Affordable Fuel Injection offers a Throttle Body DIY kit for about $575.

dave

 

I have the holley pro-jection on my 71 and I think its about 800 bucks.

 

Fuel Injection: Have heard nothing but raves about the edelbrock system, but like you said- very expensive. A properly set up throttle body system is a good choice, and I have read some positive things about the affordable system mentioned above. (do a search on the SWB board, I think that's where I read about it.)

As far as lift and axles, your 72 probably has a dana 30 up front and a 44 in the rear, with 3.73 gears. The 44 in the rear should be fine for 35's. Tom (Cliffhanger) has run 35's on his 30 up front with an ARB for a few years, and I don't think he has had any problems (I know he has done the Rubicon, Moab and alot more without braking it). I am also running 35's with the same set up, and a 401, but have not wheeled with it enough to give you feedback on it.

For the lift to fit 33's, you'll probably need to go spring over and still do some trimming. For 35's you'll probably need to do the above with a 1-2in. body lift, or a hell of alot of trimming.

If your going 33-35's you'll probably eventually add lockers, new gears and should defintitly go with disc brakes up front.

It all depends on what your going to do with the rig and how much and where you want to throw the money at.

Good Luck

 

Well Toad hasn't spoke up yet so I will. The Motorcraft 2100 carb is everybit as good as FI. I've seen Toad start the Toad in every bad place that my Jeepster with TBI will start and run. Plus it's about $25.00 at the NAPA!

 

I know it's usually *ME* that starts choking out before the carb does!

MC2100..engine still running

MC2100...engine still running

MC2100...engine still running

 

Brian, I am looking to do the same setup,FI. I have been checking out the Holley,have not heard too many good things.The Howell seems to be a good way to gf course the Edelbrock you know is good,but 2800.00 bucks makes it almost unaffordable.If it were priced closer to the Chevy unit....maybe. You won't get much info on FI here,some people still love that Motorcraft thing on top of the engine.But it will work,and does not have a computer.

 

Thanks everyone,

I'm trying to gather as much knowledge from those who know, because I don't think I'll get much help locally.

I like the FI idea, because it'll be a driver and a weekend rig, especially if I get to move back to the Pacific Northwest.
However, I can't justify the Elderbrock's price, even though it looks like a sweet setup.

RamblinCommando,

What have you heard about the Holley? I was wondering about the universal MPI. I think it's around 1200.

bonecruncher,

Thanks for the info. I am looking into improving the axles and disc brakes are in the plans. Also, I am expecting to do some trimming. On the bullnose, what have you used for flares or what have you seen, especially for the front?

Thanks for answering redundant ?s, I've done a lot searches to gather info.

Brian
72 Commando
ktm200exc
aprilia falco

 

Thanks Dave,

I checked out the site. Looks interesting. Has anyone installed one from Affordable Fuel Injection or heard about quality? I know from reading some other threads, that the Howell sys. has pros and critiques.

Brian
72 commando
ktm 200exc
aprilia falco

 

Hi Brian,
I only have experience with factory GM TBI / TPI systems and the aftermarket Edelbrock MPFI system, a Chevy 454.

Considering you have several upgrades, and everyone has a budget, I figured maybe Affordable Fuel Injection was an option worth looking into.
dave

 

since it looks like you are set on FI. i always wondered why a man couldn't go to the junk yard and rob a TBI/TFI unit off a chevy, make an adapter, if it wouldn't bolt up, and be done. they are everywhere, seem to work good, and i bet could be picked up alot cheaper than any of these new ones.
if the motorcraft 2100 didn't work so good, i might have tried the FI route. there is something to be said for simplicity when your in the woods.

 

[ QUOTE ]
i always wondered why a man couldn't go to the junk yard and rob a TBI/TFI unit off a chevy, make an adapter, if it wouldn't bolt up, and be done.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep - that's what I did. I pulled a TBI off of a 4.3 Chevy astro van and bought an adapter to attach the throttle body to my Edelbrock manifold. Got the whole set up for about $250. Took about another $200 in parts (in-line fuel pump, etc.) to get it all to run. It ran okay at first, but I eventually burned a custom chip to tune it to my motor and cam. Runs like a champ now and I can get parts absolutely anywhere (sorry guys - around here the TBI parts are easier to find than the Motorcraft parts).

I posted a ton of info on this conversion while it was in progress. It was about 2-3 years ago. It still works like a champ.

