Re: Going to 35\'s-need some opinions

with the t-18 and dana 300, i'd go 4.10's if you run on the highway. the granny gear and the low range of the 300 will give you plenty of gear reduction when off pavement. i have seen dana 30's with 35's on them but they don't like them. i would spring for a 44 as a minimum. i guess it really depends on weather or not you will actually "use" the jeep. if you just stick to the light trails you can probably make it with the 30. if you go soa you will need some sort of a trac bar to control axle wrap. i sugguest a 2.5" lift spring for the soa. i run a soa with rear cj springs in the front and yj rear springs in the rear and i can still scrub the fenders with a 3" body lift. so the 2.5" lift springs won't be too much. as for lockers i like full detroits for their strength and reliability. another thing is if you havn't already add a full cage. all of these mods are nice but remember safety first. hope this helps.

brian wilson
80 cj5 "high 5"
stretched to 100" wb
efi351w/np435/d300/d44/d60/detroits/4.56/35tsl's/

 

Re: Going to 35\'s-need some opinions

Engine, trans, t-case sound good. For axles, I'd sell the stock axles and get Grand Wagoneer D44's, they are cheep and easy to get ahold of, parts are easy to get, if you truss them they are most likely stronger than the 20. You should probably get 4.56's if you do a lot of highway. For lockers if you have the money get Air lockers front and rear since they are like open diffs on the highway, though if they are too pricy I like the detroit/ no silp combo though rember the no slip is as storong as he carrier. If you do a spring over expect to spend big bucks and to be tinkering all the time to get it right. RE offers a soa kit and More offers a Steering correction kit that garuentees no bump steer, looks like you will have a cool rig when it's done.
Barrel Roll

'95 YJ Totaled!

Currently looking for a 16 year old jeep chick with a jeep

 

Re: Going to 35\'s-need some opinions

good luck finding a wag with both pumkins in the correct location for a cj. the wagoneer 20 has thicker tubes and a truss shouldn't be needed and all wags with a 20 rear have the front dana44 pumkin on the drivers side which won't work with the cj dana300. i run 4.56 gears in my cj with a np435 4 speed and the 4.10's will be better on the highway. my jeep is screaming at highway speeds and the 4.10's will bring the rpms down some. the 4.56 wouldn't be so bad if you were running a o/d tranny but the t-18, of coarse is not.

brian wilson
80 cj5 "high 5"
stretched to 100" wb
efi351w/np435/d300/d44/d60/detroits/4.56/35tsl's/

 

Re: Going to 35\'s-need some opinions

Thought about the waggie axles, but I want something that is factory (CJ)width--the waggie axles would have to be narrowed, wouldn't they?

Don't you mean 4.10's if I do a lot of highway? I think 4.56 may be spinning the engine to fast at highway speeds.

I don't care for the ARB's. I've heard stories about problems with air lines and switches.

I'm interested in learning more about the kits you mentioned. Do MORE or RE have a website/catalog? And thanks for the input, it's greatly appreciated!

Greg
89 XJ-stock, 83 CJ-7/4.0HO-t18-d300-locked-2.5" rancho-32 bfg mt, 79 Blazer/454-t400-np205-locked-4w disc-35 bfg mt, 67 CJ-5/231-t18-d18-4.88-front disc-rear 11" drum/front locked/30-9.50's

 

Re: Going to 35\'s-need some opinions

Thanks for the info, it is appreciated.

The Jeep does get used, and the cage is already there(1st mod), thanks for asking!

Wow, you still scrub 35's with SOA and 3" body lift? I'm glad you told me that! I've got rancho 2.5" springs on it now, so those might just stay, instead of Yj springs. Whaddaya think?

Looks like 4.10's are the way to go. I agree that the 6.32 1st gear and low range provides enough gear reduction.

I am kinda leaning to a custom 44 as I (guess?) can get it setup for a spring over already with the pinion angle and castor/camber dialed in for the lift/tire combo.

What kind of problems did you run into with your SOA? Anything you would do different? Do you use a rear antihop bar? Maybe I won't need one using the 2.5" lift springs?

Which tsl's are you running? I want a 35x12.50 (no wider) and I think the ssr is the only tsl has got (I don't count thornbirds-ack!), may go with the BFG MT.

