I had the same problem. Just ripped apart two bone yard front ends two make one good one. I took a plastic mallet, 3lb sledge, used the fear of heat, air chisle and every other f#$%in thing i could think of, with no luck. A friend of mine (former ford mechanic) lent me his tool SILDE HAMMER. he found something that would thread to the spindle and went from there. Three good whacks and it was off. Spent three hours trying everything else and three minutes with the slide hammer.

 

wrap that spindle end to end in some thick shirts or rags and whack it good close to the flange left and right then up and down. if you're really queeasy bout hittin it stick a block of wood next to it then beat the hell outta it

 

Well, like I said, a couple hours with the slide hammer and nothing.

I could take my 3 lb sledge and just start whaling on the spindle. But that guarantees me the purchase of a new spindle, new innner bearing, new seal, and even then not sure it is gonna come off. going to talk with a guy I know who owns a good offroad shop here.

I'll let you know the outcome. Remember if this side is like this, I anticipate the other side will be too. I guarantee the anti-seize will be used on re-assembly. Jeez

Muddy, you are right, I was not anticpating having to put the spindle studs back in with everything still in the way, but I got it. Wasn't too bad. The worst part is spending many hours and not getting anywhere. that's why I use this as a lesson. When those ****as come off, they are getting the treatment to help ensure I have an easier time next go around.

 

Hey Guys...haven't posted in a while...

I just had this same $@#$ problem. I replaced ball joints last week and thought I had hit a brick wall when I made it to the spindle. Nothing budged...heat....penetrant...wood block around the edge...nada...zip...finally I took the rubber mallet and starting giving the spindle a few good whacks...two from the top then two from the bottom then two from each side....SLOWLY it loosened up.

So my vote is for BFRM

Then I proceeded to almost break the rented ball joint press...but that's a different story....

BTW, the stupid auto hub was a real PITA to get out too....I guess when things have been stuck together for 14 years nothing comes apart easy

 

Go with what 86Convert said. Not only get the slide hammer, but get the separate spindle adapter. I had to do this a few months back, these two tools made a world of difference. Use the adapter and slide hammer to pop it back on too. Gets it nice and snug.

 

I had one stick also.I used a big ass old screwdriver and drove it in behind the spindle at different points to get it going.Then beat the hell out of it with a block of wood an BFH and it popped off.A chisel with a really flat edge would work also.Needs to be fairly flat to get in behind the spindle.

Good luck

PS drink more beer that usually helps,well not really but it does'nt hurt anything either.

 

Unfortunately I had tried this approach for hours before moving on to the slide hammer.

If anyone ever questions whether to use anti-seize lube on something, this is a major example.

 

So did the slide hamer + attachment work, or are you still trying to get it apart?

 

Yeah, the suspence is killing us.
I take it, this weekend will find you attempting to remove the spindle again?
Mine are tight, but they've always come off.
Squirt that thing with your favorite penetrating lube all week before you try to remove it again.
You know it's got to be only 1 tap away from coming off!

I too have found that a few taps on the outboard end of the spindle helps.
Just wrap it well with a rag or whatever, so you don't chew up the threads.

 

I'm not sure if it helped or not but just before I managed to knock mine loose, I was using a very thin,flexible putty scraper and the mallet around the edges. Tapping the scraper under the edge of the spindle.

 

Did you get the spindle tool? Don't use the three jaw puller that comes with the slidehammer. It's a PITA. Use the spindle tool with the slide hammer. EASY MONEY It'll probably get off in couple of whacks

 

Beat the

out of it with a piece of wood and a BFH! It will come off!

 

It's not off yet. Put it all back together for now. I have been keeping my eye out for the spindle tool. I have not seen one.

 

OK, found some pics of the 4WD spindle puller, basically just a big socket that screws on to the threads looks like. Then it has a hole for a slide hammer to screw into. So, if I can find that, looks like it should be around $25. (remember I was using slide + 2/3 jaw puller attachment)

Also saw a pic of another tool I need to try and fashion myself, a "lock nut index ring removal tool". Ever fight with one of those, how frustrating to try and pull that loose, the grease is providing some suction, and between the little stud on the lock nut fitting into one of the index ring holes and the tab on the index fitting into the flat groove on the spindle, man, sometimes I get that thing easy, othertimes, I struggle with it.

 

"lock nut index ring removal tool". Ever fight with one of those,.....
I've always used my snap ring pliers to get that off.

 

That's the one Juice. You should be able to get it at (I hate to say it) DA ZONE

 

Ahh, crap, I was just there. I'll go look it up online first.

WD-40, I've used my snap pliers too, but sometimes it's just a bugger to get out of there. Once I fashion the tool (won't be complicate), and test that IT WORKS, I'll post a pic.

 

ahahah, yeah that lock ring can be a mutha! i usually push one of the tabs and cock it one way, but then when i go to grab the side the pushed out toward me it grabs onto the spindle because of the angle and I have to start over

It's always an adventure, maybe a magnet on a rod would be the way to go

 

In reply to:

Also saw a pic of another tool I need to try and fashion myself, a "lock nut index ring removal tool".

[/ QUOTE ]
If you are talking about the lock nut in the hub I jsut bent up a hanger to get that out works great for me....

 

I think we are talking the same thing, it's not a lock nut though, its the ring in between the two nuts. That "tool" is basically that, a coat hangar bent in the shape of a long U, with little bends at the end.

I now have the slide hammer, again, and the proper 4WD spindle puller. It is larger than I thought. It is actually a huge 2-3 pound "socket" with threads. It attaches to the hammer, and the added weight, I am hoping, will do the trick.

I love the ZONE!!

Nobody tell Steve. Here's why:

The slide hammer is again a loaner, $20. If I choose to keep it, it's mine, case included.

The spindle tool is a loaner, $25, basically the same cost as a spindle nut tool, if I choose to keep it. Both are brand new.

zone zonezonezonezonezonezonezonevvvvzonezone

autozone.

kicks ass on NAPPY! There web site sucks by the way.

 

yeah, and now that they carry Perfect Circle stuff, I might go in there for things other than loaner tools

 

In reply to:

The slide hammer is again a loaner, $20. If I choose to keep it, it's mine, case included.

[/ QUOTE ]

Holy sh!t only $20. When I did the loaner it was closer to $100, but it did come with the 3 jaw puller that made pulling the spindle needle bearings a breeze. If it was only $20, I would have kept it.

 

Yep, I discovered that. What you want is just the slide hammer, OEM number 27033. The three jaw puller attachment is $80!

The 4WD spindle puller is good for several dana axles not just the 44, the OEM number is 27104, $25.

By the way, in case my needle bearings are in bad shape, where did you pick up new ones, and are they Timken or ???

 

Spindle Bearings

On my way man.
Pic and part no. in a couple minutes.

OK. Done. SKF. Part no. BK1. IIRC, ~$12.99 per kit.
Includes the 3 noted parts and the spindle bearing (not shown).
By far the best quality and most complete kit I've found, and it's made in the good ole U.S.A.
Most others will have a generic 1-piece seal and "wear-ring".
These parts are exact matches to what came on mine from the factory.

Note how well the metal "cup-washer" (need the manual for correct part name

) covers the area inside the knuckle where the axle shaft goes through.
Very little chance of foreign particle intrusion, especially with the proper dust seal.

 

I'm sure WD40 will take care of the P/N but they were Timken from your new favorite place.