Off Roading Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
G

·
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think I got screwed when the dealer took care of rebuilding the tranny (AX-15) in my '94 Jeep YJ Sahara. The original problem was the 3-4 synchro was bad, now I've got other problems... First off when I step on the clutch pedal it makes a creaking sound that doesn't match up to engine RPM, second shifting into first can only be easily accomplished by releasing the clutch in neutral and then depressing it again and shifting, and lastly getting into reverse as been a problem about 50% of the time. I find it hard to believe that all of these things could happen all of a sudden to a transmission that was recently rebuilt, they did go cheap on me and only replaced the shift fork, 3-4 synchro, and bearings...

I guess my big question is could possibly the clutch just need adjusted (maybe it is rubbing a very little bit), would this cause these types of problems... I did notice last night while i was trying to figure out was was wrong that with the clutch depressed and in 1st the truck would move ever so slightly, but if I clutched and put it in reverse it didn't, clutched and back into first it rolled slightly again... The only problem is the movement was so slight I can't be sure that it wasn't a slight slope on the concrete is there any way to find for sure... I also tried to repeat the movement in the parking lot at work today, but couldn't (maybe I was on a slight upslope and the friction wasnt enough??) Am I heading in the complete wrong direction?? Mabye I should just buy that AX-15 that I saw on EBAY for $650???

One last thing to mention, I replaced the gear oil with Mobil 1 75W90 GL-5... Should I have used a limited slip additive with it, would that help my shifting? I know I'm reaching, but I'm trying to think of everything?

Any help would be really appreciated.....
Just Empty Every Pocket.... Boy you aint kiddin'

Steve

1994 YJ Sahara
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,394 Posts
/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Your hunch is right Steve...the clutch IS dragging. You know, clutches are the ONE thing that haven't changed since I first laid a wrench on a car in the fifties, and they STILL mystify some mechanics. SHEESH! I have seen more clutch screw-ups than FUEL INJECTION screw ups. Adjustment is the main thing, but there is oh, so much more...../wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So a dragging clutch will make it hard to shift? I hope this is the problem and not another transmission prob /wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif How hard would it be to do myself? I'm at work right now and don't have access to my Haynes manual. Is it something that a newbie backyard mechanic could attempt, or should I leave it to the pros (yeah right the ones that installed it wrong in the first place /wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif ) You get anything done the way you want unless you do it yourself....

Steve

1994 YJ Sahara
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
In the long run you will save yourself a lot of money and aggravation learning to do it yourself (For example, I recently saved myself at least a couple grand doing locker and TeraLow t-case installs myself). Most automotive problems just require the desire to do them, along with a good manual, a decent set of tools, and patience. Remember, it is mechanical and will alwways follow certain natural laws. I'm not sure about the adjustment on your hydraulic clutch, but Dave is right, it is a sure sign of the clutch not releasing completely. Now might be as good a time as any to start learning.

Brad (from the 4 Wheeling center of the universe, 4 corners USA)
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was looking through the Haynes Manual and there is a section on how to replace the clutch, but nothing on adjusting the clutch. Is there an adjustment for it? I'm almost positive that this is the problem and I want to fix it, before I damage the transmission. What is the hex shaped piece on the back of the clutch master cylinder? I think the reason that it shifted good when i picked it up at the shop was that it was warm out (expanding the fluid inside) and now that it is colder out, the fluid is contracted and allowing the clutch to stick very slightly.. Just a guess

Steve

1994 YJ Sahara
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
how long ago was the work done? Did they give you any warranty? Even if they didn't, go back and raise hell. If you b%tch and moan and write some letters I'd bet they'll fix it. It usually works for me.

Nick Hagen
1995 Wrangler
33" Mud Tires and a four banger
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,394 Posts
/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Steve, my guess is that you have enough clutch THROW...otherwise where is the fluid going? So I really think the problem is that you are not starting from the right spot....some travel is being wasted before moving the actual throwout bearing. Look EVERYWHERE....get someone to sit in the Jeep and move the clutch...LOOK for movement...from the pedal to the master cylinder...from the slave cylinder to the fingers...etc...SWEEP OUT all the corners on clutch travel. You probably have enough if it was set up correctly./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Steve my 98 TJ has been having the same symptoms has you have described. I have bleed my clutch to no avail, and now I will be changing my Clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. There is no adjustment on my TJ, I can't say the same for your YJ but I beleive it is the
exact same set up has my TJ. I was told by a tranny shop that I probably have a "weak" pressure plate thus not allowing the disc to
fully disengage from the fly wheel. My problems also started after my TJ was at the dealership,they replaced the throw out bearing
and pilot bushing, and I went back to them with the problem and they say I just need a new clutch. I am through with Jeep dealerships.

 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gifI'm not buying that weak pressure plate story./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
If your pressure plate is weak your clutch will slip and the worst it
gets the worse your clutch will slip till you have no forward motion.
When you adjust your clutch just be sure that your throw out bearing
is disengages your pressure plate.So when your clutch is out the
throw out bearing is not turning.
I have seen throw out bearings adjusted by the book from going by free traval
of the clutch peddle in the cab still not disengage the throw out bearing .
I have never ever adjusted a hyd. clutch so little help there.
Just some small advice. I will leave the floor to people who know what
going on./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,517 Posts
From what I've seen with my S15 pickup supposedly the hydraulic clutch mechanism is self adjusting, and that (to the best of my recollection) there's no adjustment that can be made. I'm not sure if it'd be the same on a Jeep or not tho, just a thought...

Tim
"The_Sandman_454"

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif '79 Suburban 4x4 454, 6" lift, 35x12.5s & '85 GMC S15 4x4
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had the same problem on my 87 Ford. It was the clutch master cylinder.

80 CJ7 with 4 inch lift, 33x12.50x15 Trail T/A
98 KX250
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top