Off Roading Forums banner

Installed Durabak Liner Today....

1905 Views 7 Replies 1 Participant Last post by  **DONOTDELETE**
Well I finally finished prepping my Jeep and installed a Durabak liner today. For me the prep was extensive and took many hours. When I removed my roll bar to begin the prep process I found lots of rust. My tub is in fairly good condition but it had rusted out completely behind the roll bar plates. I ended up cutting the rust out with a torch and made patch plates with 18 guage galvanized steel. I started to weld the plates in but found that it was easier and cleaner to just rivet them in (I am not a good welder). Once I had made the repairs I sanded the tub completely with 60 grit sandpaper this took a couple of hours. I decided that this would be a good time to freshen up my pedals and shift levers so I ended up sanding and painting them also. Before I started the Durabak I caulked all of the seams and cracks in my tub with Silicone. I don't recommend doing this because it appears that Durabak doesn't like to stick to silicone, it ended up ok once I coated it a couple of times. After caulking all of the seams I masked everything off and wiped the tub out with Xylene. Once the xylene was dry I began brushing on the Durabak it is a good idea to have someone help, I brushed the edges and my wife rolled the flat areas. I must say I was a little disappointed after the first coat. The surface wasn't very even and the color(Mud Brown) didn't look exactly like the sample. We waited a couple of hours and returned to do the second coat. This coat goes much faster and we were able to even out the first coat. The color also improved and I must say I am fairly satisfied with the product. I have some left over and will probably add some additional coats to the floorboards and bed. The surface is fairly rough and has a shiny appearance. It appears to have adhered well to the surface of my tub and did a good job of hiding blemishes and imperfections that were very noticeable before. I would say that with all of my prep time I probably have about 18 hours in this project. This includes removing everything from my interior(stubborn bolts), grinding rust scales on roll bar, patching the rust holes, prepping for Durabak , and installation of Durabak. In my opinion this was a lot of work, but my tub looks signifigantly better and all the steps I took will ensure that it will not rust away in the next few years(at least not from the inside out). I will probably get a new tub if I ever need to so 18 hours to restore this one is not that big a deal. Please let me know if you have any questions. I can't believe that you would considering that this message turned out to be a 10000 word essay.

Happy Jeepin'

1985 CJ7 4.2L, T-176, 2.73 gears(too high), 2.5" lift, 31" tires, Durabak
See less See more
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
G
Any idea what would work better than silicone for the seams?

Any suggestions on application tools? If I read correctly, you said you used a brush and rollers. Did anyone work better than the other?

I'm half toying with the idea of applying mine using an undercoating gun.

LarryM
85CJ7 350 TBI/T19 5.11
I would contact Cote-L the maker of Durabak for a suitable seam sealer. The roller was faster but the brush produced a more consistent surface. We didn't use the roller at all after the first coat, only brushes. I don't know if I would spray it or not.

Good Luck.

1985 CJ7 4.2L, T-176, Dana 300, 2.73 gears(too high), 2.5" lift, 31" tires, Durabak
G
I too am considering this for my JEEP. How much did it take to line your tub? How hard is it after it dries? How thick is it? I think spraying it on would require alot of masking off to keep the overspray from getting on everything.
JEEPRZ

G
Check out Mizu's page for info on spraying Durabak....

http://personalweb.sierra.net/~coolmizu/durabak.html

LarryM
85CJ7 350 TBI/T19 5.11
1 gallon was enough to coat everything twice and the floorboards and bed 4 times. I also coated the bottom portion of my roll bar twice. It is fairly hard and rough once it has cured. I think it is probably an 1/8" thick with two coats and about 1/4" with 4 coats.

1985 CJ7 4.2L, T-176, Dana 300, 2.73 gears(too high), 2.5" lift, 31" tires, Durabak
G
The ONLY thing that sticks to silicone is more silicone and that with some qualifications. The seam sealer to use is a urethane sealant or caulk. I can't help you with a brand as I have access to and use the commercial building products and they work fine.
My $.02
sln


G
Por-15 makes a product that comes in a tube that can be used to seal seems and works as well as their brush on product. It is listed in their catalog and can be found on their website. Durabek also sticks to it very well.
sean

1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top