[Guest]

Heyhey all,
First, this is my first post here and it looks like a great forum with some even better info about Jeeps. Just like to say glad to be here. Second, I have a Jeep question from all you experts out there. I have a 1994 Jeep Wrangler (YJ) that I bought from my sister for 800 bucks. A really great deal for me. My question is this. From the time I bought this Jeep from her the process for starting it was as follows. I would put the key in the ignition and turn it to acc. At that point the seat belt buzzer comes on but if you try to start it right then it would not, but after about 30 to 45 seconds I would hear the fuel pump or something near the back of the Jeep start making a kind of clicking sound. After that stopped the check engine light would come on and the Jeep would start right up. So as of about a week ago I don't get that "clicking" sound anymore nor do I get the check engine light anymore, nor will my Jeep start anymore. Everything comes on fine like normal just no check engine light or no start. Now I'm not sure if this thing is fuel injected or a fuel pump. What I'm looking for is some info that can point me in the right direction. I would like to fix whatever it is myself rather than paying anyone 250-500 bucks for something I can do myself. If you can shead any light on my situation please do. Thanks alot and I look forward to any replies.

Tommy

 

[Guest]

Hey

My hunch is that the fuel pump is bad but there would be some things I would check first.
1)I would open up the hood and pop the cover off of the power distribution block the one with all the big fuses in front of the battery. At that point I would switch the fuel pump relay with the horn relay and try to honk the horn(you don't want to blow your horn relay immediatly if something is wrong with the system) that is if the horn currently works. If it doesn't honk then you know the relay is bad. If it honks then I would try starting the jeep with the horn relay just for kicks(who knows if current draw makes a difference or not)
2) I would check the computer of the jeep and see if it can give me any indications of why its wouldn't be starting. You can do this at home by yourself all you have to do is put your key in the ignition and turn it to the start/on position and back four times in sequence and on the fourth time leave the key in the start/on position. Then you watch for you check engine light to blink out engine codes.You need to count those blinks. It will give you rapid blinks and a slight pause in between numbers and a little longer pause between codes almost like morse code. Example .... ... .. .... .... ..... (4) (3) 43 (2) (4) 24 (4) (5) 45

Sorry if this is hard to understand.

Hope this helps
GreenEugene

 

[raymo]

Not to confuse things, but it will have a fuel pump and is fuel injection. The fuel pump should be in the tank. It is an electronic pump. It pumps fuel from the tank to the fuel rail near the intake on the engine. When you turn the key on it should cycle the pump to pressurize the fuel. Then the fuel injectors allow the pressurized fuel into the intake when it is starting/started.

From your description, it sounds like the fuel pump is on it's way out. You can do a couple of things to see if you have fuel pressure. Next time you turn the key and it won't start, check the pressure at the fuel rail. The not-so-technical, but somewhat effective way is to push on the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Gas should spray out (don't be smoking while performing this test). If it sprays out, there is pressure. You can cycle the key to on again and it should pressurize the fuel again. (This is how I prime a piece of kindling for a fire when Jeeping/Camping, but I digress.)

The better way is to screw a fuel pressure gauge to the valve and turn the key. It will be somewhere around 39 psi if there is pressure.

All of this will rule out the fuel pump if there is continuous pressure at the fuel rail.

I'm assuming you have already purchased a Haynes or equivelant manual?? This is a must to help identify parts referred to in this forum.

Welcome aboard. Let us know what you find.

If it is the fuel pump, it is something you can do at home, but can be a little bit of a pain. You will definitely need a Haynes type manual if you are new to auto mechanics.

My wife's suburban's fuel pump went out in the desert with about 40 gallons of fuel in it. That was a pain.

 

[102]

I'd suspect the relay that includes the fuel pump since the check engine light doesn't come on any more. And it's an easy one to diagnose/fix.

