[Guest]

I have the module from my '77 CJ 258. Will it work with my '79 Wag 360? I have no idea what this thing does but it is keepimg me from finishing my engine swap/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif. It appears from my painless instructions that I also need a voltage regulator. That should be easy to find and cheap right? The main thing is that ignition module ANY input would be a great help. Thanks

I was excused from the trip to the in-laws on the grounds that my jeep would be running when she got back/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif. Help.

 

[251]

the Duraspark modules are the SAME for V8 or I6 applications
but my 77 CJ with 304 didnt yet have duraspark, I dont know what year they started that
OzarkJeep
In need of a T18 tranny!

 

[Guest]

Thanks maybe I should just do the entire Ignition upgrade now.

 

[251]

if its a little gold box then it isnt a duraspark

there is a guy on this bbs, who is pretty good with IGN stuff, I cant think of his name, just ask around youll find him..

haha

OzarkJeep
In need of a T18 tranny!

 

[Guest]

It is a little gold box/wwwthreads_images/icons/mad.gif. I've gotta get this finished!

 

[13337]

*I have the module from my '77 CJ 258. Will it work with my '79 Wag 360? I have no idea what this thing does but it is keepimg me from finishing my engine swap.*

NO!

You need the wiring diagram I attached to this post.

You will need the distributor out of the 79. It should be a Motorcraft unit.
You will need to buy a Ignition Module for a 79 Jeep, or a 79 Ford F-150 Pick up.
Both are the same thing. V-8 or I-6 are the same.
Advanced Auto sells them for as little as $16.

You will need an ignition coil. Again, about $15.

If you can afford it, go with the Distributor Cap Adaptor, Distributor Cap, Rotor, Plug Wires, and TFI ignition coil from a Ford F-350 with a 460 CID engine WITH EEC for the TFI Coil and TFI coil wire,

Ford F-350 with a 460 CID engine WITH OUT EEC if you want the round 'can' coil.

Don't forget the ignition resistor wire if you are going to build a harness.
(you only need one of these)
84 Ford F-350 WITH OUT EEC for the 1.35 Ohm factory resistor wire.
76 Chrysler New Yorker with 400 CID V-8 for the dual porciline 'pot' type resistor.
(the Chrysler resistor will have two resistors built into it, use the 1.4 Ohm side, not the 5.0 Ohm side.)
---------------------------------

The gold 'Module' from your 77 is the Prestolite unit.
It is a piece of crap. It will not work with the distributor you have for your V-8.
Avoid it at all costs.
---------------------------------

*It appears from my painless instructions that I also need a voltage regulator.*

Depends on what alternator you are using. If you are using a Prestolite, Motorola, Ford, Chrysler or anything but an Delco, you will need a correctly connected alternator.

Find out what alternator you have, and I'll try to find you a wiring harness diagram.

So Many Cats, So Few Recipes...

 

[Guest]

Thanks a bunch I know this has to get old. I have a Delco alternator but the painless stuff says that delco has in internal and external reg model. From their diagram I have the external. On the back it has a battery and ground post and a plug with two wires labelled R and F. A gain thanks for the help

 

[Guest]

I think I have it all finished except for one wire. At #1 on the diagram what is the post on the right of the on/off switch. That appears to be the last wire to hook up and I'm through. Please excuse my ignorance.

 

[13337]

SEE NEW ATTACHMENT.
Here is the wiring diagram for a permanent wiring harness.
THIS IF FOR 74 THROUGH 77 ONLY, and should NEVER be done in states where it will defeat factory emissions controls...

-----------------
1. Power Connector for the DuraSpark unit.
Red Wire is 'Start' or 'Cranking' power to the module. 12 volts during cranking.
Doesn't hurt a thing to be 'Hot' while engine is running.

White Wire is 'Run' power to the module. Must have a full 12 volts while engine is running.
----------------

2. Harness Connector for module power wires. (Standard Ignition Parts P/N S-629)
White wire should come from full 12 Volt source through the ignition switch.
Usually can be hooked to the positive side of the coil, BEFORE the resistor.

Red wire can come from Starter solenoid 'I' terminal,
OR,
from full 12 volt coil source if it's hot during cranking.
----------------

3. Control connector for the DuraSpark Module.
Has four wires.
Green, goes to coil negative.
Black, goes to ground. This is the ONLY GROUND for the module.
Violet, goes to the distributor violet wire.
Orange, goes to the distributor orange wire.
----------------

4. Harness Connector For DuraSpark Module Control Wiring.
(Standard Ignition Parts P/N S-698)
I splice into the Module 'Black' wire and direct ground that wire.
----------------

5. Factory Distributor Pickup connector.
Motorcraft grounded the DuraSpark module through the distributor. I keep this connection when building a wiring harness, as well as directly grounding the module through a splice in the wiring harness.
----------------

6. Harness connector for Distributor. (Ford Dealership is the only place I know to get these)
----------------

7. Ignition coil connector. (Standard Ignition Parts P/N S-539 for TFI coil connector, P/N S-583 for round coil connector)
----------------

8. Ignition Resistor.
Used just before the Ignition Coil Positive connection.

Ford Resistor Wire, 49" long, (Auto Zone/ Wells P/N F799)
OR,
Chrysler Porcelain 'Pot' Type Resistor, (Auto Zone/ Wells P/N CR105)
----------------

9. Four Terminal Starter Solenoid.
If you only have a three terminal Starter Solenoid, this wire can be hooked up in the same place as the White wire.
I prefer to do things this way if the solenoid permits.
----------------



So Many Cats, So Few Recipes...

 

[13337]

See atached for Delco alternator quick ID.

Internal or External Regulators...

So Many Cats, So Few Recipes...