the Scout. I forgot to remove the fan/fan shroud so while installing the new bushings, which involved jacking up the body on one side of the truck at a time, I inevitably broke the fan shroud (again - it had been broken in the past). After getting the front 2 mounts redone I ran into my first snag; the center rear bolt had to be longer, the second snag was that the rear mount needed longer as well. One more trip to Copper State I got a couple different sizes for the center rear and I got the proper size for the rear. I had to help the center rear bolts thru the holes due to a slight alignment issue. Once I had that bolt installed and the rear bolt installed; I completed the both sides fairly quickly.
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Drive Shafts
I took the Scout to a local driveshaft shop; and they had some changes to my original setup for things under the Scout. First they asked if I could tilt the rear end up some to help with the angle that it had, second the guy said I would have clearance issues in the front with the way it was setup. So I took the scout home and decided that the tilt of the rear axle would be easy with just some shims 6* shims. I measured the width of the spring pack and it was 2", I contacted a local place that was suggested by the driveshaft shop it was titled along the lines of "custom automotive metal fabrication". I asked if they had 6* shims for a rear axle; they said that they did and that they were [something cheaper than anything I had seen online] so I got excited. I then asked them for the widths that were available and I was told 2.5". I asked if they could narrow them to 2" and they said "No". WHAT!?!? A custom metal shop could not cut off .25" from either side of an aluminum wedge? In my frustration I hit the internet again and found Tough Country made exactly what I should have been looking for all along; solid steel 2" wide 6* shims with new centering pins; these were quite affordable (not quite as cheap as the local store but cheaper than anything else I could find on the net) and were exactly (in my mind) what the Scout deserves. I ordered them and waited. It did not take them long to arrive; and after arrival it did not take me long to realize I needed other parts on the Scout. I removed the passenger rear leaf spring pack and that is when I found out that the bushings for the springs/shackles were done in. No problem I told myself I will order a full set for the Scout, Front and Rear. While I was ordering the shims I placed an order for body bushings which came in as well.
I took the Scout to a local driveshaft shop; and they had some changes to my original setup for things under the Scout. First they asked if I could tilt the rear end up some to help with the angle that it had, second the guy said I would have clearance issues in the front with the way it was setup. So I took the scout home and decided that the tilt of the rear axle would be easy with just some shims 6* shims. I measured the width of the spring pack and it was 2", I contacted a local place that was suggested by the driveshaft shop it was titled along the lines of "custom automotive metal fabrication". I asked if they had 6* shims for a rear axle; they said that they did and that they were [something cheaper than anything I had seen online] so I got excited. I then asked them for the widths that were available and I was told 2.5". I asked if they could narrow them to 2" and they said "No". WHAT!?!? A custom metal shop could not cut off .25" from either side of an aluminum wedge? In my frustration I hit the internet again and found Tough Country made exactly what I should have been looking for all along; solid steel 2" wide 6* shims with new centering pins; these were quite affordable (not quite as cheap as the local store but cheaper than anything else I could find on the net) and were exactly (in my mind) what the Scout deserves. I ordered them and waited. It did not take them long to arrive; and after arrival it did not take me long to realize I needed other parts on the Scout. I removed the passenger rear leaf spring pack and that is when I found out that the bushings for the springs/shackles were done in. No problem I told myself I will order a full set for the Scout, Front and Rear. While I was ordering the shims I placed an order for body bushings which came in as well.
