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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any experiences or opinions regarding the Mopar accessories for the 2000 TJ? I couldn't believe the stuff I saw in there, all under warranty if it's installed by your friendly local Chrysler dealer: Warn winches, tube bumpers, rocker panel guards and rails/bars, skid plates...everything a newly indebted boy needs!

I counted up over $3000 (MSRP, no install) worth of stuff I will seriously consider when I get my TJ. I just wonder, 1) is the Chrysler stuff tough enough and 2) is the ease of getting it outfitted from the dealer and the warranty worth the steep price tag?

Off the subject...is there any rub with 31x10.5's on a stock TJ (4-4.5" backspacing on 15x8 rims)? I figure that's where I'd start, then upgrade with the 4" lift and 33's after burning up the first set of tires...and recovering financially from buying the damned thing! Thanks!

 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
They only Mopar item I would get is the gas tank skid. It is the best there is but very pricey. The rest of the stuff is overpriced junk IMO.

I cant answer your rubbing question but lots of people will add a body/engine lift and/or 1" coil spacers. Each of those will cost about $100 and work very well.

If you plan on off-roading it then invest in skidplates. The stock tank hangs way low! SkidRow makes the best oil pan skid. The Mopar oil pan skid wont work with a lifted TJ unless heavy modification is done.

LarryM
'85 CJ7, 350TBI, T19
'00 TJ, 4.0, NV3550, D44
 

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I got a chance to see one of those "outfitted" TJ's, and they're outfitted OK, for the street that is. The nerf bars were exhaust tubing (can anyone say STEEL HORSE), the bumpers looked OK, but hung down a little far for wheeling, the light bar above the windshield would allow the lights to get caught on trees, but a Warn winch you say, that might be decent to look into. The problem with warranties is the dealerships can use excuses to not cover a part. If you find a "friendly" dealership, you're all set. The exhaust on our '97 TJ was ruined due to the cat falling apart and plugging it up. A new stock exhaust, BTW, including the cat and labor, is about $500. We looked into a cat-back and were going to get another cat as well, and for me to install it was still $300 to $350. One dealership said no-go, we wheeled with the TJ (I tried to argue but being so dented underneath I lost the battle) so they didn't have to cover it because under "normal" use it would not have failed. I argued the Jeeps are meant for wheeling and pointed out ALL his advertisements had the TJ off-road. Still no-go. So we took it to get a second opinion at another dealership, and the guy said kinda the same thing, but was sympathetic to us (he wheeled as well, but we had never met), so he looked into it further with his manager, then Chrysler Direct. He came back and said they'd warranty everything, no problem. Guess where we go and guess where we'll buy the next vehicle? My point is to look at where the dealership will do the work. If you bring them back a burned out Warn winch, will they try to tell you it was used off-road or improperly and not warranty it? You also might look into the extended warranty, we have 73K on the TJ and it's covered until 100,000, with a $50 deductible. So far we've replaced the rear axle (kept the housing, but the 3.54 gears, Trac-Lok, and ABS), radiator, radio, TPI sensor, fuel sending units (2), aforementioned exhaust & cat, and shifter console. Well worth the investment if you ask me.

As to the second question, 31's will not rub with the swaybar connected if you turn the steering stops out a little. We canned the 30's and went to 31's at 15K and have never looked back. With the swaybars disconnected there is a little rubbing on the top of the coil towers while wheeling, but otherwise nothing. I'd do it again in a minute. They should sell them with 31" BFG's anyway, what a selling point.

I'd throw any extra money into the jeep itself, like the D44, A/C, dual tops, and any other niceties first, then work on the rest when you have money/time. Just my honest opinion though.

JEEPN
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled!
GM151/SM465/NP205 twinstick/7"Lift/33"TSL's/IHC D44's 4.10's Lock'd
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info, fellas...that's what I was afraid of; that the Mopar stuff is overpriced pretty stuff that will break instantly. Yes, I'm going to wheel the hell out of it!

Larry, I noticed you have an "NV3550"...is that the new 5-speed for '00? What is the 1st gear ratio? The Jeep Book says it is 4.04, but everything else I've seen says 3.83, same as the old tranny. How do you like it?

Jeepn, where are the steering stops, how do I move them out, and how much? I'm thinking 31x10.5 BFG KO's for the first set of shoes, on 15x8 Black American Racing Rockcrawlers. I've heard a good backspacing is between 4 and 4.5".





 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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I'm running the stock 8" rims, so I'm not sure about the backspacing. The steering stops are next to the front axle u-joints. If you lock the tires to one side and get under the jeep in the front, you'll see how they work. They are nothing more than a bolt that screws in and out to limit the movement of the front end. I replaced mine with new bolts as the washers are welded to the bolt, but I have heard you can also put washers underneath and do the same thing. To adjust them, put the larger tires, on, and gradually back out the bolt until the tires do not rub (not much at all). Mine are adjusted so they just barely miss while on the road but rub slightly when flexing off-road. The new BFG AT KO's look nice, I'll be picking up a set for the Trooper this summer, and the TJ this fall. I need to get the BFG MT's soon as summer wheeling is upon us (I use the BFG AT's in the winter).

JEEPN
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled!
GM151/SM465/NP205 twinstick/7"Lift/33"TSL's/IHC D44's 4.10's Lock'd
 

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