You might want to wait a bit to see if Tractech releases the "Electrac", an electronically-controlled locking version of the Truetrac. It will operate as a normal LSD in the off mode and as a spool in the on mode. Not much information on their website, but here is the url: http://www.tractech.com/WhatsNew.htm

Once I get my YJ, I'll probably be going with the Truetracs front and rear since we see a lot of snow and ice up here in Kirkland Lake. I won't be able to afford the ARB or the Ox, so the Truetrac looks like the only way to go.

Time, heat and pressure.
The same things that make a diamond also make a waffle.

~Scott Meyer

 

I have the 4.56's and 33's with a rear true trac. I LOVE the true trac.. I would not give it up for a thing. I have never had it unlock on me when I get on hit on muddy hill climbs, or climbing up over rocks. If a tire gets in the air, put the e-brake on a bit and it will stay locked up

4in currie lift, 4.56's, true trac, and 33's.. yeah it's a start!

 

yeah i saw that on their website earlier under "new products" or similar. again though i don't get off on relying on a power source to activate the locker. i realize that the 100% locked traction might be better than the limited slip but i am willing to try the sacrifice. also you wonder how much $ that puppy will run?

 

hey toyatic
what are you running in the front- open?

 

Steve,
I'd skip the true-tracs. Limited slips don't cut it for hardcore crawling. If you want to be able to do axle alley and the like you are gonna want a hard locker. Personally i really like the detroits. I run detroit lockers front and rear and I am VERY HAPPY with them. All 4 of my tires are going to turn, period. Just my personal opinion, but you got to see a little of how my Jeep drives when I was out there. If you want that kind of traction go Detroit. Tom


September 11, 2001- We will not forget! We will not forgive!

 

Steve,
I agree totaly with Tom, True Tracks front and rear are still gonna cost ya some pretty good coin. But your return for the investment is basicly gonna allow you to run the same trails your running now,...just with more ease. You will not get a significant improvemnet, in the ability to tackle, the next level of challenging trails. I went with a Tru-trac, in the front and a Detroit in the rear for about a year, when I 1st bought the Jeep. They worked well on steep climbs and general trail use, but they are nearly useless on slow technical trails, especialy in the front. I ran Claw Hammer, with them, but it was long, frustrating day, of road building and winching. All 4 tires must participate.

Jeff
89 YJ
Adversity is imminent, versatility is mandatory, misery is optional.

 

alright steve... this is your time to step up to the plate... dont waste your money on several posi's.. when you already have one.. like tom and jeff have stated... in order to jump up to the big leagues.. you need all the help you can get.. and that is full on lockers..
you might not be ready now for those types of trails.. but... when that right of passage does take place.. you will have the equipment to do battle..
so when you make this purchase.. think ahead.. think of where you wanna be next year.. where do you see your jeep going? tire size.. lift.. what not.. and then where do you want to go..
i am running detroits front and rear.. and love them.. i drive it everyday.. done several long... long.. road trips.. they are quiet.. and your driving characteristics will only change slighty..

http://www.jeepgod.net

survival is instinct, but living takes guts

 

Please excuse my ignorance.
But, how does your driving characteristics change? and when?(turning, hard acceleration? etc.) Does the front Detroit locker engage when the hubs are not locked? I noticed a few people say that they have the Detroits in the rear. Does this make the handling characteristic change?

I do mostly trail driving, with some time spent in mud and on sand. All I have now is an open up front and a limited slip in the rear. That brings up another question. I know that the newer limited slips in YJ's and TJ's have an inferior grade of limited slip. Does my 1973 Cj with a 44 have the same problematic linited slip?

Like I said, please excuse the ignorance.
Thank You

In the midst of reviving my ole '73 Cj-5 304 Ci, with a RV cam and a 2 1/2 Rancho lift and 1 1/2 shackle lift

 

Steve, the stuff you are wanting to run DEMANDS full lockers. If you want to be locked now and plan on upgrading the axles later, get a couple LockRights, they are mucho cheaper than a Detroit.

Brad
ORC Land Use Editor

and
http://rockgarden.rockcrawler.com

 

damn you guys! i know you get off on this "newbie" and his "locker madness" $hit! yeah i'm listening with both ears. ok so a detroit soflocker in front and rear? i see only lists for the rear 35. they (4wd hardware) only list it for the 30 in 1972-86 CJ. i'll have to go to the detroit web. back later oh and thanks jeff,brad,god and tom....etc so i'm up to the plate and i want a homerun-not a strikeout?

 

yo 73

i can't answer much but will go with this- you probably have an LSD (limited slip diff) with clutch mechanism instead of a stronger gear driven LSD. not sure here but that is what my stock rear tracloc is. with the front full 100% locker engaged, the turning capabilities are limited i am told- join in here guys with hands-on experience. also with a hard locker in rear the same goes. chirping of tires and other strange handling traits occur when turning on pvmt.



erentials and Traction Control
Conventional "open" differentials tend to equalize the power delivered through both wheels. Thus if one wheel loses traction - "spins out" on snow, mud, sand, or gravel - it delivers very little power to the ground. The other wheel will deliver only the same very little power. Often this is not enough to keep the vehicle moving on - it's stuck.

Traction control differentials allow the wheel with traction to deliver more power than the wheel without traction. Often this is enough to keep the vehicle moving. There are two types of traction control differentials:

Locking

Limited Slip
Each type has advantages for specific types of vehicles and driving conditions.