Greg
89 XJ-stock, 83 CJ-7/4.0HO-t18-d300-locked-2.5" rancho-32 bfg mt, 79 Blazer/454-t400-np205-locked-4w disc-35 bfg mt, 67 CJ-5/231-t18-d18-4.88-front disc-rear 11" drum/front locked/30-9.50's

 

Re: Going to 35\'s-need some opinions

i have the stock springs on my soa.. and i rub all over.. and that is just playing in the parking lot.. /wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif.. i would go with d44 front.. get one and cut it down.. a good driveline shop should be able to do this and set up for your install.. known several people that have done theirs that way.. and all worked out great.. for the rear.. i would keep the amc 20 with the one piece shafts.. what do you need the full floater for? you are not towing.. and the shafts are the same size as the 20's.. i dont see you snapping a shaft.. ujoints and ring and pinions usually go first.. not always... but mostly.. since they are the weaker links..
if you do go with a wagoneer axle.. its not that much wider than stock cj axles.. and if you keep your tire width down.. it wouldnt be that wide.. just say this cause if you got a good deal on a front and rear (matching set) that you could use.. you would save money in the long run just running them..
remember.. when you shorten that d44.. it becomes a custom axle.. meaning you cant get cheap parts for it.. when they break.. the closer you keep things to stock form.. the cheaper they are to replace when broken..
just a thought..

survival is instinct, but living takes guts

http://www.jeepgod.net

 

Re: Going to 35\'s-need some opinions

i run 35x15 tsl's. the only problem i ran into when doing my soa was rear axle wrap. i broke quite a few rear driveshafts and toasted a few rear pinion yokes too. the best setup i have found is the trac bar that sam's offroad sells. i didn't buy one but i built my own. the shackle mounted at the forward end allows the bar to control wrap yet allow full suspension flex. i have tried many setups and this is by far superior to any of the others. the rancho 2.5 lift springs will work but they are known for thier lack of flex and poor ride. a skyjacker softride kit would be alittle nicer or if you don't mind a little more work i like the kit for the yj better. if you already have the rancho kit i would probably use it and you could always change it later. jeep god is right in that swapping axles from an existing vehicle may be better. if you run a late 70's wag front end and a 80's rear yes they will be wider but if you stick to a 35x12.50 then it wouldn't be too wide. i run scout width axles and my 35x15 swampers on 15x11" rims stick out pretty far but i have seen people run scout axles with 12.50" width tires and it's not too bad. the good thing about this is you can probably get both axles used, set them up with gears, lockers, new bearings, seals, brakes etc. and still come out cheaper than just buying 1 custom axle. you can also offset your cost by selling your current axles. the amc20 with 1 piece axles should sell realatively easy. this swap may not be best for your personal needs but i just wanted to give you something to think about. as for tires you will want a radial being that it sees quite a bit of street use. the bfg is a good performer on and off road but i have seen more bfg's with cut sidewalls than any other tire. i have heard and read good things about the new goodyear mt/r's and they are supposed to have a very good sidewall. i do run with a guy with a set of these on his samurai and he has had no problems but then again i have never seen a samurai cut a tire either.

brian wilson
80 cj5 "high 5"
stretched to 100" wb
efi351w/np435/d300/d44/d60/detroits/4.56/35tsl's/

 

Re: Going to 35\'s-need some opinions

The T-18 and 300 are great, put a twin stick on it, you'll love it. I broke 2 30s and sheared the stock axles in the 20 then broke a moser axle. Time to upgrade. I went with the Scout Dana 44s and kept the stock CJ knuckles. Why in the world would you want to cut them down? The axles are just right for me. Wider is better! My 35s rub a little(4"spring & 1" body lift) when I cross up the axles, need a little fender trimming. Go with the detroits, you can always kick the front out when you need to. I'm very happy with my set up and don't plan on changing anything for a while! Good Luck!

Dave
79CJ7/304/T-18/D300/R9000s/D44s/Detroits/35s/Xenon/Optima/9000winch & some really cool SWB*BBS stickers!

 

Re: Going to 35\'s-need some opinions

you wont rub if tyou use the rancho springs.. they dont flex much.. stock yj springs do not give enough lift for 35's. I have 4" skyjacker springs, a SOA, and a shackle reversal, trimmed fenders, and i still rub front and rear.
keep the amc 20 with 1 pc shafts.. the floater kit will be no help when you bend an axle tub(the most common breakage of the amc 20). dont worry about cutting down a dana 44.. it's easy..really it is.. best part is you can do almost all the work while you drive the vehicle yet.
really you only have a couple choices..run scout dana 44's front and rear, or cut down a 44 for the front.. anything else will cost more in the long run. yes.. 4.10 gears=good for 35's
run detroits front and rear.. work good.. last long time

~~Elusive~~
tj-7..tellico tested, uwharrie safaried, FOR SALE!/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif..see it at http://www.jeepgod.net
oh yeah, and a 2000 tj, 4.0, dana 44, nv3550