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· Official Curmudgeon
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Miller Time (Dorian),

I can't get any pictures, I told you he ran a red light to get away. Oh, maybe you meant of the nerfs.
They look like most any of the factory nerfs now. Reason I built my own was I wanted checker plate
recesses in them to give a good place to step. About a year or so after I built mine, now the factory
ones are that way, and I mean identical. Just 3" pipe with tight weld Ls at the end and bolted through
the frame. I'll try to get some pictures, you guys need to see the Taz graphics anyway.
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Hi-idle solenoids are perfect for rigs which have PTO jobs or hydraulic wet kits and need a little bit more RPM......SOOOO much easier than a throttle cable from the winch location or from the operator's platform. You can have SEVERAL switches in different locations as need be./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif I think I have a spare solenoid from the rig days still in my parts cabinet. I always used the Ford solenoids.

CJDave
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Great ideas , I knew this post would fire up the old keyboards.
Jeeps are never finished & jeepers are never done "building" something
for their toys.
KEEP 'EM COMMIN.
I almost forgot.The JOOP on the side that they sell stickers for.....well cherokee/comanche have a chrome emblem on the header panel that fits that.
looks trick,kind of a custom 3d effect.
BWT some of my own mods are
Like I said st. box brace,blazer heater,3/8 1" lift shackles and
hei dist,stainless double front and rear bumpers and nerfs($4.00 yes
$4.00 in all of it),rear hitch,pwr st conversion,2"body lift off a
toyota(free/Just had to take it off),alum diamond plate rockers(f-150
tailgate cover-$5.00),reciever towhook(2"sq tube and welded in a hook
free found the hook),$200.00grant wheel $30.00,33-12.5s ground hawgs
$100 regroved(we have a tire goover),tire carrier($2.00 in metal),used
stereo,cb,ant.,dash led clock,bikinitop,4-15x10 white spokes,generic console,
sun tach,braided stainess for 90% of hoses,york air w/brackets for $100.
Oh yea the jeep came from the yard too,w/ a dead 258,nice hard top&doors,
NEW seats &150K on it.

85'CJ7 258 4" runnin33's
 
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On my 66 CJ-5 I wanted underhood storage for misc tools(other than my tool box in the back) that would be convenient, waterproof and lockable. I went to the surplus store, spent $5 for an ammo can, welded 2 1/4"x1" plates under my heatercore and welded the ammo can to them. Yes, if theives want the stuff bad enough they can get it...but watch out, my "personal protection devices" can reach to where my Jeep is parked, whether at home or at work.....
Mark
66 CJ-5 225 "dauntless" V-6
33-12.5 15 Goodyear Wrangler MT's
2.5" susp. lift
1.5" shackle lift
ALOT of AMMO!!!!!

 
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How to connect the chevy starter on a chevy engine swap ???
Simple - reuse the right fender mounted solenoid. Connect the thick cable *from* the fender mounted solenoid, to the chevy starter solenoid. Then, make a short strap from the chevy solenoid big/thick/fat terminal, to the small terminal marked "S". This will work, because the fat cable from the fender mounted solenoid is only energized during crancking....

I have always wanted good lights in the rear. So, when i swapped-out the manual tranny for an auto, i ran a cable directly from the battery, through the reverse switch on the Megashifter, and mounted 2 55W halogen lights in the rear. They functions as backup lights, but if i need lights in the rear (with the engine off), i just put it in reverse and 2x55W is giving me all the light i need...

Regards,
PerJ (From Norway)

<[email protected]>
Using self-discipline, see http://www.eiffel.com/discipline
 
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Here is a few tricks I have done for Cheap:
-No gas, no Steal, look under the dash at the top of the gas pedal asembly. Undo the cable that leads to the throotle body and slap a lock through the top hole. Now the gas pedal is not opeable, and can not be driven.

-After installing my 3 inch body lift (being replaced in may by hopefully the pro-comp coil conversion) I did not like that gap in the rear of my Jeep between the Frame and the Body. So I bought a Hi-Lift jack (everyone should own one) and took the base plat and the top hook portion off. I purchased a set of the bumper mounts, some strip steel, and a 2" to 3" rubber pipe converter for a toilet. Cut the rubber into semi cirles, place them around the body pucks, put the bumper mounts around the rubber, and cut and drill the strip steel, then attach it to the back of the bumper mounts. With a little fine tuning you will have a nice cover for the gap, and a place to mount your jack.

