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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I killed the battery my Jeep came with. I bought another. Killed that and got it replaced for free under warrenty. Now I killed that one and am hoping they give me a new free one because it's still under warrenty. This is dead battery number three in about two years. The first time I assumed I killed the battery by overcharging it (gell cell type). The second I don't remember what happened but they told me I had a dead cell. This time the key was left in the run position and the battery died. Maybe five days later I jumped it, took it for a short drive and then disconnected the battery. Three weeks or so later I tried to start it. No go. Tried to jump it. No go. Took it to the station to have it charged and tested. They say it's no good. Somewhere between battery two and three I replaced the alternator.

So the question is are these dead batteries due to my mistreatment, defects, or a charging problem of some type? Or a combination? If it is due to a charging problem, why does it take so long to kill a battery? If it is a charging problem, which I fear, how do I go about diagnosing it? Where do I start? I can't work on it now but I would like to know what to do when I get the chance. So if you are still with me after that lengthy post, thank you. And another thank you if you can offer any advice or insight.
 

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What is the make and model battery, that would help!
 

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[ QUOTE ]
This time the key was left in the run position and the battery died. Maybe five days later I jumped it, took it for a short drive and then disconnected the battery.

[/ QUOTE ]

Can't say about the 1st two but it sounds like the 3rd was not sufficiently charged. With the key left in the on position for 5 days will most cases drain a battery and if you jump it and drive it a short time you just give it a surface charge. The battery will need to be charged on a charger. When you take a battery in for testing and the battery is so low that it gives no residual energy the person checking the battery should try to charge it.

Some times the place you take the battery for test will pass on the charge up and just tell you the battery is dead to get you out of the store, happens more than not.

You can test a drain on your battery by turning key off pull the positive lead off the battery and then place a VOM from the positive post and the other on the batt cable. Should there be a drain you will be able to measure it on the meter.

You can also take it to an Auto Zone or some other parts house and they can do a charging system test in just a few minutes and tell you what is wrong if anything.
 

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If the battery was from WallyWorld, take it back and get a refund... NOT AN EXCHANGE! I have had the worst luck w/ WalMart batteries... thankfully, they're usually not to big a PITA to return.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I personally will not buy a battery from Autozone, Pep Boys or WallyWorthless.

Besides my Optima Gell Cell, I get mine from Costco. Very highly rated.

Batteries is one of those funny things...top of the line does not cost much more, but will last a lot longer....I consider it cheap insurance. I don't want to worry about my wife getting stranded somewhere if she leaves the lights on for 30 minutes....in the case of the Costco battery...left them on for an hour and it still started up fine. 20 min on the old battery would kill it....and it was only 2 years old.....and from Kragens....
 

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I ran across one of these today. I need to get a new battery for my boat and was pricing them. Seems interesting and may put one in the Jeep since it does sit weeks at a time.

http://www.prioritystart.com/

Hey John - I'll check out Costco and see what they have for marine batteries - didn't think of that. Christine is usually there twice a week for stuff around the house.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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What is the make and model battery, that would help!

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The battery is an Exide Orbital.

I got it from NAPA. Today's news is that the guy from NAPA charged and tested it and said it was good. I even saw the tester display good. I checked it at home and it registers 10 volts on my hand held meter. I am inclined to believe that GP'n was correct about the battery not being sufficiently charged. I am however still suspicious of NAPA because they test it and if it fails they have to replace it. I will test for the drain, that is a great suggestion. I think there should be a tiny drain from the CD player, that is all. Is there any way to test the charging system or anything else that could ruin batteries? Thanks for the replies.
 

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These batteries are AGM (activated glass mat) type.
The round cells have produced the nickname 'Jelly Roll' batteries.

If you overcharge a gell cell battery, or discharge it quickly it will release gas bubbles from the plates.
These bubbles have no where to go as they are suspended in gell and can't escape.
That effectively creates a dead spot on the plates that can't convert chemical energy to electrical energy or vice-versa...

Jelly Roll batteries have very thin plates with an electrolite activated glass mat inbetween.
The very thin plates are a real pain in the a$$ to keep connected to one another or to keep the connections between cells.
One manufacturer gets nearly 50% back as warranty. (and you wondered why they were so expensive... got to pay for those mistakes!)

They also have the trapped bubble problem.
When I had the battery & engine electrics buisness, I used to heat them to liquify the gell and allow the bubbles to escape, but that only worked about 1/3 of the time...

Deeply discharged batteries (like leaving the lights on for five days...)
will be nearly all bubbles next to the plates, making them useless.
 

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10 volts is not fully charged tho it may be enough to start the motor....i'd test for a drain and assuming there is none, start it up and test across your battery posts--i usually get about 14-15 volts with motor running(charging) and you should get right around 12 volts with motor off
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
[ QUOTE ]
Deeply discharged batteries (like leaving the lights on for five days...)
will be nearly all bubbles next to the plates, making them useless.

[/ QUOTE ]

So does this mean you think my battery is likely fried? Even though it tested okay at NAPA? Is the store screwing me? I don't really understand because I thought gel cell batteries were supposed to deal with being discharged and recharged better than conventional batteries? I am just a little worried about this because I move out of state soon and don't want to have to pay for a battery if it should have been under warranty. Thanks for the continued input.
 
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