 

I vaguely remember something about one of the kits that are sold, Howell, I think, being made OUT of GM components. A TBI's about as swappable as a carb, just needs the input to tell it what to do.

Steve.

 

Yea Howell sells the wiring harness if needed and has a lot of info for you plus a tech line to call. They will sell you the new and rebuilt GM parts or you can get them yourself. They can also burn you a new chip to delete certain parts of the system that you don't want or need.
I bought their street rod harness and had them burn me a chip to delete... the EGR I think, long time, can't remember.
I was very happy with their service though.

 

""""there is something to be said for simplicity when your in the woods.""""

YUP --

Or anywhere!

K I S S ! ! !

 

OK I like the K.I.S.S. idea.. So will the 2100 work good adapted to a Offy dual plane? Or should I just adapt it to the old 2 barrel manifold? I've heard you get better low end torque running a 2 barrel carb on a 4 barrel manifold but never tried it.
Thanks
Keith

 

I have a 2100 on an Edelbrock 4bbl intake, mostly 'cause the intake was already there. I still have 3.73's and run 32" tires, but I'm not real impressed with the low end. I have an even-fire 231. Not sure if it has the same crank throw as the 225 odd-fire, which is known for low-end grunt because of its crank geometry. PO had a 4bbl Carter on it that coughed and sputtered on bumps, but had about the same low end I have now.
Can't say what it'd do with better gears, etc....

Steve.

 

""""Not sure if it has the same crank throw as the 225 odd-fire, which is known for low-end grunt because of its crank geometry. """"

It would have the same length throw as the 231 odd. The 225' & 231 odds advantage is being odd fire.


"""""PO had a 4bbl Carter on it that coughed and sputtered on bumps, but had about the same low end I have now. """""

If you feel the low end is weak, have you checked the advance curves? Too much advance too soon kills the bottom end.
The correct curves have been shown here many times.

And headders help the high end, but the low end suffers.

 

Going back to 28" - 29" tires or swapping-in 4.10 or 4.27 ring and pinions should bring back the low-end you're looking for. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/burnout.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/burnout.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/burnout.gif

 

[ QUOTE ]
The 225' & 231 odds advantage is being odd fire.

[/ QUOTE ]
Well, yes, but as a racer you must know that a longer throw gives you more torque, especially low end, but at the sacrifice of crank strength. The 225 is (was) credited by many as one of the best compromises. I think I have an engine build-up book and a racing engine math book that specifically mention the 225 as one of the best examples of this.
Since it ran and I had other things to tackle to get it roadworthy, I haven't tried to improve the low end yet. I intend to go with 4.10's or so, work on the advance, do your propane trick, etc. My point was that I didn't improve the low end at all by changing carbs, just pointing out all the other things I have that aren't really helping the low end. Forgot to mention headers. Them and the 32's will probably stay.

Steve.

 

I could be wrong, but I thought the difference between the 231 and the 225 is the bore.
Even if it's a longer throw, how much longer can it be with only a 6cu" difference?

The longer stroke - if any - gives more torque anyway.

The 4.10's with 32's should give you lots of low end.

The point about the carb switch just shows that wasn't what was hurting the bottom end, -- He He unless you have 2 carbs that are. The propane will tell you for sure.

Since the oddfires fire odd - Hmmm, the fact that two cylinders fire almost back to back really make the torque go up. Too bad modern day engines don't take advantage of that.

 

Modern "softies" would never buy an odd-fire: "Ewwwww, it idles too rough, Biff, take it back."

 

Right. I wasn't saying the 231 was better. I just didn't know for sure it had as MUCH stroke as the 225. And stroke factored with crank and crank pin size = higher torque. It makes sense that 2 quick bangs oughtta give you some extra grunt- no argument there either. I just don't know anybody else with a 2100 on a 4bbl intake, so was replying that I didn't see anything magic about it when I did it.

Steve.

 

OK, I've seen it refered to several times. What's the "Propane Trick"?
Keith

 

You get your propane torch and light it to look for gas leaks around your carb, a guarantee you will find some!! Actually I believe you take a torch **without lighting a flame** turn it on and pas the flow over the suspected areas looking for intake/carb leaks. If the engine rpm changes you found the leak. RRich can tell you more or try the search.

 

Use the search function to look for "propane trick". Simple, easy, cheap, effective.

But --- You have to modify a standard propane torch to get it to work right for this purpose!

Seems like lots of people don't bother with modifying it slightly, so they don't get realistic results.

I've seen it in several magazines lately - but the editors/writers of it don't understand - they tell you wrong.