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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To all the 360 owners out there.......
I'm about to do a 360 swap in my 74 cj5. The engine of choice is an AMC 360. Now, what to do to it before I drop it in there??? I don't have an unlimited supply of cash here, but I'd like one that runs well, strong and sounds good doing it. I'm assuming edelbrock intake and carb, but what else? Are there any better alternatives to edelbrock? Also looking for a cam reccomendation. I figgure I can spend around $500 to make it a little better than the average engine. I've also heard about 360 heads on a 304. What about 401 heads on a 360? Don't know, just a thought... So if you are a 360 guy and have a pointer or two, please help me out. Thanks for the help. Its always appriciated.

ps. I'm not worried about the swap, what I need or how to do it, just what to do to the engine. No need to waste the time typing the wrong stuff.


 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
If you are looking for true performance from your 360 I would go with a set of heads from a 360 or 401 that was cast in 1969-1973. These heads had large valves and small combustion chambers, they were also the Higher torc adn HP engines built by AMC. If you use a set of these heads then you will need to buy an intake for that year model since the intake bolt holes are a little different. The setting of the valves will be different also, instead of wrenching then down to 20lb you will need to adjust them like a chevy(fully adjustable), you can also run screw in studs with roller rockers from a chevy as well. I built the motor in my wifes jeep this way and it is a real power house. I used the 1969 AMX 360 heads with screw in studs, crane roller rockers, Eldebrock performer cam, performer intake and carb, Taylor plug wires, Accel super coil, and headers. Just my 2 cents.

 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif I know he has been real busy at work keeping this country safe from the Chi-comm missiles that the dirtbag in the oval office sold to the chi-comms, but SLAMMER has a nice, built 360 that he recently put up. Whatever you do, BE SURE to get the oil enhancement setup installed while the block is bare./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
 

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The June 1998 edition of HOT ROD has a nice writeup on building a 500 hp 401 /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif

The writeup also mentions the oiling kit CJDave mentioned and how to drill the lifter valleys for increased oil flow, a problem in AMC V8s /wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif

I also have an old FOUR WHEELER bit on swapping AMC V8s for I6s... e-mail me if you would like more info on either article.

Jeeper2
'86 CJ7/258/HEI/TF999/Dana44
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Used to run a pretty hot 360 myself. Around .244 duration at .050 & .510 lift. Ran an Edelbrock Torker intake (not Torker II like they now make for SB Chevy). The motor probably shouldn't have lived, but it was balanced & routinely saw 7,500 RPM. Unfortunately, I got this motor 2nd hand, & don't have the exact specs. But, we've got a couple of guys around here running solid-cam 360's, 401's, & even one 390. And I remember a guy from KY who had a stroked 401 (something like 432 I want to say) that was B-A-D! The Torker is the hottest intake you can get, but you can build a strong motor with the Performer & a matched cam with a little head work.

TEX

/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif Got Mud?
G.U.M.B.O. Mud Racing
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif At the risk of sounding redundant.....BE SURE that you don't put that mill up without doing the oiling system enhancement thing. A TWO-YEAR OLD could have done a better job of laying out the oil system. Basically, there IS no oil crossover/equalizer between the oil galleries. To us old-time engine builders, something like that is BLASPHEMY. /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif I have a little AMC V8 booklet that I can send you a copy of that shows the oiling system upgrade....it isn't rocket science by any means, BUT....it cannot be added after the "build" is complete....it has to be done in the beginning./wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif

CJDave
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'd like a copy of that booklet because otherwise I'd have no idea what is going on with the oiling upgrade. Just email me with what it will cost and I'll send out a check right away. Thanks

 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So if I do the oiling upgrade, I take it this is basically to keep the engine from premature wear. Correct? Seems like you all think it is a good idea, so I'll go for it. As for the bolt on parts, I only know of edelbrock to make amc v8 intakes, so my choices are performer and torker. What one to use? I'm concerned with the high idle range of the torker. Says it is (3500-7500) and I'm worried I should get the performer (idle-5500). then I need a cam to match my choice. I'm hoping to start this over thanksgiving so I can drop it in my cj by xmas. So I'd like to get this figgured out really soon so I can order the parts and plan out what I have to do and in what order. (I'm a PSU student so I don't get a chance to work on this too often during the semester.) Thanks again for the responces.

 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The Torker is definitely made for those rumpety-rump cams (you know, the ones that sound like the drum intro to Van Halen's "Hot For Teacher"?) we use in mud racing. Really too hot for the street & definitely for trails. The Performer & a matching cam would be a nice upgrade over stock HP & still idle smooth enough to make it liveable.

TEX

/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif Got Mud?
G.U.M.B.O. Mud Racing
 
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