A few basics.
I think most Binders will agree that RUST is the #1 Scout enemy. Start with the frame and check all attachment points, springs, body, etc.. Check for straight body panels, bondo, insure the doors fit correctly, this could be a wreck/rollover tip-off, or improper rust repair. The mechanics are usually of the least concern due to the robust engine and transmission combinations. A few notes...check for a rusty fuel tank, very common. Plastic replacements are available now. If the vehicle is a late model 345 V-8 4bbl., check for a leaky Carter Thermoquad carb. This carb has a leak prone plastic center. Problems with non-operational lights, turn signals, etc.. are usually rusty ground/wiring problems. I have had my 1979 Scout II for almost a year. It had sat in a barn (would not start) for over 11 years when I bought it. I put in a new fuel pump and ran a line to a jerry can, and she fired right up! I added a new fuel tank (plastic, $135.00 Lightline of LA) Edelbrock performer carb (with adapter) and dumped the old exhaust and installed a dual system. A few other hoses, belts and minor details and I was in business! The rust free California body cost $1,000.00, I have a good running Scout for less than $2,000.00 Good luck, try to get a rust free platform to build on.
Mark
Steve Mcqueen fan.
