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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I dont know how to put pics in the private thing so I replied here,After lifting my truck and because articulation is important to me I found it necessary to grind the stops off the front drive shaft allowing it to work at much greater angle and to eliminate the need for a high degree shim. The more the pinion points up in the front the more bump steer you introduce by changing the factory geometry. I have attached many pics to show what to grind but the easiest way is to hold shaft down all the way and rotate it. Then look wheere it is binding. Dont be scared when after the lift is installed the front shaft doesnt spin, And by all means make sure it does spin after the lift or you will ripp out the u-joints. I will say I put in a bigger axle that was not designed for a 1/2 ton truck so this may be alot of the angle problems.Also if it is not your daily driver feel free to leave the sway bar out, I run with out and at 10 psi and it feels just fine,even under emergency small furry animal avoidance moves.Take a second to bust your spring pack apart and grease the leafs, put teflon pads in between as well if they dont already have them in. Get a new center bolt before you start.Make truck more flexy and rides smoother. If you dont haul any thing pull the over load off the bottom of the pack, that controversial but it will help the trrucks flex but cost 1" of clearence. Hope this helps.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: CV Shaft for CaptCrunch

BTW this is a ford f150 front shaft , they have a higher spline count and I found a yoke that was 2" longer so I didn't have to have it lengthend, I use this one as the spare. About 1" spline showing on stock chevy shaft with 6" of lift. Shimming will correct some of this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
LMAO... mm... crunch berries LOL. I have been pretty busy doing my 6" lift on top of work and doing some street rod projects as well. So haven't been on as much as usual. Thanks for the great pics Frank... I appriciate it. That is exactly how I thought it would be... just would hate to grind off the wrong piece. I'm experimenting w/ no degree shims and no t-case drop w/ 6" springs and a CV in the rear.

1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
FrankP,

Your quote:
"pull the over load off the bottom of the pack, that controversial but it will help the trrucks flex but cost 1" of clearence"

You can always flip the overload and get the same flex as if it was off, but you won't lose that 1", or should I say 3/4" (since that's really how thick it is :))


And as far as driving around without a Sway bar, Yeah, I barely notice mine without it. I had to take mine off b/c of the crossover, and mine is my daily, and I don't really notice it too much...I do get some sway on some quick corners, but just have to take it a bit easier from now on. Not bad though in my opinion :)
Boss


The Boss now allows you to visit his site
http://www.boss.coloradok5.com
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's so shiny! Good Idea. I also cut those clamps off from around the spring, probally not supposed to but it really alows it to flex more. It is still the stock packs back there. I plan on building a pack later this summer. Thanks.

 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey Frank,

That's Por15 making all that shine :) Plus, haven't been able to take it out wheel in yet :( AGR is the hold up!! They blow!!
Anyhow, yeah, cutting those clamps off the spring will definately allow more flex. Not so sure if I want to do that though. I think this way flexes pretty good.
Boss


The Boss now allows you to visit his site
http://www.boss.coloradok5.com
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
POR15 is a rust preventative paint? I would think cutting those straps off and wheeling fast would allow the pack to shift to the side. Likely not a good thing. I putz around and run over stuff. My truck body is resdy to fall off the frame as it is, dont need to go bouncing it around. Looking into fiberglass race truck body. Dont know how it would go on though. Good luck. http://www.fivestar-online.com/pro-1.html
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
FrankP,

Yes, Por15 is rustpreventive/Rust stop type paint. Not sure if I could call it paint. But anyhow, it's best to apply it over rust. http://www.por15.com
Check them out...I like the product. My entire underneath is coated with it. The truck had like 4 huge rust holes in it, that I had to cut out and weld in new metal. With Por15 on now, Hopefully, I won't have to do any more rust repair :).
The only problem with Por 15 is, when you get it on yourself, wash it off immediately with mineral spirits or something. I won't come off. I have it in my hair still!!!
Got it on my face and it took about a week to get off. Got it on my eye lid, and everyone thought I was trying to be one of those Marliyn Manson kids...LOL!!
Hands, arms, and legs...you name, I got it on it...except the "Hootus"...lol!!!!
Anyhow, yeah, my truck is a daily driver too, so wouldn't want to do that (cut the clamps) I bet you get some serious flex from that :)
Personally, I don't think fiberglass bodies are good for the flexy rigs. They'll crack when they flex too much. I would find a donor body.
BUT, that would be pretty sweet lookin if you got one of them bodies on your frame :) Take care.
Boss
ps, Actually, CaptCrunch referred me to Por15. He knows a lot about it. Thanks for the referral Capt.


The Boss now allows you to visit his site
http://www.boss.coloradok5.com
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Frank... as soon as i get it I will post some pics... should be out to me mid-next week.

1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looks great Boss... I got it all over my hands mostly... put it doesn't come off very well once it dries... One girl at a party asked me jokingly if I wash? Hahaa

I am doing a little test on mine... I have POR-15 in the front and Herculiner in the rear. I like the POR-15 much better... lasts and lasts! I ran out of por-15 and had some herculiner left from an old truck... Por-15 is much easier to put on under the truck IMO.

1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
 

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I"ve got 2 tyvek suits made for just such projects. this stuf is thin and very movable. it was designed as an airborne particualte suit, but i use it as rainsuit/coveralls. I"m not sure where my crazy old man got them from, but they;re awesome. I"m sure tyvek has a website. the stuff is used to wrap houses with. won;t let water in, but dsoes let moisture in the air out. good stuff. it would definately prevent POR-15 to Hootus contact.
---Peacock

96 Z-71 EXTcab, richmond 3.73, detroit rear, cold air, dual flowmasters, new drive-train
 
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