 

[Guest]

Heyhey Guys,

Happy Thanksgiving! First, thanks for the replys. Some good info there. Here is what I've seen so far. The check engine like will not come on at all. I tried the error code thing per one reply and the Haynes manual to no avail. The check engine light will not come on no matter what I do. As for the reply, I opened the hood and looked at the fusebox/distro center in front of the battery. However, there is no cover on the top of it so I have no way of telling which fuse/relay is doing what. I see a hand full of the normal 10A to 30A fuses and about four or five of the little black box relay things. I did buy a new reply (and a fuel pump for that matter) to see if that would fix it. I don't want to just start changing these things around and mess something else up. Anyone point me to the right slot I'm looking for? I started looking at the process of removing the gas tank to replace the fuel pump and it does look like its going to be a bit of a pain. The Haynes book said that I would take the over off then release the tank, it does not look like that is the case. From what I can see its all connected to that pan that covers everything. Thankfully it was almost out of gas when I parked it last. Should be interesting. Everything else in the Jeep works fine. Radio plays, brake lights, horn, everything but the engine!

Thanks for all the help and I hope to hear from someone soon! Thanks again and I hope you all are having a nice Thanksgiving with your families. (As you can tell I'm working on my Jeep and I'm thankfull to be able to do that!)

Tom

 

[Guest]

Hey,
Hope your thanksgiving was as good as mine and hope this will help. Sorry if its a little late. Here is a diadram of your power distribution block. Standing in front of the jeep. Starting from top passenger side fuse.
[30A/FuelSysECU][50A/ALT.PWR.1][50A/FuseBlock][40A/Ign.Sys][20A/HazFlash][50A/ALT.PWR.2][30a/HeadLampSys][20A/Iod&HornFeed]. Then the rear driver side of the box where the fuses are stacked. Top[40A/AbsPump],Bottom[30A/AbsSys]. The next set are blank. Top[2A/AbsMod],Bottom[blank]. Top[10A/Horn],Bottom[10A/I.O.D]. Next are the black squared relays, starting from bottom passenger side relay. [ABS SYS.PWR][STARTER][AUTO SHUTDOWN][A/C]
[ABS PUMP][FUEL PUMP][HORN]. The two you are interested in are the two square black relays in the lower driver side corner. Switch those two and try honking the horn. But if the horn doesn't work first then you know that the fuel relay is bad. If the horn does work then try starting it.
Hope this helps more than it confuses you it kinda confuses me and I wrote it. If you have any ?'s about this post or the jeep just reply and and I will try and answer them a little clearer.
GreenEugene.

 

[Guest]

Ok.. No luck. 500 bucks later, new fuel pump and mounting stuff and it still won't start. The guys at Pepboys are now telling me that I have to take it somewhere else to get the electrical system looked at. This is totally a pain in my ass. Anyone in SoCal interested in a nice not running Jeep?

 

[027]

Well I'm going to send you down another path

You said every thing else works but the start mode right.

I suspect a bad ignition switch. These are prone to go out in the start mode that is the most used section of the switch. It will run you about $20.00 and takes about 30 min. to install if you have done them before, a little longer if not. You WILL need a Haynes to do this. The switch is mounted on the steering column right under the dash. There is a small rod from the key switch to the ignition switch used as the operator.

 

[Guest]

Well.. Thanks for the info but I'm not going to mess with it anymore.. Already wasted more time and money than I care to think about. I'm just going to have it towed up to the Jeep dealer and see if I can spend another 500 bucks or so.. I love wasting money, don't you? Just so much fun! Its all good I hope that the Jeep people will be able to find and fix the problem without taking my arm and my other leg(pepboys got the other one). Thanks for all the input guys. I'll let you know what the Jeep folks find out in the morning.

Tom

 

[Guest]

Ok.. The answer is in. Another 580 bucks to replace the PCM. I had it towed again to the Jeep dealer this time. They did what they do and called me. Stated that the PCM unit was dead and I they don't make them for my Jeep anymore.. So they are going to have to use a different year model. He said that there will be no problems running the different one. So 1100 dollars later I have the answer to my question. God I love america.

Tom

 

[Tippy]

Man that sucks! If it was the PCM (I think you are refering to the electronic box that controls everything often called the ECU or ECM as well), you can get refurbished ones from most major autopart stores for less than $200. Very easy to replace too. Sorry if that sounds like I'm throwing salt into your wounds! The main thing is that you got your Jeep running again!

 

[Guest]

So, for $800 plus $1100, you have a nice 94 Jeep. Why do I feel more envy than empathy for your frustration?. Perhaps because that's less than half what I'm paying for a 94 and think it's best deal I've found locally. Be happy.

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