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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have searched till I got a head ache.
I want to fit some 28" Fox shox and need to extend my towers.
I don't want to buy Fords as they're too pricey here.
Has anyone done and have pics of a custom front tower setup?

Also any thoughts on the top shock pin, does it have to go front to back? Or can it go left to right?
I figure that the bottom pin is front to back and that the top one could be left to right . ???

Alf.
 

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In reply to:

Also any thoughts on the top shock pin, does it have to go front to back? Or can it go left to right?
I figure that the bottom pin is front to back and that the top one could be left to right . ???

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I wouldn't do that Alfe, as the axle gets off camber both shock ends need to rotate with each other. A shock mounted
in an unorthodox fashion on a link controlled axle might go that route or more likely have the ends parallel to the axle, but
either would be a stretch.
 

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Mudslinger I think the shipping will be prohibitive for Alfie .
How about a set of late model cj towers ? Do you have those over there to pick parts off of ? If so look at 82 and up cjs they have a taller tower than a zuk and bolt on . Plus they are easily modified .
 

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Hey Alfie,

I just went through this situation last night. I have a set of the ford shock towers but for my setup it did not like how it was going to fit (if anybody wants them, make an offer. They are new). So I fabbed my own, very similar to the RRO ones. Made out of 1.5" square tube, 3/16" wall. Used the bolt on eye bolts that came with the rancho shocks. Cut them down and welded them on. I can get pictures if you like.

Fits well and does not bind even under full droop. Also made up a set of lower mounts that worked well. I believe it is important to get your shock parallel to the motion of the axle as it moves. In the case of my front SR, I set it up so that the shock is at a 90 angle to the line drawn from the front fixed bolt to the lower shock mount.

I am starting to believe that if you really want things to fit the right way and the way you want, its easier in the long run to just make it yourself first instead of replacing it again later. Anyway, I'd rather spend the night burning wire in the garage than wasting time in front of the stupid tv.

Good luck, let us know how it works for you.

Paul
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the offer mudslinger, but I will have to pass.

CJs are rare here, but the late model TJ and Cherokees are being paraded around the Malls.

Paul sounds like a RRO copy may be the way to go for me. If it's not too difficult for you a pic would help.

Thanks guys, one can always rely on help from this board. Magic.

Alf.
 

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Take a vacation in the US pack parts in your luggage thats how i get parts back to Alaska I just brink less cloths in big bags lol you should see the faces of security when the Xray a super coil and set of plug wires in one box in my carry on lol
.. I get to go sight seeing and its still less then shiping lol!
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks Supa, next time I go i'll bring an empty chest.

Paul, nice pix. I think I can do that. They sell those shock pins locally and steel is readily available.

I'm on a mission.
Thanks all.
Alf.
 

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Alfie ... just go on a field trip to a salvage yard with a tape mesure I'm sure some truck down there will have somthig that will work
 

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Alfie, (and colozuk),

I'd change one part of the top mount as shown. make the plate the arm is mounted to longer, and
weld only the top and botton edges. By doing that its far less likely to get riped out of tha frame tube.
 
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