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i um..once heard about ....well..ok.. my buddy swiped a bunch of orange from the HAZMAT locker at work.. it is the same orange the military rescue vehicles(like helicopters) are painted... it turned out great, but it is normal paint.. funny... a lot of jeeps in that area were white, orange, and olive drab.....

~~Elusive~~
it's sort of still a cj thingy....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
haha. Does it seem to be resistant to scratchs? I'm looking for something that I can spray myself and isn't going to require a lot of expertise. You wouldn't happen to know what you reduce it with or what a good product would be?

 

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If you get the 'Field Grade' paint, it seems to be a lot tougher...
The only problem is, the field grade paint only comes in flat, and I mean FLAT colors...
Flat Black, Flat Light Green, Flat Dark Green, Flat Brown.... You get the idea...
It is best applied uncut, with a sponge brush... I swear you can get in on 1/8 of an inch thick!
It resists scratches and gouges, and if it does get scratched, just feather the edges with a brick, and lay some more on ...
It's tough stuff.

I get it at the local surplus store, and it runs about $8 to $15 bucks a can depending on the color and if the can is dented or not...

All of the safety paint I have seen is high gloss, and usually plain paint.

By the way, the newer field grade paint is radar deflecting and will help keep laser guided stuff from locking onto you... That's for the benefit of you anti-government types out there...


Later folks,
Aaron.

"I Have The Body Of A God... Buddha"
 

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Check the stuff again. If it is CARC paint it is the "field grade flat" color paint that TR is speaking of: it is really durable and it definately hides scratches. Touchup is also a snap because there is no high gloss finish to smooth out - simply touchup with a coarse spray and you are done. *****BUT****** be forewarned: If you spill any oil based liquids on it - the stain is there to stay especially if it is on anything fiberglass or kevlar.

Note: When properly CARC'ed, netted, and backdropped, your Jeep will also be invisible at night to Gen III and below night vision goggles too! /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

Liberals don't mind being lied to . . . they just want to be lied to by someone they trust!
 
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I get it at the local surplus store, and it runs about $8 to $15 bucks a can depending on the color and if the can is dented or not... AND ... By the way, the newer field grade paint is radar deflecting and will help keep laser guided stuff from locking onto you... That's for the benefit of you anti-government types out there...
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Gotta have some of this stuff. It is priced right AND evading laser guided stuff ................ GOTTA HAVE SOME OF IT. /wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif Seriously, I do want to "OD" my TJ. I want the flat color. No shine, no gloss, and easy to touch up. Make some recommendations, please. Could probably get by without the radar deflecting if it made a bunch of difference in the cost. Interested in dull, flat, GI paint that is tuff and easy to touch up.
Thanks.

Doug '97 TJ
Creator of the CBrack
CBrack.com
 

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I know a fellow that used 20% zxylene to thin the paint he got from Surplus City. Cleans up with normal paint thinner. You can
handle the paint in 24 hrs, but full cure takes several months.

BHT
 
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I found a great paint that is very durable. I had a friend that ran in the demo derbys and we worked for a construction co. at the time and we got laid off when the co. went under. Well I had about 6 cans of safety yellow paint in my truck that we used to paint curbs and poles. Really thick stuff. Well we painted one of his cars with stuff using a roller. It really looked good and had a nice textured look to it. He ran in the demo derby and the paint proved to be very scratch resistant. Just ask for safety yellow curb paint at the paint store.
Aaron

 

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We just had the 'Field Grade' and 'Garrison Grade' paints when I was in.
The field grade is best applied with a brush or roller, uncut, you get a much thicker coat that way...
The Garrison Grade was almost a semi gloss, was already thin, and got used on vehicles that carried staff officers.

One thing to remember,
FLAT BLACK is FLAT BLACK.
No trying to match a thousand shades of red or three hundred shades of green.
Black is black. It matches perfectly no matter what.

Flat black is also hot as hell in the summer sun...

"I Have The Body Of A God... Buddha"
 

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I used to have a DJ5 that was olive drab..... painted by the previous owner (an ex-special forces type). I think he had it special mixed by a paint supplier, though. I used model airplane paint (available in all military colors) for touchup. Loved the looks I got on the highway, double takes from both civilians and military types (it was a rare left hand drive DJ). In traffic jams people got out of the way of my "big green thing", and for "outlaw camping" it was great..... pull it a few feet off the road and it just disappeared.

Now I have a red CJ5 that doesn't need a paint job, but sometimes I'm tempted.....

