G
Guest
·I want to eliminate the dimmer switch/poteniometer & just have the dash lights at full brightness all the time. How can I do this? Do I need to jumper two of the three wires together with a certain Ohm resistor????
How to bypass dash lights dimmer switch
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Nope, no resistor needed. The red/green wire is hot 12V when the lights are on, and the red/yellow feeds
the lights, Tag and insulate the 3rd black wire (it's ground), so you know what that cut off wire is at a
later date... Just tie the other 2 together.
Don't listen to him, He doesn'tknow what he just said!
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- waltuo
the lights, Tag and insulate the 3rd black wire (it's ground), so you know what that cut off wire is at a
later date... Just tie the other 2 together.
Don't listen to him, He doesn'tknow what he just said!
G
Guest
·Are you certain of this? When I look the wiring diagram it seems less cut & dry than that. If you say that's the way it works with absolute certainty then I'll jump it out.
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Yep, unless your color codes are different. I'm working off the 87 FSM schematic. trace it out, one wire
goes to ground, One to the head light swtich (the hot) and one goes to the inst cluster and such.
He STILL doesn't know what he just said!
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- waltuo < Outlaw's evil twin step brother
goes to ground, One to the head light swtich (the hot) and one goes to the inst cluster and such.
He STILL doesn't know what he just said!
Outlaw, are you sure on this? I have been looking at the FSM figure 21-30 on page 21-16. Also looking at the wiring diagram. This shows how to test the lamp controller. That little controller got a lots of stuff in it just to do a little job. Seems that it may be controlling the ground. The bulbs may have power to them all the time and when the headlamps are turned on it make the ground or 12 volts that will run back to the controller and then it can regulate the ground. Remember how back-asserd the headlight are. Headlight are hot all the time and you switch the grounds.
R/Y is hot all the time from a 5 amp fuse. Feeds the cluster and the light controller (to work the electronic in the controller) and other lights.
R/G is coming fron the other side of the light that go to the controller to be regulated to the ground thru the controller.
B is the ground.
Whatsa think?
Steve
R/Y is hot all the time from a 5 amp fuse. Feeds the cluster and the light controller (to work the electronic in the controller) and other lights.
R/G is coming fron the other side of the light that go to the controller to be regulated to the ground thru the controller.
B is the ground.
Whatsa think?
Steve
Hmm, your making me work for this, arent you steve? But lets be sure.
lets start at the light switch, It has a R/B wire that feeds 3 fuses, all 5A. One 5A goes to R/Y that feeds
power to lights all over, as well as the ilumination control. Some like the rear lic lamps get grounded on
the other side, so R/Y is definitly the main switched hot for the dash lights, etc.
lets start at the light switch, It has a R/B wire that feeds 3 fuses, all 5A. One 5A goes to R/Y that feeds
power to lights all over, as well as the ilumination control. Some like the rear lic lamps get grounded on
the other side, so R/Y is definitly the main switched hot for the dash lights, etc.
In reply to:
The red/green wire is hot 12V when the lights are on, and the red/yellow feeds the lights
[/ QUOTE ]
Hmm that isn't clear at all is it? Doesn't even make sense...Screwed that up didn't I?![]()
One end of the pot (controler) is tied to ground, the black wire. Thats OK.
Hmmm, R/Y is feeding the bulbs switched hot power, R/B is taking the other end of the bulbs back to
the control, and the resistor is between the return and ground, depending on the position. So, if the
R/B is grounded, (No resistance to dim the lamps) you should be full bright. So you would Jumper the
Black and R/B together to get the ground without resistance.
In reply to:
Tag and insulate the 3rd black wire (it's ground), so you know what that cut off wire is at a
later date... Just tie the other 2 together.
[/ QUOTE ]
Thats just wrong!![]()
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I hate these fine line schematics! If they grouped 3 lines and left a space between the next 3 lines
(like your supposed to, per every drafting standard I have ever seen...) it would be tons easier to trace...
Steve, you had it nailed. good catch. I screwed up.
Sorry, Wild bill!
No problem Wayne. Making me think about how it works also. When I get to old to learn a little more, I guess I will be 6 foot under very soon. Worked to many hours under dashes of motor vehicles with the wiring. From what I am seeing, the 12 volts that is going to the light controller (dimmer switch) is operating the scr and a chip on the inside of the controller to make the function of the dimmer work. Heck of way to do it, when all you need is a reostat of sort to do the same thing. But believe me, Suzuki is not the only one doing it, but some of the other vehicles are just using one chip now to do it all.
Got our CAD man to make me a set of wiring diagram that are 24" x 36" . Makes it so much easier. Does anybody know where the three diode that are in the idle up circuit are?
Steve
Got our CAD man to make me a set of wiring diagram that are 24" x 36" . Makes it so much easier. Does anybody know where the three diode that are in the idle up circuit are?
Steve
Steve,
Someone has finally done what I've wanted for 5 years now , and enlarged schematic for these Zuks!!! Is there any way you could copy that and ship one to me ? I'd be willing to pay , of course a reasonable fee for your trouble . I too am getting old and blind , but not as bad as Wayne....hehe..
Sarge
Someone has finally done what I've wanted for 5 years now , and enlarged schematic for these Zuks!!! Is there any way you could copy that and ship one to me ? I'd be willing to pay , of course a reasonable fee for your trouble . I too am getting old and blind , but not as bad as Wayne....hehe..
Sarge
Not sure why they do it. Yes it has a potentiometer in it, but it works in using the (looks like a scr) scr in controlling the amount of resistant. Seems like they want to do it the cheapest way, but no. I have one that I have open up and it have more than just the potentiometer in it. It is soldered to a board. It is that way on a samurai, not sure about the 410, my guess that it would be the same. Open one up and look in it. It will surprize you what in it.
Steve
Steve
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