-After purchasing Turbo-Cities Rock0it Air tube, I had no use for my stock air box. So I pliged the holes with spray paint can tops, and now it is a nice storage space. Just don't put anything that can get a little warm in there. Its not that hot, but it gets warm.

-When I added my full size spare, the third brake light was hitting the tire. So I took two hockey pucks and some new bolts and made a 1" lift for the brake light.

-The space under the ash tray and in front of the shifter was wasted space. I built a H shaped shelf that bolts to the sides of the ash tray/cigerett lighter piece. and just rests on the floor. The middle bar is tilted up and I mounted my CB to the bottom of it. Easy to reach and out of the way.

If I think of any more things I made I'll post them too.

Kirk
95 YJ rio grande


Kirk
95 YJ rio grande
 

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After finding some 2inch square tubing,I made my nerb bars and my body lift. I made a roller fairing for my winch ( they $100 in stores) from drill rod and this weekend I am contruction a rear swing away tire carrier. Something I saw in a mag I would like to try is swing away front fenders for easy access to motor

brownbagg </font color=red>
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif I've toyed with the hood-frontfenders-but-not-grille tilt nose idea. Our International 2000 series trucks all had a one-piece fiberglass nose. Boy was that nice. You could stand between the front tire and the frame and work on that big engine....and...keep it clean easy. The big problem is having enough room to tilt, a garage is not always big enough to do it./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
 

· Official Curmudgeon
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5,207 Posts
I considered the same thing with tilting the hood and front fenders but not the grille when I went to
a 'glass body. I even had a scheme that used a piece of angle formed to go across in front of the
cowl with hood hinges that would let the hood open normally OR tilt forward with the fenders. I
decided it would not be rigid enough and shake all over the place so I bought the AJ's one piece front
end.
 
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I'm considering mounting piano hinges at the rear of the front fender where it bolts to the tub. Then at the front where it mounts i'l weld bolts into the grill. With this setup the fenders will swing out and then when you close them yI'l use wing nuts on the front grill bolts to get easy access opening I don't currently have rocker guards but they will be a consideration if I hinge the fenders since they will need to be split at the seam to open the fenders. I also used the fast idle solinoid to run up the idle when cold and for the on board air. When I installed the glass tub I bought taillights for a semi trailer. 4" round and $5 each at any truck stop. They sit in the hole so they are out of harms way.
I also removed the rear seat and built a big box in the back. It houses my subwoffer and amp(front portion of box. The sterio portion is mounted VERY heavaly seperate from the reas of the box) The top of the box is cabinate gradde oak with many coats of u.v. stable varnish it looks great and locks to keep stuff safe. It also hase channals around the sides so I can mount my camping and off roading gear on top of it ant ther is big eye hooks coming throught the sides to secure it to.

Al
My web page
 
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I really dig that stop sign channel Hi-Lift Jack mount(which I would have heard of that a few months ago). My homespun addition is I modified the swingout tire carrier on my TJ to accept a 33" spare. It cost me about five bucks worth of bolts and washers. I took the whole old tire carrier off the tail gate. undid the silly plastic brake light(If anyone wants it I can give it to ya). I removed the 3 studs that were the old tire carrier(I just used a hammer and pounded them a LOT) I then got 3 3/4inch bolts like 3-4inches long(it was a while ago) and some washers. Put the tire carrier back on the Jeep, and added washers until the 33" tire stopped hitting the bumper.
It goes: Washers..Nut..TIRE..NUT.. I haven't figured out a way to lock the tire up, but I'm sure I can just drilled through one of the nuts and add some air craft cable, but that'll have to wait until spring.

Steve
/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gifJust Empty Every Pocket/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif
 
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Just a few dumb ideas I may or may not have tried yet!

Hand throttle using a bicycle brake lever, didn't cost me a dime.

Rock lights. If you have some old lights kicking around, you could mount them to
the steel body mount brackets on the frame for undercarriage lighting.

Back-up light. Mounted in the centre of the spare tire, rigged to the reverse switch
on the tranny.

Search light. I really want to do this some day. Cut a hole in the cowl on the drivers
side. Insert and weld a steel cylinder. Mount a light in the cylinder that can be
remotely operated. The light would come up out of the cylinder and can move from
side to side. It would have a cap on the top so that it dissapears when not in use.
You could rig up an electric control or a manual control.