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Spring Bushings
With the passenger rear spring pack off I had to remove the old bushings and install the new ones I got from Energy Suspensions. They had a waiting time for the red bushings so I went with black (probably a better choice for the springs anyway). I had difficulties removing the metal outer sleeve for the driver rear and passenger front shackle, but all the other bushing and bushing paraphilia came out without much of a problem. Good thing I got new bolts some of these were ready to shear off and leave me stranded; not that I have driven the Scout (much) but one day… So back to the shims now that the bushings are completed on the front and the back passenger, I clamp the spring pack and remove the original alignment bolt to find that the hole is quite a bit smaller than the new alignment bolt is. Got the drill, some cutting oil, and a few newly sharpened bits and went to work; once I got the holes drilled and the shim anchored with the new alignment pin installing the spring pack back in the Scout was painless. Driver side completed and off to the driveshaft shop again. This time the tech said that the cross member (although lower) is still too high, I was prepared for this and already have a solution - I just did not want to have to do it due to wanting the most clearance I could get. Now this time the Tech likes the rear angle but still decides that a CV is needed on the output of the x-fer. There is no CV output yoke for a 203so he was going to install a 205 output CV yoke on the rear of the 203 and get a new seal to close it up but with the Scout in their shop for 2 days they had no answer for the seal. I called a different driveshaft shop and the guy on the phone said that they know what needs to be done to get the 205 CV yoke on the 203 and what seal needs to be used. I picked up the Scout and took it over to the other shop and let them have it (once I lowered the x-fer x-member some more). 2 days later I was able to pick it up.
With the passenger rear spring pack off I had to remove the old bushings and install the new ones I got from Energy Suspensions. They had a waiting time for the red bushings so I went with black (probably a better choice for the springs anyway). I had difficulties removing the metal outer sleeve for the driver rear and passenger front shackle, but all the other bushing and bushing paraphilia came out without much of a problem. Good thing I got new bolts some of these were ready to shear off and leave me stranded; not that I have driven the Scout (much) but one day… So back to the shims now that the bushings are completed on the front and the back passenger, I clamp the spring pack and remove the original alignment bolt to find that the hole is quite a bit smaller than the new alignment bolt is. Got the drill, some cutting oil, and a few newly sharpened bits and went to work; once I got the holes drilled and the shim anchored with the new alignment pin installing the spring pack back in the Scout was painless. Driver side completed and off to the driveshaft shop again. This time the tech said that the cross member (although lower) is still too high, I was prepared for this and already have a solution - I just did not want to have to do it due to wanting the most clearance I could get. Now this time the Tech likes the rear angle but still decides that a CV is needed on the output of the x-fer. There is no CV output yoke for a 203so he was going to install a 205 output CV yoke on the rear of the 203 and get a new seal to close it up but with the Scout in their shop for 2 days they had no answer for the seal. I called a different driveshaft shop and the guy on the phone said that they know what needs to be done to get the 205 CV yoke on the 203 and what seal needs to be used. I picked up the Scout and took it over to the other shop and let them have it (once I lowered the x-fer x-member some more). 2 days later I was able to pick it up.
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Exhaust
With drive shafts on the Scout I was able to start it up in the parking lot of the Drive Shaft shop (no exhaust just headers) and drove it onto the trailer! Making great headway with the project. I took the Scout directly to a muffler shop and had them install the exhaust (mostly due to the bends - I could have welded it); I supplied collectors and gaskets and cherry bombs. I told the guy what I wanted and where I wanted it ran he replied with a no problem and a price, a little negotiation over the diameter of the pipe and the Scout was now in their capable hands. They said it would be done the next day but I decided I needed a day off from the Scout and went rhomping with my friend with my 'roided out golf cart and his 2500 burban. I went to the exhaust shop and got the Scout the next day and started it up… it is great sounding; even with very short exhaust and just cherry bombs for mufflers and true dual it is quiet.
With drive shafts on the Scout I was able to start it up in the parking lot of the Drive Shaft shop (no exhaust just headers) and drove it onto the trailer! Making great headway with the project. I took the Scout directly to a muffler shop and had them install the exhaust (mostly due to the bends - I could have welded it); I supplied collectors and gaskets and cherry bombs. I told the guy what I wanted and where I wanted it ran he replied with a no problem and a price, a little negotiation over the diameter of the pipe and the Scout was now in their capable hands. They said it would be done the next day but I decided I needed a day off from the Scout and went rhomping with my friend with my 'roided out golf cart and his 2500 burban. I went to the exhaust shop and got the Scout the next day and started it up… it is great sounding; even with very short exhaust and just cherry bombs for mufflers and true dual it is quiet.
