[Guest]

I'm looking for ideas on getting more traction from my rear (and maybe front too) of my CJ-2A. It has the original drivetrain except for a Chevy 283. Does anyone make a locker of some type for these old axles? I believe I read somewhere the rear is a Dana 41. Should I just weld 'er up? The Jeep will be used mainly on trails and I plan to drive her on the road some in the summer. Just playing around in the yard so far, I can tell it doesn't take much flex to lift a tire, and then I'm done. Part of the problem is the skinny military tires on inset wheels. They rub the rear inner fenders (the vertical part) when flexing. I plan to go to 31" mud-terrain type radials on wheels with just enough offset to prevent this contact. What's a good source of info on these old Jeeps? I'll stop rambling now. Thanks.

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
'78 K20 driver
'79 K10 mud racer
'48 CJ-2A trail Jeep

 

[Guest]

Normally I'm dead set against welding the diff gears, all sorts of problems come to mind and have been mentioned here before. But, for a light weight trail machine, why not?

Brad (from the 4 Wheeling center of the universe, 4 corners USA)

 

[Dana]

I'm going to install 4 solenoid valves on my CJ5, for independent control of all four wheel brakes. If a wheel spins, I can simply brake that wheel (or any combination thereof). Kind of a "poor man's locker".

I mention it because it could be done to any axle, you don't have to worry 'bout whether it's available for your specific axle.

-Dana

Never vote for a politician who has to borrow a gun to go duck hunting.

 

[Guest]

You're right if the axles are original you should have a Dana 41 in the rear. You can tell by the shape of the pumpkin. The 41 looks lemon shaped compared to a 44. I can't seem to locate my catalog but I'm almost certaim powertrax makes lockrites for both the dana 41 and 25. However in my humble opinion lockrites are such pieces of dookie you may as well weld up the diffs and save the money and headache. As far as your flex goes there's not a lot you can do easily. if you have the time to disassemle your packs you can bevel the sides of each leaf and coat them with a grapite paint you'll reduce a lot of friction and if you leave the clamps loose when you put them back together you may be able to sneak another couple of inches. Don't forget to make sure your shocks are the proper length. Superlift makes a 2 1/2lift for flatfenders that fits surprisingly big tires since they don't move much. Aftermarket parts are pretty much non-existent for flatfenders but there are tons of places that sell restoration minded parts, my personal favorite is Willys Works in Tucson AZ, unfortunately I don't have their number handy. Hope I've been some help feel free to email if you need anything else, Happy Jeepin
Travis

 

[118]

Willys Works number is 520-888-5082. They've been very friendly and helpfull
every time I've called. Think there only open Tuesday thru Saturday.

C-Ya.....................kh

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the input, guys.

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
'78 K20 driver
'79 K10 mud racer
'48 CJ-2A trail Jeep

 

[Guest]

I though of something similar to the 4 solenoid valves, but I was only thinking of a rear locker. I thought about putting an e-brake on each rear wheel, and if one wheel lifted, set the brake for that wheel. I mentioned this to a friend of mine who said that would put too much stress on the diff. He's been turnin' wrenches longer than I have, so I didn't question it further. Is what he said true? I don't understand the internal workings of a differential to truly understand how an open diff works.... I see a can of worms coming on this one d8^)

 

[Guest]

You totally lock one side up, yes a whole lot of stress. But, a trick many people use with posi rears is once they hit the trail,
put the e-brake on very lightly. Unfools the fooled posi I guess you could say! /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

Brad (from the 4 Wheeling center of the universe, 4 corners USA)

 

[JEEPN]

I did this to my Scrambler, worked very well. I used 2 lift style E-brakes from some cars, left the E-brake lines to the axles alone, and used turnbuckles to connect the two. The turnbuckles allowed me to fine tune each brake separately. You have to have them REALLY tight when using them forward, backwards is no problem. I used them for about a year, but in mud they're no good.

JEEPN
'97 TJ Sport
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled!
'71 Commando SC-1
'51 CJ-3A
'47 CJ-2A