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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can't get the stinkin' axle hub nut removed from the end of either of my front axle shafts. What's the deal? The Haynes and Chilton manual show pictures of the nut just coming undone with ease. I've busted two 1/2" drive breaker bars trying to get these things off. I last had them off about 2 years ago when I did a gear swap. I took everything apart and put everything back together with my hands and hand tools. No power tools. How can all these parts be stuck on this tight? It's not rust b/c I've never driven near salt water or salt and the Seattle rain keeps most elements from contaminating anything. What's the trick to removing them?
This is so frustrating!!!

-Dorian
http://www.4Low.com
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
What brand bars? Craftsman? Go get a 3/4" bar and a socket the right size. Spray it with penetrating oil a couple of days in advance. What are you using to hold the alxe shaft steady? I had enough leverage when I did mine that the tire sitting on the ground spun. The final step: if you can't remove the bolt with the wrench. Take a propane torch and heat the bolt for 10-15 minutes. Then put the wrench on it and give it a solid twist. Write back to me if it still won't come off and I'll give you some more ideas. Good luck,

Nick Hagen
1995 Wrangler
33" Mud Tires and a four banger
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thx Nick. I was planning on buying a Craftsman 3/4" later this evening. I'm using the disc brake to hold the shaft steady (somebody is inside the vehicle pressing the brakes). The torch idea came to mind once, but I wasn't sure if that's a good thing to do or not. I'll definitely try it.
I'll keep you posted.

-Dorian
www.4Low.com
 

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You don't even have to remove the nuts, just remove the three 13 mm 12 point bolts that holds the wheel bearing to the spindle, and remove the axles with the wheel bearings as an assembly.

 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I thought it would work that way. But that bearing carrier piece (you called it a spindle) is stuck as well. I banged and yanked on it for about a half hour and couldn't even get it to budge or rotate even the slightest bit. Besides, I need to get those nuts removed because I'm going to change the universal joints in the axle shafts.

-Dorian
www.4Low.com
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here is some advice from one who has been down the same road you are currently on: go get some antiseize compound, aluminum base or copper base, it doesn't matter so much as USE IT! EVERYWHERE! There are a few places not to like head bolts, rod bolts, etc., etc. but evrything else on our Jeeps can benefit from the stuff. (I know, I know, it gets all over everything while you are putting things back together!) It stops corrosion and/or galling at the interference surfaces and when you take it apart later it will come apart. The best part of this is when you have to take it apart on the trail. It becomes a wrenching and fixing exercise instead of a frustration-filled ordeal fringed with colorful expressions. And busted knuckles. I cannot say this too much: USE IT EVERYWHERE! It works.
sln

 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Dorian, you don't need to remove the nut or the hub to change u-joints. After you have taken out the three 13 mm bolts the axle and hub assembly can be pulled out with a slide hammer. Most auto parts stores will loan or rent one to you. Roger

 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Take the torch and heat the outer housing the carrier sits in, it will loosen the hold that the rust has and allow the assembly to come out.. You don't have to break the axel all the way down to change to universal joints, just did the same job oon mine.

 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You still need to remove the wheel bearings right? Be careful when you do, I wrecked both of mine. ($300 apeice list price. I got mine for $184 cause I work at a shop.) If you damage and need new ones, I can try to get the same price on them and ship them to you if you can't find a comparable price near you. I don't know how to get them out without damaging them but if you find a way let me know. I put a ton of antiseize on them to make removing them in the future a possibility. Good luck,

Nick Hagen
1995 Wrangler
33" Mud Tires and a four banger
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I got it. The nuts took a 1/2" drive craftsman breaker bar and a 4.5' cheater bar (pipe) with all 165 lbs of me jumping up and down on the end of it.
Thanks for all the help fellas.

-Dorian
www.4Low.com
 
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