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Brake Lines
With the Scout sitting at its ride height, noticing that the front brake lines were straight with no slack was easy. I decided that before I tried to drive the Scout (besides around the block) I should replace the brake lines. This is also a good idea because of the brush fire that went under the Scout. The lines were not damaged per-se but they were aged, weathered, and short. I got stainless steel braided cables made for it; the rear had a line added in it already and had plenty of movement so I had that one created to the same length. I decided that 8" of downward travel should be plenty (for now at least) so I had the front lines lengthened by 8" (the shackles measure 5"). They reused the part that bolts to the caliper so when I got back home with my new brake lines I had to clean the 30+ years of crap off of them. They look good installed and ready to stop the rig. The rear bolt that holds the "T" for the brake lines to the axle is also the breather for the rear diff. During this time that I had it off and was routing brake lines under the Scout I decided that I should add the breather tubes for the axles. Quick and easy job; but will save my rear (and the differentials too).
With the Scout sitting at its ride height, noticing that the front brake lines were straight with no slack was easy. I decided that before I tried to drive the Scout (besides around the block) I should replace the brake lines. This is also a good idea because of the brush fire that went under the Scout. The lines were not damaged per-se but they were aged, weathered, and short. I got stainless steel braided cables made for it; the rear had a line added in it already and had plenty of movement so I had that one created to the same length. I decided that 8" of downward travel should be plenty (for now at least) so I had the front lines lengthened by 8" (the shackles measure 5"). They reused the part that bolts to the caliper so when I got back home with my new brake lines I had to clean the 30+ years of crap off of them. They look good installed and ready to stop the rig. The rear bolt that holds the "T" for the brake lines to the axle is also the breather for the rear diff. During this time that I had it off and was routing brake lines under the Scout I decided that I should add the breather tubes for the axles. Quick and easy job; but will save my rear (and the differentials too).
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Joined
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421 Posts
looking good. not a hack together job like i usually do. beautiful work with the wires, nice and clean
I usually do a quick hackjob myself but since "I have always wanted a Scout II" and "I will probably have this truck til I die" I decided to try and make it nice. I have already decided that there are some re-wiring that I will have to do. I don't know if any of the pictures I have posted show them, but I have an array of relays that sit near the floor board behind the brake pedal, while bleeding the brakes after the line installs I noticed that I hit the array; they will be moved, plus then that lifts my electronics off the floor that will allow for more water depth if it comes to that in the future...
Most of the larger parts of the electronics came from CE Auto Electric (Arizona) - CE Auto Electric Supply - Home- a little pricy but he had everything I needed (and then some) so I spent a lil more with a 1 stop shop then trying to find the cheapest price for what I wanted from different sources. If you buy anything from him please let him know that you got his info from me; he might work a deal with you, and it might work in my benefit too...
Well you don good work and I appreciate it.. I like your ride because its looking very nice.. mostly I don't like this color but here it looks good but you need to do paint work again.. good sharing, thanks for sharing.
More Wiring
Engine harness and wires done, "Front" wire harness done, and "Rear" harness completed. I re-arranged the harnesses a little different than how stock had them, but pretty close to the same. With this setup it is easy to disconnect and move the wires out of the way for any major engine work or body work that may come in the future.
Engine harness and wires done, "Front" wire harness done, and "Rear" harness completed. I re-arranged the harnesses a little different than how stock had them, but pretty close to the same. With this setup it is easy to disconnect and move the wires out of the way for any major engine work or body work that may come in the future.
