I beat the $hit out of my Lock Rites and no problems.

I'm boycotting sigs. If ya wanna see what I have, check my profile.

 

Go with a Lock-Rite it is the best deal for the money. The only difference between a full locker is it is stronger. I have not seen anyone break one. Off course there will be a few people on here that have but I think the majority hasn't.

Jeeps are Built not Bought!
Chrome don't get ya Home!
Go Big OR Go Home!!

 

I ran a lockrite in my CJ5 for awhile, never had a problem, the running gear made it into my CJ7 and the lockrite still hasn't had a problem yet.

pbm
There is a difference between being Educated and Intelligent!

 

Ran a lockrite for years, and it only broke once the 2 pce axles hub spun. The breakage to the locker was easily fixed, the pins sheared and it wouldn't unlock. They are good bang (oops did I mention the bang) for the buck.


84 CJ7, 258, HEI, M/C 2100 carb, 5 inch lift, RS9000's, 33x12.5 BFG M/T's, 4.56's and Detroit softlocker, full cage & belts, Xenon flares, Dana 44 rear, GM dual diaphragm brake booster

 

another thing to consider, lock rites have a 2 year warranty.. I was gonna get a detroit E Z locker for my front axle, just thought the name was more reputable, but i was swayed by the double warranty.. As long as you install them correctly,(which isn't hard) youre good to go /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

 

sheared the pins once. only problem i've had with the lock right itself. just replaced mine w/a detroit to get rid of the weak(shattered) carrier. i would recomend getting the powertrax cross shaft also, as it's a lot stronger than the stocker. if you're not locked up in back yet, i would do that first. makes way more of a difference. if money is an issue(when isn't it?), weld up the rear. if you're not an excellent welder, have someone who is do it. i've thrashed on mine for years now, and haven't broken it. a good weld is the key.

if it aint broke, the pedal is on the right

 

Wait a minute - do you have a locker in the rear yet? From the sounds of your post, I wouldn't think so. If you don't have a locker in the rear, one in the front will be like a one legged cat trying to bury turds on a frozen pond - useless.

I'm boycotting sigs. If ya wanna see what I have, check my profile.

 

I always hear every one saying anyone who doesn't have alocker in the rear, and wants one in the freont is an idiot. What is so bad about that? Maybe he doesn't want to have the effects of the locker on the pavement(he can just unlock his hubs)? Maybe he has trac lock in the rear.

Let me know what you think. I have a 78 CJ5 and am looking to buy a locker, and trying to decide wether front or rear. I do more in the mud then the rocks, and I have trac lock in the rear, which always works in the mud, almost always locks up on the rocks. I see it as the chance to have 3 wheels spinning with it in the rear, or the chance to have all four spinning with it in the front.

what do you think
suggestions are great
thanks
tony

79 CJ 5, 258, dana 30, model 20, T18, dana 20, 2.5" rancho lift, 1" shackles

 

If you're doing trails and rocks, I'd say definatley in the back,,. For mud, I don't know, mine don't really make a difference in mud. ( I had trac lok in the back before) But you'll notice a HUGE difference the first time you lift a back tire if you got a locker back there! /wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif

 

Well, I don't have one in the rear yet. I'm waiting to do it right; one piece axles and locker at same time. I was wanting to do the front first for ease of expense, and for the locker on pavement issue. I'm usually in Mud or Sand Terrain, and don't do the rocks much.

So, Am I doing them in the right order?



It's a Jeep Thing! Get One, You'll figure it out!

 

I never said that anyone's an idiot. From the physics standpoint, you're better off with the locker in the rear. That's where the weight is transferred during hill climbing, and also from hard launches in mud or sand.

As far as streetability goes, the Lock-Rite is pretty forgiving. Some bangs and pops, and a ratcheting noise around corners, but nothing as severe as a spool or welded spiders.

I've seen people with only a locked front, they had more trouble than someone with the same setup and locked in the rear on the trail.

If you want the ultimate, and $$$ is no problem, then get an ARB or Ox-Locker. Fully switchable from open to locked.


I'm boycotting sigs. If ya wanna see what I have, check my profile.

 

You said you had trac lock, correct? You put a lock right in the front?
If so then when you put a lock right in the front did how much did it help? Did you say you dont do mud, Have you done any mud running with it in, is it much better then before?
I am starting to get that what should I do feeling, at least I didn't already order it.
one more thing, did only haveing a locker in the front have any negative aspects ?

Thanks
tony

79 CJ 5, 258, dana 30, model 20, T18, dana 20, 2.5" rancho lift, 1" shackles

 

Since this topic is up . Got a question for some of you that use your Jeeps in trail only situations . How come you just dont buy spools ? Instead of a Detroit ? And while we are discussing spools , whats wrong with just buying a mini-spool ? I seen them at the local parts shop and they were cheap !! I guess thats the sophisticated version of the Lincoln Locker ? /wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif .

Jeff /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif

 

AllLockedUp I wasn't directly refering to you, I just always hear NEVER IN THE FRONT WITH OUT ONE IN THE REAR, from many other people besides you. Sorry for teh misunderstanding.

I have also wondered about the spool, do people avoid them because it makes turning hard?

Also, If I replaced the clutch discs in my trac lock, would it be comparable to the Lock right. I dont think so just wondderin, exploring all options. I think I am going to go with a lock right in the rear.

thanks
tony

79 CJ 5, 258, dana 30, model 20, T18, dana 20, 2.5" rancho lift, 1" shackles

 

personally, i would rather run a welded rear end then a locked one on the street. sure, you get more tire wear, and noise when cornering, but you get that with a locker too. welded and spooled rears are predictable. you allways know what they are going to do. lockers kick in and out, causing rather unpredictable handling quirks at times. if you can afford a selectable locker, by all means go for it. otherwise, i'm still sold on the "poor man's spool"

if it aint broke, the pedal is on the right

 

I wouldn't use one in the rear, seems to take more of a beating back there. I've seen a couple break in the rear, never seen one break in the front. I'm running one in the front with a Detroit in the rear, had that setup for over 2 years with no problem. IMO, don't bother doing locker in front if you only hae a factory trash lock in the rear, those factory LSDs are set up too loose to be of any use, and if it has many miles on it it is totally useless. Locker much more useful in the rear if you only got money for one.

Brad
ORC Land Use Editor

and
http://home.off-road.com/~rockgarden

 

i have been using a lock-right in a d27 for a couple years, the last e months w/ 35x12.5 and knock on wood, i am still going strong.

gdm

 

Since a couple of guys asked about spools/mini spools, I'll chime in. I put a mini-spool from Summit in the Ford 9" rear end in my CJ. Never ran a locker or anything other than open diffs before so I can't compare it with anything else in this vehicle, but I don't have any street problems with it. Yes it squeals going around corners, and yes you have to take corners slower because it wants to push you ahead instead of turning, but once I got to the dirt, wow. I did the mini-spool simply because of cost, it was like $50 for everything. I thought if I broke stuff I would upgrade to 31- or 35-spline axles and a full spool anyway, but thus far (2+ years) the 28-spline stockers are holding up just fine. Hey the worst that happens if you put a mini-spool in is that you don't like it and pull it out and put the stock spiders back in.

Ken