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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have my 4 inch lift on order. It will be here in about 8 days. I decided against $wheel wholesalers. I went with national tire and wheel. I know about cutting off the u bolt to ease frustration, but what else to expect when i put it on?? I pretty much know how to do it, but i am just wondering what i will run into. Also what will i expect while driving on the road. I don't drive over 35 - 40 miles an hour. My 63 CJ5 has the original ross steering, i know i will have more wander now, but i am willing to deal with it since i do not drive the jeep that far.
Thanks for any help
Dan Stewart 1963 CJ5 "caloosa Jeepers" member

 
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Out of my head:

-Watch caster angles on the front axle, with 33" tires it seems like 6 degrees is a "sweet" spot.
-Brake lines, are they long enough (under full extension of the springs) ???
-Bump stear, watch the tierod angles....
-Brakes, are you able to stop...... ???

Other "options":
-Greasable shackle bolts etc. are nice.....
-Shocks, this is a *big* topic, many are very satisfied with the Rancho 9000
-Gearing....

What was the hardest part of my swap:

-The pitman arm, i used a dropped arm on my '86 CJ7. It was a pain-in-the-a!! to get the old off (i didn't want to destroy it by cutting it off, in case i was to reuse it).
-The *old* rubber grommets in the shackle mounts was hard to get out, finally i used a torch to burn them out (smells & smokes like..., well you know <smile>)
-The ubolts wasn't that hard, i used a long prybar......

Regards,
PerJ (From Norway)

<[email protected]>
Using self-discipline, see http://www.eiffel.com/discipline
 
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Don't forget to check your pinion angle when you're done. Hopefully you receive spacers to drop your transfer case. I didn't really run into to much trouble with the U-bolts either.

Semper Fi!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How does a transfer case lowering kit work?? I see them advertised with kits, but I do not understand the concept. I mean i understand that it lowers the transfer case, but wouldn't that mess with the engine and tranny since they are all connected.
Thanks for any info.
Dan Stewart
1963 CJ5 "CAloosa Jeepers" member

 
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The transfer lowering kit is to make the rear drivshaft angle less step...

Do you need it ??
I would try without it, if you experience vibrations, there are two options:

-Transfer cae lowering.
-CVjoint driveshaft.

I made my own lowering kit:
NB! THis is on an '86 CJ7 !!!!

-Got 6 2" longer than stock crossmember bolts
- There is 3 bolts in each frame rail, holding the crossmember / skidplate.
I removed the center bolt on each frame rail, and bolted in the 2" longer bolt, leaving about 2" under the skidplate.
-Put a jack under the skidplate, removed the last 4 bolts.
-Lowered the crossmember *slowly*, for each 1/4", checked to see if anything where hitting something.

On a CJ7 w/258", the valve cover hit the firewall when i was about 1.75" down.
I then jacked it up again about 1/4" and bolted in the last 4 bolts.
Made certain the skidplate was sitting level, i measured the gap between the frame and the skidplate / crossmember (about 1.5")

Went to the local aluminum supply store and got a solid alu rod, about 1" in dia., length 1.5" x 6 a little for the cuts.

Cut out 6 1.5" long pieces, and used a drill press to make the center hole.

Removed a bolt at the time, and bolted in the alu. blocks.

Done.

Now, you will have to check the angle of the pinion, and compare it with the new angle of the output yoke of the transfer. With a standard style driveshaft, the should be paralell (or nearly).
With a CV joint driveshaft, the pinion should point directly (inline ??) at the CV joint, "along" the driveshaft.

Regards,
PerJ (From Norway)

<[email protected]>
Using self-discipline, see http://www.eiffel.com/discipline
 
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