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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I heard I can use Auto Trans fluid to clean the combustion chamber of my 258. How is this done? Do I pour it into the carb through the PCV port, or can I just put the fluid in a container and let the carb suck it out through the PCV hose at its own pace? Does it have to be done while driving the vehicle? I never heard of this, so I'm kinda leary of the whole thing. I am running a Weber + HEI hookup.

Doug88YJ
God Bless Conservative America
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Doug,

Why do you want to "clean" your cylinders?

How many miles on your 258?

Depending on your mileage I dont know if you want to clean the carbon from your cylinders/valves???

That which does not kill me only makes me stronger (or dumber).
 

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I thougth I was the only one who did this. but it was many moons ago before fuel injections. We did this to clean the carbon from the head and valve area. It will smoke like a bug machine. I alway just poured down the carb throat while running. make sure you turning some RPM before pouring.

brownbagg
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Don't pour too much or else *bang*. The ATF can't compress and breaks the carbon up but can break the head if you use too much. Water or ATF will work. Old water injection systems did the same thing but slowly over a period of time. You could suck it into the engine through a vacuum line too like you mentioned. I used to work at a shop that sold these kits that had about a pint of this blue liquid that you let get sucked in through what looked like fish tank air line. I just use an old simple green spray bottle with ATF in it. It will, like stated in the previous post, smoke really bad for 10 or 15 minutes.
Aaron

 

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I know I'm going to take a lot of heat for this...

DON'T DO IT!!!
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There will be no more carbon buildup in the combustion chamber than the thermal expansion and contraction will allow.
The carbon build up that hurts performance the most is on the backs of the valves, Intake valve in particular.
Pouring more oil to become carbon sludge build up on the backs of the valves won't help this situation in the least...
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There is nothing in your combustion chamber that a little WATER won't get loose...
Water turns to steam, and is not a killer of mufflers and catalytic converters...

If you use an old windshield washer tank, pump and spray nozzle pointed down the carb throat, it will work just like the expensive water injection systems, and can be done as you drive down the road with the engine at full temperature and operating speed...
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If you do the old dirt farmers trick of pouring any kind of oil down the carb throat, very bad things can happen...

First off, the air bleeds, vents, venturi outlets, and transfer slots were never meant to have oil poured on or in them...

Secondly, as the oil hits the back of the hot valves, it turns to coke, and then to hard carbon.
You are actually causing more of the problem you are trying to solve...

Third, you may pour too much, and hydraulic damage the piston, valves, rings, or rod bearings...

Fourth, you may plug your muffler, or you may kill your oxygen sensor or catalytic converter....
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Your exhaust system doesn't need oiling.
Keep the transmission oil in the transmission where it belongs.

"I Have The Body Of A God... Buddha"
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Teamrush speaks the truth. Water will remove everything you need to
remove in the motor. Just get the motor to normal operating temp so
the water vaporises and be sure not to dump in enough to hydraulic it.
I have tried the ATF trick on my CJ5 and my neighbors asked if I needed the fire department. It filled my yard and Jeep with some foul smelling smoke.
Gibby

~Someone's got to keep the bastards on their toes~
-HST
 

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ATF burns freely, won't require any revving of the motor (it doesn't inhibit the normal combustion process like water) and leaves no residue where it has been subjected to combustion. The hydo lock thingie is true.....I did that when using ATF and I left a partially filled container connected to the PCV hose sitting above the level of the motor......half a crank and that's all she wrote.....pulled the plugs....blew it out....good as new. Water will hydro lock a motor just a good as ATF. ATF will not damage your sensors or cat.......well let me restate that - I've done it quite a few times on O2 sensor and cat vehicles and have never not passed an emissions test because of either failing. Smoke screen is SUBSTANTIAL.

Water does a great job but tends to require a lot more throttle manipulation if you introduce it through the horn ......synchronizing the pour and the throttle.....too much pouring....compensated with too much throttle.....then rev too high ....let off the throttle.....now you're pouring too much and so on. Not too bad through the PCV hose...but requires a little effort to keep the thing running. If you do it under load at highway speeds it isn't a problem.

Just an alternate point of view

GeeAea

Figures don't lie ....... but liars sure do figure.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Best thing I have used for cleaning carbon deposits as well as any varnish is BG Chemical's 44K. It costs about $20 for an 11 ounce can which will treat two tanks (15 gal) and it is the best fuel additive you can buy. I am a total skeptic about additives and won't use any, but this is the stuff that the pros use. Not every auto store will carry it as BG is very picky about who sells it and how much they sell it for. This sounds like an ad for the stuff, but I truly believe in how good it works.

 
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