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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying the get the stock (I think it's stock) carburetor off the 4cyl engine of a 1981 CJ5. The Haynes manual says to remove the fuel line (I'm almost postive that would be the steel one) from the carburetor. This steel hose attaches to the carb with two nuts. One of them is about 1" and it has a 1/2" nut going into it. When I turn either of them, the steel line turns as well. Eventually, if I keep this up, it will get kinked. I don't want that. How do I remove the fuel line from this carburetor? I'm trying to get to the fuel pump to see if it's working. And if it is, I plan to rebuild the carb so I need to get this line detatched from it no matter what.
These are the numbers I took from the Jeep:
Top of engine on passenger side: 10002948
Driver side of engine below manifold: 10012189
Carburetor: Rochester VaraJet II - 17081791 2520DMP

-Dorian
www.4Low.com
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I don't have the same carb, but the hook up sounds simular to my Carter YF. The tube might be corroded to the nut. You might try soaking the area with a penatrating oil over night or even spray it a few times over a couple days. Then use one wrench to hold the nut closest to the carb and use another wrench to turn the nut on the fuel line.

If this doesn't work, don't worry so much about wrecking the fuel line. It's a good time to learn./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

You should be able to get a new line, or get yourself a flaring kit (a good one) and learn how to make your own lines. This is good to know! I was on the trail with a friend once when he lost his brakes and had to do a trail side flaring job. He had a hair line crack in one of his brake lines right under the nut that goes into the master cylinder. With the amount of pressure in the brake system it leaked easily and he had no brakes. He just cut the end of the line off, re-flared it and he was on his way (didn't have a flaring tool, but managed to Mickey Mouse it).

BTW, what's wrong with your fuel delivery anyway?

jo-jo
'77 CJ5 Fozzy Locker
20 degree RTI 1250
 

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What is happening is that the big nut; which is actually part of the carb inlet system; is breaking loose way before the little nut and the steel line connection is. In this case, you must use your very best, properly fitting end wrench (or a flare nut wrench if you are a mega-bucks guy and have one that big)
and HOLD the big nut perfectly still. Then with an equally perfect wrench fit on the little nut, turn only the little nut. The best way to do that is to get the wrenches side by side, and put a third wrench or the handle of a cresent wrench between the long handles of the two nut wrenches and pry one against the other. Thets how them OLE PATCH boahs down in Texas on them ole rigs does it. Two big pahp wrenchus n' a break-'em-out bahr. We also use that method to break out difficult pipe fittings on water well rigs. Been thar....broke 'em out. You don't HAVE to destroy the tube...you CAN do this if you do whut ah said. Dave

CJDave
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The engine keeps stalling whenevr the gas is let up. The plugs, distributor, and coil have been changed. I'm wondering if it's a fuel pump or carb problem.

-Dorian
www.4Low.com
 

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Nope, It MAY be that the little dashpot is kaputzo (if so equipped). That can make an annoying habit of dying when the RPM is lowered radically. Dave

CJDave
 
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