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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im about 99% sure im going SOA, but I want to know how involved its going to be to control the rear spring wrap.

can someone point me towards a website that sells the anti wrap kits so I can get some design ideas?

or better yet, someone who has made one give me some insight?

Im trying to visualize how to stop the twist, but still let the ends of the axle drop...

thanks for any advice!


OzarkJeep
77 CJ5, in a bunch of sanded and primered pieces
 
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Maybe this is something I should start taking pictures of!<G>

I've seen a few homemade ones on the trail, and a couple guys in our club have them. The most effective ones I think I've seen have been the kind that weld to the pumpkin. They weld two points to the pumpkin and the other end can be a slip joint that runs next to the drive shaft. Sorry, that's about all I can say........I will try to remember to take some pictures next time and post them on my site.

jo-jo
'77 CJ5 Fozzy Locker
20 degree RTI 1250

'87 Samurai Stock (for now)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks Jo Jo, that much I can understand, but doesnt that limit the drop of the differential? the purpose is to keep it from twisting ( if standing deside the Jeep looking at the pinion, up or down movement).. Ic ant figure out in my mind how to stop wrap and not stop drooop

help me understand!

OzarkJeep
77 CJ5, in a bunch of sanded and primered pieces
 
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when i did mine, i was worried about wrap just a lil bit. i've seen several ways to control it.

one was to cant the shocks forward a bit... almost a 45* angle... Allows longer shocks to be used to.. more droop

the second was a custom spring pack.. it had the leaves in the front (toward the front axle) longer than those in the rear. it also had the clamps in rear tight, and those in the front loose

another thought i had (but have never seen) is to use Ladder Bars from a "hot rod" (older stangs and camaros have them alot in the junk yard), and mount them above the springs, backwards... they would have to be set up kinda loose to not prevent droop though

Anyone have other ideas??
BJ

"If you chose not to decide, you still have made a Choice" RUSH
 
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What I did on mine was to take a pair of old track bars and turn them into a pair of traction bars that sit above the rear leaf springs. I mounted a pivot as high on the frame as I could directly above the front spring eye of the rear spring. I think that gave me something like 5.5" of space between the spring and the traction bar. Then I built a tower on the upper spring plate that would hold the traction bar parallel to a line drawn from the spring eye thru the upper leaf of the spring at the spring perch. I welded a 3/4" bolt onto the shortened track bar at the back end and used some rubber bushings for a strut rod to fasten the back end. Put the nut on and tacked it to keep it from backing off. Essentially, I built a 4 link, using the leaf springs as the lower links. It cured the wheelhop and was essentially free. I think the bushings cost $20. The articulation is the same as it was before. I'm running stock YJ packs with a full length add a leaf. The Jeep ramps about 890. Not the ultimate, but good enough for the trails I do. I don't think my traction bars would work if you wanted an RTI of over about 1100 or so. You'd have to go with rod ends for that and I didn't want the noise.

Jason '87YJ
(350/NP435/D300twinstick/SOA/GM14-FF-Detroit/D44/M8274)
 
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