Off Roading Forums banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
G

·
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. My name is Tyrel and I am the unhappy owner of a 1980 Bronco. I guess I would be happy if somthing would go right. The problem right now is a coolant leak. Its leaking from the exposed head bolt in the verry front on the driver's side of the engine. Its a small leak and I was hoping that it would seal up when the engine is started for the first time. Its a rebuilt engine. I assembled the heads and valve train myself and did it as well as i know how. Any help in this matter would be greatly appriceated.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,444 Posts
First of all, what engine do you have? Were the heads resurfaced? and hopefully not on a belt surfacer, longitudinal gouges in the surface is a sure way to tell.
If you have a 5.0, they do crack externally along the lower head bolt boss area, but it is rare, however it happened to me, a 12 inch long crack. what did you torque the bolts to and what brand head gaskets?

 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First off I'm sorry for the lack of information. Its a 5.0L roller cam short block that was properly decked by a performance minded machine shop. The heads are units from a mail order place called Performance Auto Warehouse. They seem to be a reputable place and the heads seem properly machined (I can tell by the machine marks on the mating surface). The head gaskets are Fel-pro units and the head bolts are fine arp units that were progressively torqued to 70 foots pounds by my stupid brother.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,444 Posts
well the holes in the block do go thru to the coolant passage, try removing the bolt and reinstalling it with non-hardening permatex,silicone will never set up.
But i torque them to 80.Fel-pro i believe,recommends 80 on long bolts, 65 on shorter outers however i have heard people experience trouble with the 65lbs on the outers.
Drain some of the coolant first though/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Should I remove just that bolt apply permatex silicone and retorque the bolt to spec or should I remove all the bolts and retorque them all?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,444 Posts
I would just go back and retorque them all to avoid possible future problem,since you all ready have a leak right off the bat,but its up to you. Just go back and check your brothers work/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif,put the sealer on just that bolt.
Permatex and silicone are two different products, i wouldnt recommend silicone because it may not {cure}, down in the threads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,280 Posts
Another good product to use on the head bolts, water pump, intake, and timing cover is the Permatex "Grey Bolt Prep".
It's non-hardening, and made specifically for bolts that pass through water jackets.
It was also designed to help get more accurate torque settings on the bolts, since it's somewhat liquid upon application.
Have fun!


WD-40 Reverend Grip-Shift
85 Bronco XLT, '69 351W, C6, 9" Detroit, Dana 44 Tru-Trac, 33X12.5s
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Try adding a can of stop leak to the coolant. I have never had a small block ford leak from one of the head bolts, but they do go into the coolant jacket. My Cj7 had this for 2 years, and I just added stop leak to it (Bars Leaks brand) and it fixed it!

Other wise, just pull the bolt and put some thread sealant on it and reinstall and torque it.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
If you're gonna pull the bolts anyways check to see if there is any coolant under the head gaskets ... If you had torque-yield head bolts, they must be replaced once you pull them off. They will never torque properly again once removed. I have no idea when Ford started using these.

Pharaoh
Yah baby, That's right! /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top