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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Man, it's about time somebody posted the dual battery system in something besides the written word. There IS one little detail, however that has been in the back of my mind, and that IS....suppose little cousin Leroy sat his butt in your Jeep and played with the headlights, and went off and left them on. the next day, the primary battery is on it's kazooka, and the Jeep won't even fart, much less crank. In that case, the "shoo-fly" around the Hobbs is useless. The pushbutton "shoo-fly" (that's railroadese for SHUNT)needs to get power from TWO sources, and have a diode on each feeder. THAT would be the ultimate setup! And I don't think that I would mix batteries. The secondary battery is supposed to be the accessory battery so you won't play the radio too much, and have to walk home. You can drain it way down if need be./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Farmjeep, when corn season comes around you are going to have all the national magazines interviewing you, and wanting to know how you thought up all this custom Jeep stuff, yet still continue to feed a hungry nation. Raising food and fiber, folks; that's what it's all about./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif I'm still having a devil of a time explaining this to my moonguy /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif crew chief. He claims that the second battery could be down on it's kazooka if Ditzelfritz left the optional hamburger bum warmer on "low" and nobody noticed. So he's saying that to be sure that cranking could take place, that the by-pass needs to get it from either source, with diodes so it won't try to charge, or try to crank the jeep thru the control circuit. Normally, this moonguy/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif is pretty sharp, and he knows how careless his bunch can be about leaving things "on" when they are crocked and hanging around the Jeep. If they have enough beer, then THEY are down on their kazooka./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif What is the drill if cousin Leroy runs the #2 battery completely down?/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif I have it on hard copy, and I don't actually know how to scan anything in. Every time I shut the compooter off, the scanner software goes away./wwwthreads_images/icons/mad.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Actually, BLACKJACK designed a system exactly like that, everything was manual, and the batteries were connected so as to parallel onto a power bus. It was like a helicopter where you get in and flip the switch BJ's setup was for three batteries, but it could have been one hundred, it didn't matter. If he wants battery number two, he flips "2". The control power was multi-sourced and had diodes to prevent feedback. It was bulletproof, but totally manual control./wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Oh, yeah....to answer your question. CONTINUOUS HOLD solenoids are made for.....continuous hold./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif And now how about this little modification....you multi-source the control power using diodes, and the oil pressure switch gets control power from the multi-source circuit. You can also use the multi-source control circuit to bring in the second battery to crank if necessary by using a push button. THIS is the perfect setup. Automatic, yet has all contingencies covered. So take TeamRush's diagram and collect a (+) from each battery with a diode in the line, THEN go to the oil pressure switch, AND have a push button to jump the oil pressure switch in the event that the cranking battery (#1) is on it's butt./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif THIS is the ideal setup./wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif FINALLY!!!!! I SEE the problem here. What I failed to mention was that the #2 battery was for AUXILLARY loads....loads not associated with the original Jeep electrical system. You see, the HEADLIGHTS would be hooked as they normally are...to the #1 battery and stock Jeep system. The BUN WARMER, the HAM RADIO (old one...draws a crapload of amps), and the COFFEE POT. All those loads are separate from the #1 battery and isolated at zero oil pressure. So there are two possibilities: Leroy leaves the headlights on and poops #1 battery...OR little Murgatroyd leaves the bun warmer on and drains #2 battery. The system as displayed by TeamRush, and with my previously added note on the multi-source, diode-protected control circuit, will overcome either of those listed possibilities when equipped with a by-pass momentary on push button. Thank goodness, now these moonguys will quit bothering me and go back to popping brew./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 
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