-Dana

Ethernet (n): something used to catch the etherbunny



 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay so I can get in flat colors which is good. The yellow curb stuff would be cool, but its going to part hunting vehicle/part evasive radar vehicle (haha) and I would something between a brown and tan. I guess I'm stuck beteen the "field" grade and "garrison" grade. Is field the one to get? I have access to a compressor and spray gun and its something I've always wanted to try. Will the military paint go the sprayer all right? I'll probably get a couple gallons and do it up well. If a sprayer isn't a good idea I seen home depot has the sponge rollers like what you get with herculiner.
Now is it just the carc paint that will stain, or is it all military paint?
Which is better hammerite smooth for 50 a gal or military for 30 a gal? I'm thinking military but I'm not sure. Thanks for all the input!



 
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This may be or may not be a n alternative, I want my Jeep mostly for hunting and fishing. My thoughts ran to a great camo job that would help my Jeep blend and my wife says she will never ever drive a camo'ed vehicle. I found a product called "Camo Clad" at a local outdoors shop it is going on my CJ-6 as we speak. It comes in 4'x5' sheets of almost any camo you can think of(realtree breakup, shadow grass,forest floor, ect.) its basicly a giant thick decal you can cover your whole Jeep with. It also comes in removable and non-removable if you dont want it permanent. About $250 is doing my whole CJ-6 with allitle extra for repairs. Just another alternative


Jim

The first time I fell in the mud...
I realized I belonged there.
 
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Most military vehicle restorations use MV paint from two companies; Aervoe and Gilespie. Most military paints are flat to avoid glare to they are harder to spot. (24087 is the only semi-gloss that I an aware of - BTW the first 2 digits of miitry paint gives you the shine rating. 24 is semi gloss through 34 which is very flat.)

Flat paint looks flat b/c it has a jaged surface to reflect light at different angles. As a result, it is often porus,scratches easily, stains, and does not last as long as shiny paint. Shiny paint has less surface area and the paint particles are smoother on the surface - so has less area to wear.

Flat paints, especially mil spec paints, are flat b/c of heavy solids in the paint to allow fast build up. Aggitate the paint can as you spray to prevent the solids from accumulating on the bottom of the paint can.

Mil. spec. paints are not as durable as civilian paints. For durability, get the mil. spec color in PPG or Dupont ect. The military repaints its equipment often.

Finally, CARC paint. CARC paint is HIGHLY TOXIC - even when dry!!! Beware sanding it. CARC paint is far more dangerous than other paint. Finally, beware buying surplus CARC paint. It has a limited shelf life and turns to goo.

Shipping, you will get a $10 hazardous paint shipping charge for the order in the mail/UPS. The charge is for the total order and not per paint can (gallon)!! A few dishonest paint dealers will try to charge the $10 hazardous shipping fee per gallon. BTW: there is no hazardous shipping charge for arerosal cans.

I used Gilespie paint and liked it. I used it with both zythol (sp?) and NAPA brand synthetic reducer. The NAPA reducer makes the paint more durable. Remember using a reducer in a warmer temp range than recomended will result in either the paint drying before it hits the metal and/or makes the paint dry shiny.

Aeroval had a poor reputation in the past. I supposedly faded quickly. I do not know from experience. Rumor is they improved the paint to last longer. Contact www.bigelectric.com - the Dodge M37 Army Truck board, for more on the debate over whether Aeroval or Gilespie is better.

Some sources for mil. paint. ("A"-Aeroval, "G"-Gilespie)
Surplus City CALIF(818) 767-366 "A" at $29.95/gal.
Army Jeep Parts 215-788-6012 PA(George is a nice guy) "G" - $24/gal
Adirondack Jeep Parts NY 800-932-8020 "A"-$28/gal
Rapco TEXAS 940-872-2403 "G"-$24/gal
Alan R. Haage NJ 609-953-1003 "A" - $28/gal

Good Luck.
-Drew M.
 
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So can I go to Earl "paint over bird poop" Scheib or Maaco and get the $200 paint job special and get a desert tan flat paint job or would they laugh and say no can do? I think my TJ would look cool in desert sand flat with black trimmings.
Aaron

 

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I've only seen pictures of the Jeep I mentioned, but the guy said it was easy to work with. It would be a good choice it your body isn't
in perfect shape. I bought two cans of earth yellow spray paint from Surplus City just to check it out. I did a small patch on my
Willys and like the way it looks. I'll spray the whole thing with a gun and use the spray cans for touch up.

BHT
 
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