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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I AM LOOKING INTO A 2" SPRING LIFT, I ALSO REALIZED THAT THE RUBBER BODY MOUNTS I HAVE ARE SHOT!!!!!! I WAS THINKING OF ADDING DAYSTARS 1" BODY MOUNTS. WHAT ELSE DO I NEED TO DO? REPLACE, ADD? CAN I DO THIS MYSELF, I'M AN AVERAGE BACKYARD MECHANIC. SUGGESTIONS FOR DIFFERENT WAYS TO LIFT WOULD BE GREAT, I'M FNG TO ALL THIS BUT VERY INTERESTED IN MAKING MY 8 AND UNFORGETTABLE ONE! THANKS.

 

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Yes, you can do it yourself...best if you have air tools. Most of your 'install' time will be spent removing the old suspension. Here's a few tips:
1) Buy new shackles...I prefer greasables
2) Examine your shackle hangers and replace if they don't look so hot
3) Buy quality shocks...most of what's packaged in the typical kits is marginal at best.
4) Don't tighten the shackle bolts until the Jeep is back on the ground and don't over-tighten them.
5) Start spraying everything about a week in advance with P'Blaster or a similar good penetrant...WD-40 need not apply, it's about as useful as bong water.
6) Use anti-sieze when you assemble the new suspension.
7) Double check that you tightened everything before you take it for a test drive.
8) Get it aligned afterwards.


 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A 2" spring lift is going to be pretty easy. You will want new shocks to match up. You'll have to put jackstands under the frame & you'll need a torque wrench (borrow one if you don't have one) when you bolt everything else back up. 1/2" drive sockets are going to make things a lot easier than 3/8" drive, and a long "breaker" bar will come in handy. Your kit may include shims for the rear axle, although I don't know how necessary they'd be in a CJ8. I used 'em for my 5. 'Bout the only potential problem is you MIGHT stretch your brake lines a bit depending on how much slack is there. Mine were okay, but some guys have had to deal with this. You can definitely make this swap yourself if you've turned a wrench at all. If you change your own oil & rotate your own tires, you'll be able to handle this.

As to the body mounts, as long as they don't visibly lift the vehicle, you'll have no problem. Otherwise, you may need to adjust your shifter angles, radiator height, and possibly a couple of other things that escape my mind right now - didn't do a body lift, so I'm trying to remember some other Jeeps with 'em.

TEX

/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif Got Mud?
G.U.M.B.O. Mud Racing
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You will also need at least 2 jackstands, a hi-lift jack (preferably 2), and a scissors or hydraulic jack will also come in handy.
You will use the stands and hydraulic for the suspension lift, the hi-lifts for the body lift, along with a 2x4 under the head of each jack.
And by all means follow Jeepskates suggestion to use anti-seize, I almost had to cut out my big end spring bolts last time I replaced
my springs.

Brad (from the 4 Wheeling center of the universe, 4 corners USA)
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm not a mechanic and don't know what anti-seize is- explain for me please? Thanks.

 

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Anti sieze is the most wonderfull thing to have on threads that would have rusted solid if it had not been applied. It is also the nastiest silver grease that gets on absolutly everything you touch! Seriously though...it is made by Permatex, it's name IS "Anti-Sieze". It comes in small tubes or (the prefered container) a medium or large silver plastic jar with a brush in the lid. Any auto parts store guy should know what this is (if he doesent, run out of there as fast as you can!) just ask for it! Hope this helps, and good luck cleaning it off your jeans!/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

Mike H.
1983 CJ-7 Laredo
1999 Dakota 4x4
/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gifo[[[[o
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Not only on the threads in this instance. The problem I had was the sleeve inside the bushings decided to become part of the bolt thru rust. Needless to say I put anti-seize on the whole bolt!

Brad (from the 4 Wheeling center of the universe, 4 corners USA)
 
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