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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The situation is that i have a HD D44 and a D60 out of a '76 J20 3/4 P/U( 73"s wide from side to side) . Im going to use them in my 88 YJ b/c i have a 401 and need the stronger axles. Well I 'think' Im going SOA with them and was wondering whether i should keep them stock for the sake of availablilty and
cheapness of parts OR cut them down to a little wider then stock width. I dont have much cash and wont for another 5-6 years as it being that
i am starting college next year so i want to keep them stock and get 5-6" offset wheels but i dunno what this will look like. I want some
thing that will be balnaced but doesnt look like sh!t. Any opnions are apreciated.
thanks for your time
Dustin

JeepChild
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
73" is an awful lot to try and makeup in wheel offset. If it were the 65" axles, I'd say go for it. I cut my housings down to the stock 60" and used 15x10 wheels with a 4" back spacing with 35x12.50 tires and they still stuck out past the body about 7". Good luck, Steve

Mopar360yj
87yj+20,74CHR.030360,SOA,35BFGATs,46RH,241DHD,
D60-44-4.10
 

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Hey Dustin,

I think youd be better off with a set of dana 44s from a narrow track cherokee, or a grand wag, they would be almost perfect for your already pretty wide Yj...

there is a Narrow track cherokee here at Warfords salvage, I dont know if the axles are still there though..

ozarkjeep
1977 CJ5 looking for a Hard top near NW Arkansas!
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
One thing you had better measure out is the distance from the center of the short side spring mount (which is built partly into the casting) and the short side wheel mount flange on the rotor (call this X). Now measure from the center of the short side spring mount to the wheel mount flange on the long side (call this Y). Now go out to your jeep and measure X and Y from the center of your passenger side spring. My guess is that you will find X to be a little long but tolerable, and that Y will stick way the heck out there. The reason for measuring from the short side spring mount is because it's the one thing you can't move. I just finished narrowing the housing on a 44 out of an old full size Dodge, I cut 2" off the short side and 9" off the other to get my axle down to an overall 58" for a CJ. In your application you may be able to get away with cutting only one side (I just wanted to tuck my tires in a little closer to stock). BTW, I assume you have swapped to a 20 or 300 T-case in order to get your front output on the passenger side, otherwise yer playin' with the wrong front axle.

"My other car is a BULLDOZER"
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Utahjeeper brought up some very relevant points. I think one thing you are off on is your measurement. Did you measure the entire assembly from hub to hub or with the wheels on? If so, it isn't the standard way of measuring. You should be measuring from wheel mounting flange to wheel mounting flange. The typical width for those axles are about 65 to 67" wide depending on several things, but I don't believe there are any wider than that. I could be wrong here(Lord knows it's a pretty regualr occurance/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif), but when I was researching swaps this is what I found.

One thing to remember with the X and Y measurements is that they aren't that big a deal if you are willing to do a little fabrication. Just move your spring mount hangers outboard of the frame. If done correctly they are every bit as strong as mounting them directly under the frame.

Now, if you're asking which is better for the trail, it really depends on the trail. In some situation width is better in others, it really hurts you. That is something you can only decide by what your priorities are and what type of trails you run. Expect the tires to hang out of the body about 10 inches on each side if you go with the full width axles. IMO, it looks kinda weird especially if you aren't running at least a 14.5" wide and at least 35" tall tire, but I have to admit that around here it's very functional. Just my 2 cents. HTH,
Sean
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Dustin,

Just for info, if you want the front driveshaft on the drivers side, the 80 and up grand wagoneers were also on the drivers side. When I narrowed my d44 from an 82 grand wagoneer, I cut about 1 1/2" from the drivers side and 4 1/2" from the long side in order for spring pad to line up with my wrangler springs.
Steve

Mopar360yj
87yj+20,74CHR.030360,SOA,35BFGATs,46RH,241DHD,
D60-44-4.10
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok ok... Let me fill you guys in on some info. I measured from the very end to very end on the rear D60. From wheel flange to wheel
flange to wheel flange it looks like about 68"s.... Ok i got the info on the backspacing BUT i already know what i can and cant swap
in. I know that the GW had drivers drop and all that ( ive sold 3 sets of those axles). I had previously planned to use a D44 and a M20
for what Im doing but got a good deal on these axles and sold the others. And yes this is a Drivers drop... Im not hallucinating, its a D44
just like the GW BUT it has chevy 3/4 ton brakes on it b/c it was in a J20. They are both 35 spline axles and the rear is a FF not a
semi. I think these axles would be best for this b/c I will eventually be pushin 400 hp with 35" tires. What would narrowing them
all involve? What am i lookin at for a price? My idea is that i want to get more stability but still have it narrow enough to follow other
jeeps. So i would want to narrow them some but not all the way back to YJ width. Its all depanding on cash though. If i can find a
buddy that will do it cheap (hint hint to anyone that does this :eek:)) I would go that route. Im not even sure what YJ width is now? I was
thinking 63 or 64??? Thanks again.
Dustin

JeepChild
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I do beleive that all of the 6 lug GW front axles used the same rotor as the chevy. Yj axle width is aprox. 60-601/2". As for narrowing the front axle, its very simple, cut off the desired amount and cut the old tubes from inside the knuckle with a sawzall and then slide the knuckles on over the existing tubes, set your caster and weld. I set mine that way, went to get it all aligned and my caster setting was less than 1/2 of a degree off from one side to the other, closer than some from the factory. As for the rear axle, there are several ways to cut a housing and either use your existing ends or install new ends. The proper way is to use an alignment bar and get it all straight. Us backyard poor folks just cut off the ends and weld them back on after cutting the desired amount from the tubes(that ought to get some people rialed). You just have to make sure EVERYTHING is straight and plum and know how to weld a butt joint so it will hold. I would put any housing I had done this way up against anyone elses home grown method to resist breakage. If your using a full floater thats probably the only way they can be cut. If you look at most housings done by profes, they have the ends or tubes turned down some so that one goes slightly inside the other which would make them stronger, unfortunatly we all don't have access to those methods. Or you could just send it all to Moser Eng. and have them do it. Hope this helps, Steve

Mopar360yj
87yj+20,74CHR.030360,SOA,35BFGATs,46RH,241DHD,
D60-44-4.10
 
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