Welcome to the board, and to the world of Jeeping! You're in for a fun ride.

I never heard of Cutless hubs. Post a picture of them. They might be a relable of a more common brand that we'll recognize. (No digital camer? There's your Christmas present. You're going to need to post a lot of pictures.)

Yes, it did have a parking brake. My '64 had an L-shaped handle that came out from under the speedometer. You pulled it to engage the brake and turned it 90 degrees clockwise and pushed it back to release. Later Jeeps got a generic foot pedal on the left with a little T-handle release, but I don't think those started until a major changeover in '75 or '76.

 

Thanks, I'll get a Pic on the way asap.(probably saturday night) Where is the best place to find a stock parking break like the one you discribed on yours?
JD

 

Cutlass hubs are old school! I was looking at an FC170 a few years back that had them. Parts will be hard to find as I believe that they are no longer made. Best off replacing them with new hubs.

Here is some info:

http://www.willystech.com/wt/Hubs/cutlass/cutlasshub.htm

 

that was what I was looking for!!!
I tried to link to the breakdown views but I guess even the web site is too old. However the removal, inspection and installation procedures will help alot. I have had one of them apart and the nylon part is good and in one peace. The ones on my cj5 look like a cross between the 2 layout diagrams at the bottom of the web page. I don't need a tool to lock and unlock like the one on top, but the body is the same. I have a knob like the one on the bottom. The inside looks pretty sturdy and simple I just need to replace the seals probably, and that will be easier now. The one on the driver side seems to be out of sync with the 2 and 4 wheel markings, but I think I can figger that out as well. Thanks for the link!
JD

 

Welcome Newguy....it helps to put more info in your profile....like what part of the country you are in....you never know, there might be a fellow jeeper right around the corner....

As for parts...I think Krage Motorsports is the best source for stock CJ parts.

And kudos to your wife....she sounds like a keeper....and I'm a firm believer in keeping the wife part of the jeep experience....it makes it easier to get additional retrofit funds approved.

 

no good

the hubs that u have on thar r no longer made they went out in the early 90s and they were junk then get a set of warn hubs and be dun with it they will be the best choice for what u r running congrats on getting your firs jeep and good luck with the resto .

 

Welcome, and let me say,
I have a '73 CJ-5 with Factory V-8 engine and every possible problem you can think of!

Your Jeep did NOT have an 'Emergency' brake.
However, it DID have a 'Parking Brake'.
Pedal on the left kick panel like most cars of the period had.

The hubs need help!
Your jeep had Warn 'Select-O-Matic' hubs from the factory.
They were lockouts that would allow the wheels to 'Free Wheel' via a 'Sprague' or 'Roller' type clutch inside the hub.
Or could be disengaged all together.
The problem with that design was the 'Cage' for the rollers breaking up.
They are long since out of production also.

It's a very simple process to convert over to Warn Premium type lockout or a Mile Marker Lockout Hub.
I put on two sets of the Warn Premium hubs this sumer, and although a little short on instructions, they can be done in about 30 minutes a side, including cleaning up the hubs and cleaning out the bolt holes.

Be advised, you factory hubs didn't have the usual 2 spindle nut sets you are used to seeing...
You may need to get a couple of spindle nuts (around $6 for bolt nuts and both washers) and you will need a 2-1/16" socket ($8 sockets) to tighten the nuts properly.

If you need any help, let us know, or contact me directly and I'll take pictures so you can see what I'm talking about.

 

Thanks for the advice. I think I'm going to get a set of the Warn Premium hubs. I talked to Warn today and got a part number of 9062. Is this the same as you installed on yours?the cutless are both still in good condition, but like you have said, Thay aint no spare parts!Thanks
I'll be back later, and hopefully have some pics. Tomorrows opening day of rifle season here in west Tennessee.so it might get put off a little while.
JD:smirk:

 

Well Santa done brought me some new Warn Premium hubs for Christmas. installation looks pretty straight forward(famous last words) but if any one has any suggestions, I'm all ears!
JD

 

Advise from me could cause you to drink!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Make sure you do not add any grease to the new lockouts!!!!!

There a snap to install tools 9/16 socket snap ring pliers and a allen wrench!!!!!


Tim

 

Thats what I was thinkin but the instructions say "seperate cap assembly from bodyt assembly" and I ain't figgered that part out yet and thats just step one! I'll go ahead and start drinkin now.
JD

 

Never mind, I just figgered it out. There was ONE allen bolt holding it together!

 

Hey JD.......

..... how long do you think you'll be the "new guy"....


.....and when you decide you are no longer the new guy, and you get a user name, how will we know who you are??


..... just something useless to think about in between jeep issues......

 

I been thinkin about that too, but I don't see anyway to change my user name!
Didn't think about that when I joined.:wall: :laugh:
JD
Maybe CJJD

 

Moderators used to be able to assign custom titles, so that you could sign up under a new name and we would put "Formerly newguyJD" under the new name. In the last round of software upgrades that feature got broken. I've asked again that it be fixed. Maybe that will happen soon.

 

That would be nice!:beertoast:

 

OK... Back to work!
I went to install my new Warn locking hubs and when I started putting the old bolts back in(as the instructions said)with the new washers supplied in the kit,and I found out they were about 1.398 inches too long. :givemebeer: My question, is can I go to the parts store and buy new bolts about 1.5 inches shorter (if they have bolts) or do I have to find another route? Are these special bolts?
JD

 

Grade 5 bolts will do fine.

 

Yep thats what was in it, so I went ahead and bought some more just like them only shorter. I was waiting on a reply before I installed them so thanks:grin: When I'm done, I'll have a set of cuttless hubs that still work if any one is interested, I'll sell them probably reasonably. but if you need them I'll probably ask alot.
JD

 

OK So I installed the new Warn Locking hubs that santa brung me, and the passenger side works great. spin it and nothing turns but the wheel. lock it spin it and the whole drive train turns. unlock it and only the wheel turns.
On the drivers side, the first time I spun it, just the wheel would spin. then I locked it and the wheel and the axel would spin, but the drive train from the front diff to the tranny didn't spin. I unlocked it and still have the same parts spinning.
I haven't tried backing up or driveing the jeep yet. Is something wrong?
JD

 

Do you have both wheels off the ground?

I don't think your front diff has a locker, so nothing is wrong. It's just letting the wheel with the least resistance spin.

If both wheels are off the ground, jam a brick under the other side, then the side you are testing should spin the drivetrain.

 

Nope I did one side at a time. Theres no locker that I'm aware of. so if its locked on the driver side, shouldn't it spin all the way back to the tranny? Also I havn't tried this yet. If I lock it, should I be able to turn the front drive shaft by hand? with just the drivers side locked.
JD

 

Lock both hubs. Put the transmission in any gear. Put the transfer case in 4 high. Turn either front wheel and the other one should turn the opposite direction.

 

I just did that and every thing seems to be functioning properly. I just had to prove it to myself.It's time for beer!:givemebeer: Now I can get to work on those Christmas presents for my kids!give the wife a break maybe.
JD

 

How do you know if both hubs are unlocking?

 

If you have open knuckles, you can look behind the tire to see if the shaft is spinning. Also, using studs instead of bolts is a much better idea. After a couple times tightening those bolts, think of changing to studs.