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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the option of building a 1324 cc or a 1298cc engine.
The 1298cc is Fuel Injected and the 1324 is carbed.

The 1298 has a 2 mm shorter stroke than the 1324
I want to keep the FI if at all possible.
I don't mind boreing----Shaveing-----Decking----Cam---Flat tops

Maybe going 10-1 like the swift DOHC.
IF I do any of this, what is my ecm going to say about it?
What to do......What to do......?
 

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The one on the right clearly has more meat where it counts. With proper rod prep, i'd go with that one.

Which is which? I'd guess the right one is the later FI rod? Are you sure its a G13A?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Both rods are from G13A.
I have not torn the G13B apart--- I am still driving it.
Just wondering if the lighter rod would be better at higher rpms due to the lighter rotating mass.
Both of these engines are high mileage engines--so both type rods appear to work well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So how did this Stroked motor work? Any power diff?
Did you use the EFI or carb?
What do you think about using flat top pistons with the 1298 crank, the conn rods out of the 1324 the head from the 1298 and the block from the 1324?
 

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I did notice a difference between the 1298 and the 1324. the 1324 would seem to lug and pull at lower rpms, but that may have been other factors as well. (such as valve timing) there is no difference between it, and a 1324 other than what it says on the side of the block. it is still running. I am hard on the motor and it has held together well. i just realized that the motor has been running for a year and a half (I wouldd have been happy to have gotten thru the weekend with it)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did you ever put together the engine in the following Quote?
If so, how did it work? Is it an interference engine now?

"i just trial fitted my 1298 block with my 1324 crank conecting rods and pistons so far everything fits the pistons do not stick above the block and it seems to clear the bottom so it looks like there realy is no difference in the block it is the conecting rods and / or the pistons that make up for the .060 longer throw of the 1324 motor "

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just found out that the FSM says that the B Model Is taller at the lobe by .6 mm. And the Cam timing is different although it gives no specs on this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wake up-----It is saturday.

I know there is more knowledge out there on this subject------
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Please look at my first post in this thread, then the post in this thread about the pistons. Thanks for any pointers you can give.
Dale
 

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Ok, here goes . From what I understand , the stock EFI won't handle high compression ratio's as the injectors are not rated to handle it . The entire throttle body is also not rated for that volume of air . The 1298 bottom end is somewhat balanced better , I'd be looking closely at the cranks for differences . If the 1298 is fitted with a 16 weight crank , use that for the base and go from there with the rods . You can restroke it and balance the mass as well as fit the rods to the journal size . Just remember , when you alter oem geometry be prepared to pay for it . Also, the rods in the 1324 are fairly beefy compared to the 1298's which are intentionally lighter .

Sarge
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just put the 1298 EFI manifold and throttlebody on the 1324.
Parts changed include:
Distributor-
Cover plate for old mechanical fuel pump.
Manifold and TB
Water manifold (Under intake)
Valve cover
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Comparison--
1298
Compression= 180 180 180 190
Measured run =50mph
No clutch slippage.
------------------------------------------------
1328
Compression= 180 180 180 180
Measured run= 55mph
Clutch slippage in 4 gears.
--------65 after changing oil soaked clutch
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Conclusion= more power causing slippage (Same clutch on both engines)

 
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