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Don't know what vehicle you have but I believe that Mike Childs did a hydraulic conversion to his Jeepster on the Jeepster club page at Off-Road.com

Carl Lee
67 Jeepster Commando
"Old Reliable"
 
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This is my dilemma. Advance Adapters makes all of the basic components (see the AA website and the Jeep catalog) with the pedals at $150, dual master cylinders at $170, clutch slave cylinder at $90. HOWEVER, the bracket, which they say will fit GM blocks, will NOT fit the Buick OEM block and bell housing configuration. My guess, after talking with a moderately knowledgable guy, is that the lower portion of the bell housing is open, and this is where the bracket would go. But, not having worked on any rig with a hydraulic system, I'm not sure just where the damn thing should go in the first place. Have asked Parts Mike and will be asking others since in my rig, the OEM setup was a silly cable that ALWAYS would clog and break. Have converted to AA chain system, but with thru-the-floor pedals, I am still having binding problems, etc.

Anyone else with info on this, please email me directly as I don't always check posts in a timely manner ([email protected]). Hope this helped.

Steve

 

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Steve
My '71 also uses a cable, but it's something my Dad's mechanic scabbed in 20 yrs ago because my Dad always had trouble with the stock set up. It broke on me once while off road, and going to the local Jeep dealer, who was also a Chevy dealer, I found out it's a GM e-brake cable! U shape bolts to pedal, then long cable does a big "U", to the retainer clip in line with the fork. Threaded rod on the end allows stock Jeep fork pull thing to thread on/adjust, jamb nut holds it. Actually works pretty smooth, but the cable threads are breaking again. I have the AA chain drive set up ready to install as soon as I finish and test my lock right (still waiting for new cross shaft). Tell me about your probs with the AA Chain?? Sorry I can't help with the hyd set up.
Thanks,

Lynn
'71/'48/'97
 
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I had a 70 CJ5 with the clutch cable that caused me tons of grief. I replaced it with the AA chain unit and it worked fine for me. No
problems what-so-ever.

Gary
 
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Lynn:

The AA setup uses an eye bolt/ball and socket configuration to connect the pre ~'69 torque tube that sits between the clutch pedal and the bell housing. Clutch pedal is outside of the frame rails and you must hook the AA chain to the inside. This means that you must attempt to duplicate the early CJ clutch linkage torque tube design. I welded an extension arm (tube steel) to the clutch pedal shaft (the one that is shared with the brake pedal), and formed a slot therein through which the eye bolt could be inserted. The sprocket mounted ok as well as the fork to threaded rod connection. The bitch was the fabrication on the clutch pedal shaft. You must also take great care with chain alignment as the chain will not flex laterally very much. I used locking pliers (vice grips) to temporarily mount the sprocket with the fork engaged. Then I could see how the pedal linkage should be set up. Good luck. Having now remembered my problems, I am beginning to think that the hydraulic clutch solution may very well be easier (only a single mount to fabricate).

Steve


 
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