It's the odd/even thing you have to worry about. RRich says to make sure they rebuilt it with the proper odd-fire parts and not a combination of both odd and even.

 

You might want to review this to make sure you have the right parts: http://tellico.off-road.com/ubbthre...oard=offroadjeepjeepster&Number=818069&page=2&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=0&fpart=all

 

that certainly makes everything very clear. I ordered everything new from Advance and told them to take numbers from a 76 Buick Skylark Odd Fire, so hopefully they will be the right parts, but I will print out these pics to take with me and double check. Thanks!

 

If it's going on with the 2G carb -
Be sure to replace the HEI advance diaphram with a Crane adjustable advance, install the small limiter cam that comers with it, and follow my instructions for adjusting it properly. Otherwise you won't like the way it operates, stumble, less power etc.
Last I saw those instructions were on the AJC Southwest Chapter's website.

 

Make sure you look at the dist and cap closely, and if after a couple of minutes you scratch your head and wonder how it works, then it is an odd fire. I ordered a new one from advance (30-1693) and it ended up being an even fire. Found out after I could only get it running on 4 cylinders. Got another under the same number and it is the right one. I read the posts and Rich's instructions many times and I still neglected to verify that I had the right parts.

 

well, I picked up the parts this afternoon, and everything looks just like it is suppose to according to the pictures. I guess I will start on the removal of the old Prestolite tonight...I am looking forward to seeing how the HEI makes it run...

 

It will help if you know which one to make #1. Looking at the top of the distributor you will see four in a row, then a space, then two in a row, then a space. Mine is in the third position of the four in a row going clockwise. Everyother one will work for the #1 position as long the rotor is lined up to that post and the engine is top center #1. I hope I explained it so everyone can understand.

 

thanks...that explains a lot...wish me luck!

 

Thanks Reno - that really helps folks from getting it "out of sequence" and having that sort of letdown.

Maybe that should be included with the HEI instructions too. Maybe mark those 3 as the ones to use for #1.

Is anybody collecting all the HEI stuff and putting it where it can be located easily?

 

Here's a pic of a properly installed odd-fire HEI in a 225.

 

Looks great...but how do you have your fuel lines run? I can't really see from the pic. I am standing here wondering how I am going to reroute mine. It just so happens I have an inline filter right where the new HEI goes...!

 

i just replaced mine with a rubber fuel hose, i thought i would have vapor locking problem but i havent yet. id post a picture but i dont have one.

 

You may want to consider an electric pusher pump at the tank instead of trying to get the fuel lines past it. I don't like fuel lines so close to the manifold, rubber or steel.
I used one of the cheapie electric pumps from Kragen, about $30. There's 2 kinds, get the low pressure one - I think it's 3-5 lbs, not the 5-7 lbs.

It's so cheap I bought 2, one as a spare for under the seat.
So far the spare has come in handy twice - not for me, but for trail fixing other folks.

 

Thanks RRich, I was just thinking of doing that myself. Did you run the line up the passenger side frame rail? Is there anyway to insulate the line?

 

I don't think I ran a new line, just hooked into it in back right in front of the tank and rerouted it from behind the engine to the carb. Made a bracket to mount the pump on the frame high up out of the way, isolated the pump from the bracket with rubber bushings so it doesn't make noise.
Also I put an in-line filter by the carb too. Plugged off the return line as well.

 

71MtnJeepster:

Sorry for the delay, but I didn't get to check the fuel line until today. From what I can tell, it's the stock routing up the back side of the engine from the passenger side frame rail. What's different for now is a previous owner removed the mechanical fuel pump due to a home-brewed power steering pump bracket that got in the way of it, (I believe that this rig originally had manual Saginaw and was later converted to power Saginaw). A block-off plate was in place when I picked it up and an electric fuel pump was being used. I have since purchased a proper p/s bracket and added a mechanical fuel pump. A fuel line was bent to snake from the pump up and under the upper radiator hose, I think comming up on the passenger side. It will connect to a hose, then fuel filter then hose to the carb. I will have to figure what to do with the fuel line to get it to the mechanical fuel pump. I had a fuel line put on the driver side and go to the pump on my '66. Not sure if the '71 will keep original routing over top of engine to fuel pump then back up to carb though.

 

ok guys, I am getting close to being finished...I have decided to install and electric fuel pump, and all I have left to do is to wire it and I will be finished (I hope).

Ok, now for the problems I have had with the HEI conversion:

When you guys said it was tight clearance with the new HEI cap and the manifold, YOU WEREN'T KIDDIN'! I can BARELY move the distributor at all due to the cap hold down post, but it looks like I can't grind anymore on the manifold. I hope I am really close on the timing, otherwise I'll have to rearrange the cap to a different location.

Ok, problem 2. This may sound stupid, but where/how to I wire up the 3 connector pigtail coming out of the base of the new HEI? I couldn't find instructions anywhere...and I also have a red wire that came off the old coil and went to the starter...where does it go? I will post pics when I get done...thanks for all your help!
Mark

 

Take a close look underneath the "lump" on the side of the cap, under where it says Batt and Tach or DEC.
Close in to the cap under the lump is where the connector from the base goes.

The wire from the old coil to the starter solenoid - ditch it, no longer needed.

Be sure to bypass or eliminate the ignition resistor, the HEI needs a full 12 volts.

I think if the distributor is clocked in a slightly different position you have more adjustment, not much, but enough.