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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Beam this in, Scotty! Yes...you want two springs...one inside the other. Get springs which are fine wound....some which do not get a lot stronger when stretched...they stay about the same. It is easier on your foot, and on the carb shaft. You see, Scotty....the distributor can drop in on any gear tooth, but the main thing is to have the rotor on the #1 wire when the crank says TDC. So...once you set it in there and get it close as you can, here is what you do. Get an old spark plug and stick in the #1 wire and put the plug where it gets a good ground. THEN...with the crank on TDC and the number one jug at the top of the compression stroke, turn on the key. DON'T crank...just turn on the key. Set the distributor tie-down bolt just loose enough so you can swing the distributor. Now....move the distributor in a CLOCKWISE DIRECTION about ONE TERMINAL's worth on the cap...Then, slowly go back counterclockwise till you see the plug fire. try it again if you don't see the plug fire. WHEN YOU DO SEE THE PLUG FIRE, that is zero....then go just about 1/4" more. The distributor tie-down bolt should be snug, but should still allow you to turn the distributor as needed when the engine starts. MAKE DARN SURE THE #1 JUG IS AT TDC OF THE COMPRESSION STROKE AND NOT THE EXHAUST STROKE./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 

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Re: HELP...It is almost ready to start....TEAMRUSH

/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif Er....Scotty? I think you may have missed the mark here. What TeamRush wants you to do is spin the engine oil pump using a long rod that has a screwdriver-like end on it and can engage the oil pump shaft. You can run this long rod down through the distributor hole and turn it clockwise using an electric drill. Once you do this, and you can hear by the way the drill is pulling down that the oil pressure has come up, run it for a minute or so(don't smoke the drill, if it is getting hot...QUIT!)to get oil to every part of the engine. Then pull the rod out and install your distributor. Pre-Lubers are for those really high-performance mills where the crankshaft pressure is tremendous and the valve train loads are high as well. In that case a pre-luber makes a lot of sense, but not in your case./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 
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