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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I continue to have a problem with the truck weaving a bit on the highway. It tries to follow any slight depression in the road. I've replaced: Drag link, Left inner tie rod end, Both outer tie rod ends, Ball joints, Wheel bearings, and this past weekend Radius arm bushings. It's actually gotten worse after the radius arm bushings were replaced. The old ones were really fried, split in two with pieces missing. Someone told me that you can loosen the nut on top of the steering box and turn the screw one way or the other and tighten the gear lash in the box. The shop manual just describes a method to center the gear with that screw. Does anyone know if the box can be tightened up with that screw?
 

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Loosening the lock nut and tightening the screw on the steering box will change gear lash, but this is more appropriate when there is "play" in your steering input.

Have you had an alignment shop check your caster angle??? The truck will "track" any line in the road if you don't have enough positive caster. This sounds more like the problem you describe.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I need to get a full alignment for sure. I want to make sure it is "alignable" before I take it in. I set the toe with a cheap guage I got from J.C Whitney. The Ingals adjusters are now set at the max adjustment to get the camber angle to 0. This doesn't leave any adjustment for caster. You're probably right on the caster angle idea. The new radius arm bushings would have changed that and this might explain why it got worse.

There is some play in the steering. It tracks pretty straight on level ground but you can move the wheel back and forth a bit, maybe 2" or so.

Thanks for the help!
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just went through almost identical maintenance, and my steering box is loose too (I'm going to replace it within a couple of weeks with an AGR unit).

You shouldn't have any problem getting it aligned, although your wheel center may be a little off if you tighten or swap the box after the alignment.
 

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AGR

I looked at them when mine finally got too bad to keep using, and they just didn't compare to a plain old reman with a lifetime warranty for about 1/3 what AGR's cost. Yeah, they appear to be really HD and cool-looking, but I'm paying for performance & warranty. I'm happy with my reman.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: AGR

hmmm...good feedback, Steve.

Around here in MI, I priced a NAPA reman at 179, I think the AGR units are about 240 or so...

I saw a couple of threads here related to the AGR vs. reman debate...guess I'll re-read and check my wallet.

Either way I'm going to miss the lazy-steer, its intimidating enough to keep other's from wanting to drive...
 
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