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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally broke down and spent an evening building a spreader. It does make it much easier. I measured 20 flats will give me 0.015" opening in the housing where the bearings sit. For the thread assembly, I used an old ball joint, part of a tie rod and a TRE. Not the purtiest welds, but they are deep.

Spreader:


Thread assembly
 

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There you go! Very clever using the TRE! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif

I think the factory tool attaches at just two points above the tubes instead of four, but if it works it's all that's needed!
 

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Nice!
How about a few more photos? dimentions? for us copy cats?
Thanks
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yourock.gif
 

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That looks friggin beeeee u teee fullll. For us dum basses, what the he77 are you doing that to a differential for? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

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its so you can pull the carrier out it spreads it just enough so you can pry it out some carriers are in there really tight
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks. The four pieces of 3/4"x3/4" angle in the earlier pics are there to make sure it doesn't lift up under load. They aren't physically attached to the spreader.

The two lugs are 3/4" round stock. The side supports are 1/2"x2"x14" long. I ran out of the 1/2" bar, so I ended up using the 2" angle (red) for the rear plate and attached with 5/8" grade 8's (overkill, but they fit in the holes). The thread assembly is an old D44 lower ball joint welded to a side plate. A cheby TR was cut to length and welded to the BJ stud. A G.Waggy TRE was cut to length, and drilled for the 1/2" Grade 8 bolt and a 2x2 square tube was drilled for this pivot and welded to the other support.

I didn't have a 3/4" drill bit, otherwise I'd have drilled the center of the 1/2"x2 flat bar. The 'ears' already had 3/4" holes in them, so I just welded them to the outside of the side bars.

Again, not very pretty, but it does work!

Bottom view:


Lugs:
 

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.... And to think, I almost skipped this thread! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Doesn't matter what your tools look like, just that they WORK!
I've given directions here many times on how to make a low cost tool, and I have a tool box full of home made tools.
(makes the Snap-On guy cringe every week when he's here!)

Here is another tip for doing differentials,
Grind or sand out the inside of the old bearings until the fit up on the differental housing without pressing them on and off...

Then you can use the old bearings that slip on and off to find out how much side to side play there is, and/or determine your shim sizing side to side.

When you have final fitting, install the correct amount of shims and press on your new bearings.
(you will find that bearing manufacturers keep MUCH tighter tolerances than the differental housing manufacturer!)

The same thing can be done with the pinion bearing, providing the pinion has a pressed on bearing.

Anyone that has done a differental and pinion shaft knows how many time you have to assemble and disassemble to get the damn thing right...
This just helps with one of those pain in the ass jobs, pressing bearings, especally new bearings...
 

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That's not ugly at all, and it works. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif

I can't weld anything.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/40BEER.gif
Dale
 

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Thank you Mr.OFFroadMUDpunk. I have only had one experience with the gears themselves. A Dana 60 from my '72 Blazer. 4th. to 2nd. on an exit ramp. Sheared off two teeth from ring gear, one through the cover, other wedged in spiders - caused carrier to break. I guess since it was busted it came out a little easier. Just a little help, some capitals and periods make it a little easier for us older guys to read posts. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Thanks again.
 
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