Yes and not always....... I've installed a couple, and have had to move the fan shroud on one, relocated the radiator on another, and when I do it I'm looking at the 1" raised motor mounts to avoid either.
Any body lift is going to require some additional work. The MORE is no
different. You will need to lower either the radiator or the shroud. You
will need to check the steering shaft for binding. If your clutch is
mechanical, you will need to check it's linkage.
Now, having said all that, the MORE 1" lift is one of the better lifts out
there. Are you sure 1" is enough? If so, you can't go wrong with the MORE.
I recently did the 1" Daystar lift on my '90 YJ and I'm pretty impressed with the quality, fit, and ease of installation. The only mod I had to make was to lower the fan shroud by 1". It involved drilling 4 small holes in the radiator mounting flange and bolting the shroud back on. From start to finish, the entire proceedure took about an hour and a half. I'm sure if I was in a hurry, it could've been done in under an hour. The beauty of the Daystar kit is that aside from being a body lift, it replaces your body mounts with the more desirable poly bushings, and they are one piece units so you don't have a lift 'puck' stacked on a body mount. This way, you don't have as much body roll as you would with a traditional body lift, and it has minimal effects on your rigs street manners. I love it. As far as I'm concerned, its the only body lift to get. That said, the MORE lift would be a fine 2nd choice, and shouldn't require any mods other than the fan shroud relocation. I wouldn't go with anything taller than a 1" though. Hope this helps. Happy Jeepin'!
I recently installed the Daystar 1" lift also. I also replaced my rad with a 3 core, engine mounts and fan (FlexALite 7" with 2 inch spacer) and did not have to modify the location of the shroud. Do you think that once the engine mounts get old I might have to relocate the shroud or rad? I have about 2 inches between the tip of the fan blade and the shroud.
BTW, my CJ makes less noise with the rubber Daystar mounts than with the Poly mounts, also less vibration....what a difference.
What I've always done to swap out motor mounts is a floor jack and a 2x4 under the oil pan, loosen the mount, jack it up a little
more, replaced the mount, let it back down. Only takes a few minutes, just make sure you are on level ground.
Brad (from the 4 Wheeling center of the universe, 4 corners USA)
I remember seeing some in the 4 wheel drive hardware catalog. I think they may even be made by (I could be wrong here) daystar, but they are exact bolt-in replacements for your oem engine mounts, with the exception of the 1" difference in height. I haven't seen anyone with these installed, but it should eliminate the need to reposition the fan shroud (although installing these would be more work than the shroud relocation), but I suppose it would also give you an extra 1" of ground clearance for the oil pan. The only downside I can see, is a slight increase in the vehicles center of gravity (not really enough to matter though). I thought about getting a set when I did my body lift, but I figured the point of the body lift was just a little extra clearance for the tires, and since a suspension/shackle lift is in the works, I would keep it as simple as possible for now. Maybe someone else can tell from experience, wouldn't this make the driveshaft angle slightly better? The engine would be an inch higher, but the transmission/transfer case would be the same height, so the entire assembly should angle down just a little more than it did, right? Would this be enough to compensate for a 1" suspension or shackle lift? Maybe some hood mods and a set of 6" higher motor mounts and you wouldn't have to go with a CV 'shaft after that 4" ProComp lift... Sorry, I couldn't resist... Happy Jeepin'!
You're right on the money there Spyder, the idea is to help with the rear driveline angle. Funny thing is that I hadn't even thought about the advantage of raising the oil pan that inch. Since I don't have a skid plate on there yet, I should have thought of that.
If that were possible, it would help the rear plenty, but wouldn't it mess up the front angle a bit? Because the tcase would be angled slightly up, causing a crimping action in the front driveshaft similar to what happened in the rear....right?
/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gifJust Empty Every Pocket/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif
I seem to remember reading somewhere that for proper driveshaft U-joint alignment the T-case output shaft and rear pinion centerlines should be parallel. Wouldn't the 1" engine lift screw this up? Although, a pinion wedge in the rear spring pack would fix that.
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