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Ok I am trying to fix yet another jeep issue. About a year ago I installed rear disk breaks on my 80' CJ-7 with a 20 rear end. I was given several options when I bought my callipers. Use Cadilac callipers (over $100 per side), and replace all my parking break cables and foot lever, or use Monty Carlo calipers (less than $20.00 per side) and not have a parking break. Guess which route I went?

I love the 4 wheel disk breaks, but after backing my 2man bass boat down the boat ramp; I found that 1st gear wont keep my jeep from rolling down the ramp.

Will line locks work is so how hard and expensive are they to install, also what about a drive shaft michanical break? same question cost and ease of instalation?

Or any other ideas you fellow jeepers are using to keep the jeeps from rollin off?
 

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line locks are cheep. say around $140. SLE-25000 is the summit racing part number. SLP makes very good parts. they were a GM OEM supplier who made many parts for the late model SS and z28 camaros. something like that might work for you.

the other options are going to cost you more.

you might be able to rig some thing with late model GM brakes or Ford SUV brakes. they have disk rotors with the drum brake in side. but, that is more time and money.
 

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Drive shaft E-brake at the transfer case.
Disk or drum brake attached between the case 'U' joint yoke.
All those bolts around the output shaft make a great place to mount your E-brake backing plate.

I WOULD NOT use it for a parking brake,
but as an E-Brake it works fine.

Micro lock and hand actuated master cylinder make for a damn fine locking device.
Some people use a master cylinder and put the pedal where your E-brake pedal used to be... That looks pretty freaky with four pedals in the floor board though!
 

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[ QUOTE ]
I love the 4 wheel disk breaks, but after backing my 2man bass boat down the boat ramp; I found that 1st gear wont keep my jeep from rolling down the ramp.

[/ QUOTE ]

takin a chance by assuming a 2 man boat doesnt weigh a whole heck of a lot, so if i was you i wouldnt worry so much about the e-brake,however i would be very worried about the clutch.

my E-brake is a wheel chock i ganked from work, works flawlessly(as long as i park on an unlevel surface)
 

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If it rolls down the ramp in 4 low, rebuild the engine or fix the clutch. All four tires should skid on concrete before the engine turns over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok I like the some of the ideas, as for the boat...no it dosn't weigh more thatn 150#. teh trailer is a 4x8 trailer...all in all pretty light, (I can push it up a small incline called a driveway) as for rebuilding the cluch it is in good shape. The engine is the stock Iron duke, so even in 4low it doent take much to move the jeep. infact I have issues when I am removing bolts that connect directly to the crank you know the: flywheel, hermonic ballincer ect.
 

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heat those bolts up. MAPP gas torch for $40 should do the trick. don't be like me and just put a breaker bar on the fly wheel bolts, then round out a bolt head. think before you act...
 

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[ QUOTE ]
The engine is the stock Iron duke, so even in 4low it doent take much to move the jeep

[/ QUOTE ]

Is it worn out and low on compression? So far I haven't found a hill steep enough to keep the Jeep rolling if I just shut off the ignition. It might take six feet, but it will putter to a stop eventually.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
If it rolls down the ramp in 4 low, rebuild the engine or fix the clutch. All four tires should skid on concrete before the engine turns over.

[/ QUOTE ]

my first thought too!
 

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or just throw yourself a ball valve inline with your rear brakes.. you can get them at lowes or home depot.. get the good brass ones... they are about 8 bucks.. put it where you can get at it.. and there you go.. one line lock
 

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What psi are they rated at? Seems a little risky to be using the old hardware store ball valve for brakes... even the brass ones.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
What psi are they rated at? Seems a little risky to be using the old hardware store ball valve for brakes... even the brass ones.

[/ QUOTE ]

That's what I was thinking. It may work.....but....I sure wouldn't bet my, or someone elses life on it.
 

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No way you would find home plumbing hardware on my brakes!
 

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please dont use a brass valve thats rated for at best 300psi on any hydraulic application, if you want to put a valve in, at least go thru Parker Hydraulics(or another hyd supplier)....ya definately dont want a weak point in your brake lines, i cant quote numbers, but i recall the pressures generated in most brake systems going in excess of 2000psi, never mind what ya get in a panic stop!
 

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well for one.. you are not using the valve for breaking... all it has to do is hold the pressure for when you are sitting still.. i know its the same pressure.. but its not the same instance... and i am talking about the ones that are completely brass... ball and all.. and i would wager most jeep brake systems are between 800-1000 psi...
 

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[ QUOTE ]
well for one.. you are not using the valve for breaking...

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Very true, we would be using the valve for BRAKING!

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all it has to do is hold the pressure for when you are sitting still..

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Not true at all. You are only considering the possibility of leaking back past the ball which is not a problem in normal operation which would be the open position. Ok, so it's made out of brass. Yeah, the body may not explode under pressure but the problem is in the stem seal. The seal is not rated for the kind of pressures applied in automotive brake systems. It will probably leak all the time until it finally blows out at usually the most inopportune time.

Since JYG is ignoring me, somebody could tell him that it's MICO lock not micro.

I considered putting a valve in the brakes on my Jeep once. I even bought the valve from JC Whitney. It's a manual valve with a red mushroom head. You push it in to lock the brakes, the next time you apply the brakes, it releases automatically. The valve wasn't very expensive, I'd guess around $20 or I wouldn't have bought it only to let it set around for the last several years. With this non-remote actuated type you would have to run brake lines inside the Jeep to make it usable.
 

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The Jaymar valves ( I think that was the brand) from JC Whitney suck, or at least the one I had . If you rely on it to hold pressure for any time at all they leak past and the spring will release it suddenly.

Hydraulic ball valves are very different from the hardware store variety. Their stem seals are much tougher and most are rated above 3000psi . I used a pair of Stauff steel machined valves on mine, rated at 5000psi and one each for front and rear . They are available at: web page .
Haven't had a problem in 2yrs even with letting it sit overnight under pressure . One rear wheel cylinder is leaking a bit and that will allow the rear to lose pressure. The front works excellent and I've used them many times during winching . Just have to keep in mind that failure is possible with anything like this, never use it to hold the rig on a hill or any situation where it could suddenly move and hurt someone. I check them very often for any signs of leakage since it can affect daily operation of the brakes as well.
Sarge
 

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Well, yea I would be worried about the "hardware store" valve too But a simply valve will work but look for one that's pressure rated to your application. Check McMaster-Kerr catalog or other industral supply. I think swagelock makes valves that would work. If you see deliever trucks in the wreaking yard, check them for eleclic line locks. Seen them on bread/pastery trucks, not sure about UPS trucks.
But a simple line lock from summit or jegs will come with a warning light and can be relied on. The racing boys have no problem with them and the cost isn't that prohibitive.

Good luck
 

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I havea set of Jegs line-locks and they do work very well..
I dont have my setup all wired in yet but i did test them.
And if you know how to do break lines and such then there an easy install. and only need 12v power to work

I will get some pics for ya..
 

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Hey, Mach
Are you installing the line locks on the rear only or both front & rear?
Anyone else done this?

Rockin On
 
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