Loose shocks for max flex. Drill pin holes in the shock mount studs and secure the
shocks with cotter pins instead of the bolts.

Late CJ, Waggoneer or Ford F-series shock mounts on early CJ front shocks for
long travel shocks.

Cut holes in the tub just behind the seats to allow for long travel shock mounts in
the rear. Build steel covers to weld over them, and cut holes in the covers for
access to the top bolt. You can find plugs for the holes out of other vehicles like
Honda cars.

My plastic stopper on my throttle linkage (at the gas pedal) broke off while driving
down the highway once. I got home by using a pair of vice grips to keep the cable
from slipping through the hole in the gas pedal. Later I used a rouch
clip....er...ah.....aligator clip to do the job. The aligator clip has not failed in the two
or three years that it has been there. As an anti-theft device, the clip can be
removed in a second and put in your pocket. The cable is now loose and will not
activate the throttle when the pedal is used.

Rocker protection. 2"x3"x3/16" mild steel angle iron. Works like a charm and is
cheap. The angle iron I used measures 7/16" at the angle.

Cut the lips off the fenders for better clearance on tight trails. It also helps save the
rest of the fender because often you can wreck the whole fender when the lip is hit
and buckles.

After my light switch blew out for the second time, I removed it, cut a square hole
in the drivers side of the dash and made an aluminum panel with individual toggle
switches for the each set of lights. I also used a breaker for the seperate fuse
panel I installed for the panel.

$2 marine CB. Bought at a garage sale, it works just as good as any new CB as
far as I'm concerned and the circuit boards are protected against moisture as it's a
marine model.

Sub woofer box. There is plenty of room under the back floor. Cut a section of
floor out, build a box and weld it into the floor (with support). Use the cut out
section of floor as a door or lid.

Umm.........a whole buch of other stuff I can't think of at the moment.

jo-jo
'77 CJ5 Fozzy Locker
20 degree RTI 1250
 
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12 Disk Changer:
I mounted the changer inside a 50 cal ammo can (available at surplus stores for under 10 bucks) and mounted the can to the floor behind the back seat on the left side. The lid can't be opened when the tailgate is closed due to overhang of the tailgate latch mechanism - just lock the tailgate and you automatically lock the ammo box. The can also has a rubber gasket seal to protect from moisture.

Easy waterproof and theft-resistant mount!


Chuck
1995 YJ 4.0 5spd, 3" body lift, 32" Bridgestones (w/damn 3.07 gears), Durabak
 

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I wanted more light inside but did not want a roll bar mount. I found a lighted rear view mirror at a junk yard for $10. I needed a new mirror anyway. I routed the wireing around the windshield moulding. It is not hooked up to the dome light switch, just the switches on the mirror. Works great and plenty of light where you need it./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

Patrick Kulas
85 CJ-7
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Thats so easy it qualifies for the /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gifwhy the h*** did'nt I think of that/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
Kinda tough/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif finding things in my console after dark/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif
Maybe I'll light the console itself/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif
Keep the ideas rolling!!!!!!!!!/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

85'CJ7 258 4" runnin33's
 

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I started the swing away tire mount today, cutting, welding, grinding, I was good. Stood back to look at my progress and relize I forgot to allow for the rim offset /wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif Where my torch.

brownbagg </font color=red>
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
LOL/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gifI did the same thing myself/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif
I guess neither of us had the mooncrew/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif to help us at that time.

85'CJ7 258 4" runnin33's
 

· Official Curmudgeon
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5,207 Posts
And that reminds me... When I had to repace the windshield, I had the mirror mounted much lower,
just an inch or two above the padded dash ('58 Desoto style). Now I can see the right front fender and
the mirror doesn't block out the traffic lights.


 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
That would be /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif but would ruin my lighted mirror thingy that my non-batlike eyes could use in the dark./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

85'CJ7 258 4" runnin33's
 

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My rear view mirror kept falling off, so I mounted it to the top of the frame where the footman loop is (I never lower the windshield anyway). I had to mount the bracket and spin the stem upsided down so I could get it to move into the correct position. Now I can see lots more out of my front window and still see a good rear-view.

Keep on Jeepin'
Scott
 
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