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Farmjeep, do you also pull those tags off of your mattress? Ya' know you ain't uppos to do dat either.

Ricky...seeya...
1979 CJ-7 401 T18
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif FINALLY!!!!! I SEE the problem here. What I failed to mention was that the #2 battery was for AUXILLARY loads....loads not associated with the original Jeep electrical system. You see, the HEADLIGHTS would be hooked as they normally are...to the #1 battery and stock Jeep system. The BUN WARMER, the HAM RADIO (old one...draws a crapload of amps), and the COFFEE POT. All those loads are separate from the #1 battery and isolated at zero oil pressure. So there are two possibilities: Leroy leaves the headlights on and poops #1 battery...OR little Murgatroyd leaves the bun warmer on and drains #2 battery. The system as displayed by TeamRush, and with my previously added note on the multi-source, diode-protected control circuit, will overcome either of those listed possibilities when equipped with a by-pass momentary on push button. Thank goodness, now these moonguys will quit bothering me and go back to popping brew./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
try this
i hope this works, or im gonna have one dead computer/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif

dan
NECESSITY IS THE MOTHER OF INVENTION
/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gifLET IT SNOW/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
 

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IT WORKED!!!! DON'T KILL THE BOX!!!!

Almost a real schematic!
That should loose 90% of the home builders....
I see what you are talking about now...
Dual isolation both directions.
I don't know why I couldn't get a grip on that...
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I think if I was going to go to the trouble to build and maintain that, I would just use the voltage cut outs like my Cad uses.
The voltage drops below 12.0 volts, the cutout disconnects the battery from the cars load centers.
You have to turn the key to get it back.
Comes in handy when I leave the interior light on all night./wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif
You loose all your radio pre sets, but the friggin' thing starts!!! And I don't have to drag jumper cables in the rain!
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I intended to run everything off of both batteries when vehicle is running, and nothing off of the second battery when the vehicle was not running. If I ran the first one down, the second would be a self jump...
Maybe come in handy for tobacco juice welding too...../wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif
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I can't believe this thread went this long and not one harsh word! COOL!
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Z50K2
For the question about the continuous hold solenoid, It will handle very large amp loads for a short period of time.
The ones I have are rated at 130 amps continuous, and 300 amps momentary. That should be enough to jump a hard to start Jeep.
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1&2 are continuous hold solenoids.
3&4 are Oil pressure switches.
5 is a 'Either/ Or' manual selector switch.

When the oil pressure comes up, the continuous hold solenoids are pulled in, and the batteries can charge on a common line.

The #5 switch allows either battery to be used to start the vehicle.

I think I would use a three position switch rather than a double throw on #5.
Three positions would allow the center to be 'Off', instead of draining one battery all the time by keeping one of the continuous hold solenoids activated continuously.

It is a good idea, but pretty busy...
It wouldn't take much of a diode to do what you want here. One diode out of a alternator rectifier bridge should do the trick, and do it cheaply. There are normally at least three positive and three negative diodes in a rectifier bridge.

If Chris Columbus "Discovered" America (with 25 million already here), Can I Go "Discover" Florida?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Hey Aaron, Would the system you drew up have double the available amperage if 6 volt batteries were used in series/parralell fashion? Probably complicating things too much but I just couldn't resist.

Gorgeous George
Jus'luvJeep'n/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif
ASE Master Tech
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
sorry aaron if the first on worked, my computer and i for some reason could not agree if it did or not.

you could use pressure switches, but i prefer spst switches (i am a manual control kind of guy). this would require three toggles to run the system (a drop in the bucket to the total number that is planned for my jeep)/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif.

the diodes needed are about a buck at rat-shack.

this system allows more batteries to be run easily by adding another solenoid.

dan
NECESSITY IS THE MOTHER OF INVENTION
/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gifLET IT SNOW/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
 

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Interesting use of the diodes blackjack. That would have to be one pretty dead battery to not click the solenoid. I think we all have a pretty good idea on how to build our dual batt setups, though no two will be alike!!

