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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I found a 304 that supposedly has been rebuilt about 5 years ago with 7-8K on the rebuild. The PO before had a monster dash fire that fried the harness and was unable to get it to fire up for it's CO (current owner). He said they were jumping wires under the hood in trying, but he said he doubted the ignition was even wired correctly.

I went this weekend to look at it. There was just a thin film inside the valve covers when we removed them (no crude on the topside of the heads at all), w/ new valves, springs, rockers and pushrods. There was a very slight carbon build up on the pistons that looked like flat black paint. I couldn't see the cyl. walls very well to look for a crosshatch, but could see a sheen/reflection of the piston on them. The paint on everything was fresh (5 years old)and the gaskets were UN-painted with a little RTV on them. Actually looks like a rebuilt engine /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif.

All that being said, I'm asking the CO that it fires before I buy it (no word yet). If he gives the green light, I'll pull my points dist., starter, & battery out and use an old bellhousing to see if it'll fire up. I'm planning on doing an oil change prior to attempting to run it. Can I "prime" the engine by spinning the gear through the dist. hole? Which way does it rotate to pump? Can I check the oil pressure this way also or will it read weird without everything spinning? Anythingelse to check without dropping the pan at this point?

If all goes well, I'll yank the pan for a peek prior to swapping it into the Commando. Also, planning on doing the TR upgrade since Aaron says the Prestolite is a POS.

Caver Dave
'72 Commando
Oo=====oO
 

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DING! DING! DING! DING!

Sounds like you found a winner!
You did your home work, now it's time to reap the benefits!
That little film of oil will settle on everything in short order. Sort of a dark tan, and sticks like mad to everything...
You will have a coating on everything in 2,000 miles.

About the primer...
You can not use the distributor to turn the pump. The gear will engage the cam gear, and you will scrap something...

You do have a couple of options...
(I just love this idea from a user here!)
1. Take a 1/2" flat wood drill bit, and grind the point and cutting edges flat.
A long shank will work the best.
Drop a 1/2" deep well socket over the bit.
The flat blade of the drill bit is the correct size for the oil pump shaft slot.
The flats on the top of the drill bit allow for good grip by the drill.
The 1/2" socket will slip over the oil pump shaft, and keep the 'pre-oiler' in place while you are using it!

Sheer genius!

2. Take the prestolite distributor apart.
(it's going to save you about $50 for a core charge if you use the other wood drill method)
Clean off the top of the distributor shaft so you can chuck it in a drill motor.
Grind off all the teeth on the gear so they don't engage the camshaft.
Use the shaft and what's left of the gear to turn the oil pump shaft.

So many cats, so few recipes...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the pointers Aaron. I knew about the primer trick, just wasn't sure of direction (does it even matter?). The wood bit trick is very do-able as I have a few dozen that are toast (at least for drilling wood!) Destroying my core dist. is not!

Caver Dave
'72 Commando
Oo=====oO
 

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Direction is clockwise.
Opposite of vacuum advance direction.
Vacuum advance ALWAYS pulls against rotation.

So many cats, so few recipes...
 
G

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how fast should the oil pump be spun with the drill? Thanks, Brendan

Proud owner of the world's best running Carter BBD
 
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