 

a detroit is a full locker.. meaning both wheels get 50% torque all the time unlike a limited slip.. which depending on type will have a ratio of something like 60%/40% per tire.. when one tire loses traction.. then it will send some torque to the other tire.. but both wheels will never be equal.. (meaning you will spin a tire)
with that said you have different types of full lockers.. arb/ox are selectable.. meaning you control when they are locked and unlock(open diff)..
detroits which are locked all the time.. but they do dissengage.. say when corning around a tight corner on pavement..
then the true full lockers.. spool/welded diff.. these are 100% all the time.. no give no dissengage..
the driving characteristics are with a full locker in the rear.. and on.. tires will chirp on really tight turns.. (detroits do dissengage.. unlike spools so spools will chirp more and easily).. upon hard excelleration it will want to push your vehicle to the drive side.. (on coming traffic).. and in a moderate to wide turn.. the rear end will want to push out to the passenger side.. all of these are slight.. and once you get used to driving with that locker back there... become damn near unnoticable.. its like any other Quirk/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif a vehicle has..
for the front.. you will need to run hubs with a full locker.. so you may dissengage the shafts and detroit.. without hubs your locker will spin along with the shafts.. and your tires.. making steering harder..

so steve.. if you go with that front detroit.. you will need hubs in the front.. sniff.. sniff.. smells like a great time for a front axle upgrade.. /wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif.. and while your at it.. ditch that crappy rear of yours... /wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif..
now you'll be hitting a grand slam!!! /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif..

http://www.jeepgod.net

survival is instinct, but living takes guts

 

Instead of worrying about new carriers and gears find a front axle from a 95 YJ (or 91-95 w/ abs) and a 4 banger and then a non c-clip d35 rear from a 4 banger. These Shouldn't be that expensive check http://www.car-part.com for axles around you. Then throw lockright in or weld em up and wait till you have cash for d60's (i think you want to go to 35" tires later on?). This should be much cheaper and easier than worrying about new gears and full case lockers. My vote would be for detroits but if in a couple years you are planning on d60's and 35's i wouldn't waste the cash.

BarrelRoll

97 TJ

Wheel it or drive a minny van

 

well jeeper, it's the same old song and dance- i will throw $ into the 30 and 35 till i decide i've had enough and step up to 44's or 60's! baby steps? yeah i guess! maybe i will re-evaluate the OX and put one in the front and go a detroit in the rear. decisions,decisions.......... you suggest the axles from a 4cyl cause they are 4.10 gears? good idea there. 35" tires? well yeah that'll happen on the road to 38's i'm sure.

 

Steve, wasn't trying to hammer on ya, just puttin in my 2 cents. I kinda forgot about the YJ stuff like the 35 and no hubs. I wouldn't put money into the 35, it's a waste. The stronger you make everything else - the more axleshafts your gonna break. Up to you but I'd wheel it as is until you can come up with the bank for a better rear and at least the hub kit for the 30. I don't know how far you want to try to go at once. If you put money into your 30, you can always sell the 30 parts if and when you decide to upgrade to a different front axle. 35 parts are pretty much yours for life, nobody wants to buy used parts for a bum axle. The 30 is stronger than some people give it credit for. Mine has taken a lot of abuse and keeps on pulling. You RC 30 R&P is stronger than mine, so you may never need to upgrade. Depends on how far you want to go. I'm gonna go with a 44 front one of these days, but so far my 30 is working well. The 35 on the other hand will never be more than marginal, no matter how much you do to it.

If it were me I'd look into the front hub kit for your 30. The one with the big hubs and the 5 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern is far superior to the smaller hub version. I'd also look into alloy axle shafts for your 30. Then it will be good and ready for a Detroit and gears. A 30 with alloy shafts and 297's will take a hell of a lot of abuse, that's what I have done to mine. For the rear I would suggest a 44 or a 60. If you really intend to get hardcore I would get the 60 now. Why build or buy 2 custom rear axles. Put 5 on 5-1/2 on the rear to match the front. You can always go bigger in the front later if you need to, but you kind of need to go bigger in the rear now before you waste any money on the 35. Again, just giving my .02 here.

As far as the Ox locker goes, I have only seen one in action with me on the trail (on sledgehammer). He seemed to have a lot of trouble locking and unlocking. It also broke and he had to be towed off the trail. Only one example I know, but that is the only one I have any kind of personal experience with.

September 11, 2001- We will not forget! We will not forgive!

 

ok tom- hammer on me? naw, no way! i get off on this $hit! i will coast for awhile and sit this one out for the moment. got to catch my breath and ponder the rear 60 routine. damn 5 on 5-1/2? now i need new rims? when does it stop? small hill for a "stepper" right? how about just put the gears in my axles now for $1000 parts and labor and wheel away? will my rear stock LSD be able to stay with the new gears? don't know what the carrier break is. there i go- spending $ on these axles again!

 

Thank you Steve and Jeepgod for the education on lockers and their on-road characteristics. I am sorry that I took so long to acknowledge your help, sometimes my online time becomes sporatic at best. BUT, I will always check for replys to my questions (some that I embarass myself by asking).

Again, Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions.
And for every question I ask there are a 100 more that are answered in the other postings!

You guys are a virtual cornacopia of knowledge!

Greg

In the midst of reviving my ole '73 Cj-5 304 Ci, with a RV cam and a 2 1/2 Rancho lift and 1 1/2 shackle lift