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Big Ed
'88 YJ, 4" susp,3" body,33's,283 Chevy V8,TH350,4.11's,D30,D35c
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
TeamRush,
Can you label the components to your latest diagram? I see you have numbers on the things but can you make it easy for the electrical illiterate?

Cut to shape, hammer to fit, paint to match /wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif
Project '51 willy's total rebuild /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
 

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*Blackjack* said,

*you could use pressure switches, but i prefer spst switches (i am a manual control kind of guy). this would require three toggles to run the system (a drop in the bucket to the total number that is planned for my jeep)*

I'm that fat, lazy, Cad driving kind of guy, I like it automatic.
Too many switches confuse me. (so does anything to do with a woman or the IRS...)
I was thinking Hobbs switches because of CJ Dave's original design...
Sorry dude! Didn't mean to butcher your schematic....
It is sound thinking, and someone did put a lot of thinking into that design...
Talented bunch on this thread....
That's probably why I had to have it spelled out for me.... I can be a little thick headed at times. This was one of them...
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*acemeck* asked,
*Would the system you drew up have double the available amperage if 6 volt batteries were used in series/parralell fashion? Probably complicating things too much but I just couldn't resist.*

In parallel, like it is in both diagrams, the voltage would stay the same, but double amperage.
(like jump starting a car)

In series, the amperage would effectively stay the same, but the voltage would double.

In series/ parallel with 6 volt batteries, you would have to have a screw loose to mess with it!
I used to do everything from large trucks with series/ parallel switches on 6 volt batteries that charge on 12 volts and start on 24 volts.....(Insane!)
To golf carts that have three sets of 6 volt batteries wired for 12 volts, and those three 12 volt feeds wired in series for 36 volts! And it has a separate 6 volt battery to kick the switches with...! (what the hell were the designers thinking!? Or Smoking?)
That will make you crazy in a hurry!
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*StooperWilly* asked,
*Can you label the components to your latest diagram? I see you have numbers on the things but can you make it easy for the electrical illiterate?*

Yup, I can.
Read the post that goes with the diagram. (it's down toward the bottom a little...)
I name and discuss the switch functions...

The little red thing with the arrow head in the box is a diode.
A diode is a one way check valve for electricity. It goes through one way, but not the other. The arrow indicates the direction it will go.
You will need a diode that will handle about 3 amps for this application to be safe.
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If Chris Columbus "Discovered" America (with 25 million already here), Can I Go "Discover" Florida?
 
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
See, I told you I was illegitamate...er... I mean illiterate.
Thanks.

Cut to shape, hammer to fit, paint to match /wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif
Project '51 willy's total rebuild /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I simply run three batteries and two leece neville alternators that power a stereo and winch...no normal stereo either. The Jeep itself has its own battery also...they are all individually isolated and there are diodes in the alternator leads to prevent drainage there. If one the starting system battery goed dead...I manually open the hood and switch them temporarily. Oh...no...I had to get out of my seat! What are the odds of leaving my lights on, winch in forward or reverse and having my amp switch stay on when its wired into the keyed on switch? Only in another galaxy.......Its crude, basic, but it works-Flawlessly...with no EXTRA WIRES

CJ-7 10"lift

 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
TR said:
*"I'm that fat, lazy, Cad driving kind of guy, I like it automatic.
Too many switches confuse me. (so does anything to do with a woman or the IRS...)
I was thinking Hobbs switches because of CJ Dave's original design...
Sorry dude! Didn't mean to butcher your schematic....
It is sound thinking, and someone did put a lot of thinking into that design...
Talented bunch on this thread...."*

aaron,
no offence, this is a place to share ideas, and to chop and change as you need is the way it should be.

dan
NECESSITY IS THE MOTHER OF INVENTION
/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gifLET IT SNOW/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
 
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