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Dash
With the wiring almost 100% complete and the Scout pretty much drive-able I ordered some new upgraded parts. First I ordered a new dash bezel, stainless steel - brushed. It is set up for round gauges (which I purchased after receiving the bezel) and a radio spot is already cut out. A bit of manipulation to the original gauge bezel and some drilling I got the new bezel installed on the old one; now time for gauges. While I was setting up the gauges I decided to cover over the wood grain contact paper with cloth; forest camo.
With the wiring almost 100% complete and the Scout pretty much drive-able I ordered some new upgraded parts. First I ordered a new dash bezel, stainless steel - brushed. It is set up for round gauges (which I purchased after receiving the bezel) and a radio spot is already cut out. A bit of manipulation to the original gauge bezel and some drilling I got the new bezel installed on the old one; now time for gauges. While I was setting up the gauges I decided to cover over the wood grain contact paper with cloth; forest camo.
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gauges
Looked all around and ended up with Equus gauges Checker - wait I mean O'Riley carries them in stock so if one goes bad (too much dirt or water) I can replace it no matter where I am at. Went with black faces and white letters. They are back lite with incandescent bulbs so the first upgrade is to find LEDs for them. Installed in the bezel on the dash; now to put the das in the Scout. Before I install the gauges in the Scout I want to do a little re-upholstering.
Looked all around and ended up with Equus gauges Checker - wait I mean O'Riley carries them in stock so if one goes bad (too much dirt or water) I can replace it no matter where I am at. Went with black faces and white letters. They are back lite with incandescent bulbs so the first upgrade is to find LEDs for them. Installed in the bezel on the dash; now to put the das in the Scout. Before I install the gauges in the Scout I want to do a little re-upholstering.
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Tires
Well I started driving the Scout to work once a week. This worked out well until one day I came out to go somewhere close by and noticed that my front passenger tire was started to de-tread. I thought nothing of it except to change it with one of the 2 spares I had and inspect the rest of the tires. No other tire was showing signs. One day after work I stopped at a store to get some things and when I came out the driver front tire was separating. This got me concerned knowing well that the other 2 tires are soon to fail too. So I changed out the front driver with one from the rear and put the smaller spare on the back passenger side. On my way home that very day another tire blew; this time it was the passenger rear (the one that looked the best imo). So I pulled over and got a ride home for the night (it was already really dark out). The next day I went to rescue my Scout with my trailer. The back tire blew out and rolled my rear fender under. I put the truck in 4x and drove it onto the trailer and took it home. Once home I called around and found a deal for the tires that I wanted. I went with BFG KM2 35x12.5R15 - I got 6 of them - I like to have spare tires. Of course since I am this far into the truck I noticed that I had some rubbing of the rims on my calipers; so I shaved the calipers just enough to keep it from rubbing. I also took advantage of this time to replace the bearings in the knuckles/lockers and clean/rebuild the original IH wheel locks.
Well I started driving the Scout to work once a week. This worked out well until one day I came out to go somewhere close by and noticed that my front passenger tire was started to de-tread. I thought nothing of it except to change it with one of the 2 spares I had and inspect the rest of the tires. No other tire was showing signs. One day after work I stopped at a store to get some things and when I came out the driver front tire was separating. This got me concerned knowing well that the other 2 tires are soon to fail too. So I changed out the front driver with one from the rear and put the smaller spare on the back passenger side. On my way home that very day another tire blew; this time it was the passenger rear (the one that looked the best imo). So I pulled over and got a ride home for the night (it was already really dark out). The next day I went to rescue my Scout with my trailer. The back tire blew out and rolled my rear fender under. I put the truck in 4x and drove it onto the trailer and took it home. Once home I called around and found a deal for the tires that I wanted. I went with BFG KM2 35x12.5R15 - I got 6 of them - I like to have spare tires. Of course since I am this far into the truck I noticed that I had some rubbing of the rims on my calipers; so I shaved the calipers just enough to keep it from rubbing. I also took advantage of this time to replace the bearings in the knuckles/lockers and clean/rebuild the original IH wheel locks.
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