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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What looked like a good frame when I checked it over 2 weeks ago went down the tubes real quick
. After 3 hours on the dolley over bumpy roads the tranny crossmember broke away from the frame taking part of the frame with it
. So I'm thinking, cut out the section between the doors, remove the front end and move the firewall back or just lose everything from the back of the door opening forward and fabricate a new piece to close it in. Aaron, how did you close yours in? My thought was if I moved the firewall back I would have more inside space but it might be too heavy on the tongue. Any thoughts, ideas? It's not a real pressing project as I have to work on the wife's HC before I start on this.
 

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I had the same idea for moving the firewall back and welding it on to complete the transformation. To take it on step further, then take the windshield put back on whack a bad wagon top up and put it back on, fill in window holes as desired and wall la youve got a covered trailer.


 

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I was going to make a trailer by taking the tail-lights and gate section from one partster and weld them to the door line of the tub of another partster... If you look at the angle of the door line (the forward line of the rear side panel) it is quite like the angle of the line between the side panel and tail-light section. Once done, the trailer would have gates both front and rear... I was going to cover the "front" "tail-lights" to give it a clean look...
I had what I needed but lost interest and sold the stuff.
 

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This will take a few posts but I will show the pics of how I did mine. If the floor of yours in in ok shape it will be much less work, on mine I was able to use the frame, quarter panels and most of the tailgate. To fill the frt I welded a 1 1/2 piece of angle iron at the top corner to make a header frame to stiffen the box. Then cut a piece of HEAVY sheet metal that RQ donated for a favor to be repayed at his request, to fit the opening. I kind of screwed up when I made the floor and made it about 3/8" too short, but it worked out very well, when the trailer is not being used it sits hitch end down and that 3/8 gap in the frt lets all of the water and crud drain out of it. There is a 90 degree bend at the bottom for stiffness. Since I was using my Toy PU frt axle under it I could narrow the wheel tubs for more clearance inside, the floor and ends of the tubs are 1/8 inch thick and very stout,,,, If you use materials that you can round up it cuts the costs alot. fabed up some hinges and a piece of emt for the bottom of the tailgate and filled in the gaps. I still am looking for an in the bed truck box to put on the front, made the frame 24 inches longer for this before I pinched the rails. It pulls very good behind the Jeepster and I have plans to make it into a 2 person "tent" trailer this spring, I hate sleeping on the ground only to find out in the morning that it rained heavily during the night!!!!!!

If you need differnt pics let me know. Aaron
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the pics Aaron. One of the PO's replaced the entire rear floor from the bulkhead back with checker plate and I think he welded it to the frame.I've been wanting to build a trailer like yours for years now and after seeing it, well it's just something that has to be done . Not like I need another trailer but then again I didn't really need another Jeepster either but that never stopped me before!!
 
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