click here

 

another site here

 

He He -- both those articles are for a Chevrolet where the horn relay had a big wire running to it and it's close by the alternator. Jeepsters don't.

Obviously the large wire goes on the large terminal - that's the output.

Parts house - buy the plug for the side of the new alternator $3.00?

Red wire on that plug - run directly to the battery (+) terminal or the starter solenoid's big terminal. That's the "sense" wire that monitors the battery voltage. No, you cannot run that wire to just any 12 volt point if you want the battery to fuly charge.

The white or brown wire on that little plug - run it to the dash light. That's most likely a white wire that came out of the harness at the old external voltage regulator. To verify that's the right one, simply key on, touch that wire to ground - the light should come on. That wire operates the dash idiot light and provides the intitial "kick" to get the alternator charging.

Some alternators need more "kick" than others (the Jeepster's in dash bulb has a higher resistance than a GM's.) You'll know once you start it. When you start the engine the light stays on until you rev it up a little, then it goes out. If that happens it's saying the field current through the bulb isn't enough.
Simply solder 2 wires on a brake light bulb. Wire one side to the white wire - the other side to any ignition switched 12 volt source - A handy source is the ignition resistor on the firewall -- the left (drivers) side connection. You can tape the bulb right in the harness.

 

Your the man, Rich!...I tried

 

Here you go ... Step bt step

http://www.rockcrusher4x4.com/images/pdf/AlternatorConversion.pdf

 

Rock - you can buy that jumper at a parts house ($1.00?) -- the cheater jumper.
What that does is let the internal regulator monitor the output of the alternator, not the battery.
The result will be the battery doesn't get a full charge unless you drive it without stopping for a hundred miles or so - maybe even more.
The slight difference in voltage between the alternator output terminal and the battery itself is enough to make a huge difference.

Try it - use that method for awhile, then use a hydrometer to check the battery cells. You'll find they are undercharged all the time. (A hydrometer measuring specific gravity is the only way you can really tell if a battery is fully charged.) An undercharged battery won't last near as long as one that gets a full charge. And if a winch is involved, it won't run as long as it could.

And - when that "cheat" method is used, often people blame the alternator for not being big enough. So they install a hi amperage one, thinking that will cure it.
You often read about folks putting in a 120 amp alternator to feed a 30 amp load. A Jeepster's typically a little less than about 30 amps with EVERYTHING turned on all at once.

Did you know a battery can only accept a charging amperage of less than 30 amps without destroying itself? That's why automotive ammeters only go up to 30 amps. That's all it will ever see if it's hooked up properly.

So in short - it works, but not like it should. Lots of people do it that way, then wonder why it's not charging properly.

 

Wow! This site is amazing! Ask and you shall receive! Thanks alot you guys!

 

I did that writeup for a guy that had absolutely zero knowledge of anything mechanical or electrical. I kept it simple just for him. I think he was an engineer or maybe even a parts monkey at Kragens.

Mine is physically wired this way:

http://www.rockcrusher4x4.com/images/pdf/DelcoAlternatorWiring.PDF

 

Great Article Bob!

 

An engineer who had zero mechanical or electrical experience -- he never worked for me! Geez, and all the products we've designed and built. Guess I should have got a fourth grader to develop all our products at Black and Decker, Sunbeam, G.E., Windsor, and the businesses I built and sold. Anyway, I used basically the exact same setup as you described about 25 years ago except I added a fusible link (GM-type). I've since got a fourth grader to show me how to install the Centech harness and fuse panel in my non-stock Jeepsters. An old, retired Mechanical Engineer, Jim

 

You'd be surprised how many totally incompetent "Engineers" I've met over the years. You know the type ... "Duh, it looks good on paper!" or "It's gotta work, it's electric"

BTW, I didn't say the alternator swap concept was new ... I've done a few over the years. I just happen to principle of K.I.S.S. and I never assume anyone has the same skills and background as me.

Did I mention ... I too am an old retired mechanical/electrical engineer and metrologist.

 

Rock - That drawing is the right way! The sense line goes directly to the battery. I like the drawing too, simple, direct to the point.

The "cheat" way, or the internal "one wire" "self monitoring" system is kinda like asking a politician if he's honest -- right after he stole your wallet! We all know what that answer would be.