You're haveing to use Wide Open Throttle (WOT) to clear a flooded condition.

1. What's the fuel pump pressure?
2. What's the return ruel line pressure?
3. What's the return fuel line diameter?
4. Have you changed the IAC?
5. Have you monitored in "Road Test" mode the comptuer tos see what happening when cold?
6. It's running too darn rich at cold start-up.
7. Have you put it on a scope to see what's happening when cold?
8. What's the CTO voltage when cold?
9. Is there an injector leaking?
10.Have yiou examined the injector spray patterens?
12.That's about all I can think off the top of my head....

 

Thanks LEVE...hoped you would come to my rescue.

Yes I am clearing the flood condition with WOT.

1.& 2. I went through checking the pump pressure and return
line pressure with Howell in the beginning. Both
within spec.

3. I do have a question regarding return line diameter. It
is the stock return line, which I assumed didn't need to
be changed. Also if the diameter were too small or too
large, wouldn't this give you an undesireable return
line pressure reading? Meaning that if the return line
pressure is ok, then the return line diameter should be
ok.

4. & 5. Did not do.

6. Sorry for the mixup but she starts up fine when cold
with no black smoke or fuel smell. ONLY when shes warm
or hot does she seem to be flooded.

7. & 8. Have not checked yet.

9. The system remains pressurized (from what I can
remember). If an injector(s) were leaking, the fuel
pressure would drop off rather quickly....correct?

10. The injector spray pattern is good.

One more thing.
Again, once she is warm, if I turn the key and start her up immediately she sometimes will start. But if I turn the ignition to on with any hesitation, or let the system pressurize (until pump stops running) and try to start it, it will be flooded.

Regardless it is flooding at warm/hot start up for some reason.

Thanks for your time, help, and knowledge. I will check out the other conditions you have mentioned as time permits.

btw - number 11 is ok, its 13 you should worry about.
j/k

 

I have this exact same problem. Did you figure out what was wrong with yours? I'm stumped. When I start it in the morning it starts great, but if i try to start it after i drive it for a little bit, it floods. please email me at Hatzq68@aol.com if you have an answer. Thanks.

Donny

 

My Howell system had a couple of problems when it was first installed.
It would flood on a hot start and it would surge dramatically at idle when cold.
The fix was to adjust the idle speed up from 550 rpm to 700 rpm. This procedure was discovered after a rather short but sweet call to Troy at Howell.
There is a procedure for this that includes popping out a small plug that covers the idle screw, removing the throttle position wires with the engine off, installing a jumper wire into the test port, starting the engine and adjusting the idle screw, shutting off the engine and replacing the idle position wires and removing the jumper wire. That’s straight outa my noggin so don’t quote me verbatim.
The exact procedure can be found in the Howell installation instructions or from Howell themselves.

 

Oh yea,
To start after it is flooded you can do 1 of 2 things,
1. Remove the injector wires and start the engine to clear the excess fuel.
2. Start the engine with the pedal all the way to the floor. According to Howell, the computer will go into flood mode and shut off the fuel pump and injectors.
I have not been able to force my system into flood mode ever but the first suggestion worked every time.

 

One more,
Try removing your battery cable from your battery over night and let the computer reset itself to the default program. If the engine still runs poorly after you have run it for a while, you may have the wrong fuel curves programmed into the chip or your injectors themselves might be the wrong size. I started with 305 injectors on my 304 and move up to 350 injectors when I installed my 360. Howell may have installed the wrong injectors for your application.
The proper fuel mixture ratio is controlled by the computer, which uses status feedback from the O2 sensor (make sure its close to the head for max heat), coolant sensor (keep your radiator full), map sensor (uses full manifold vacuum), and the throttle position sensor to control the mixture. Failure of any one of these sensors can cause a problem; although I have run without my O2 sensor before and could hardly notice a difference.
My supply and return lines are stock jeep (5/16 sup. 1/4 ret.). They supply the throttle body that feeds a 360.
I currently have NO problems with my Howell system whatsoever.

 

Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I have still not figured it out and it is starting to drive me crazy. Let me know, thanks.

Donny