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Is the metal on the frame weldable? My friend's dad has industrial 440, 220, 110 welders, and is gonna help me weld a pair of FSC framerails with custom crossmembers to my toy. He said to check if the two frames were weldable metals... TIA
 

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Make sure to not quench it with water or anything, simple air quench should be used... I believe this is the best way to ensure the properties of the steel aren't altered too much... Also don't weld too much at a time, stitch it together... I also recall hearin' something about no vertical welds... Do that at an angle, I think since it distributes the load over a greater area, etc. Just for safety I'd probably go a step farther and put a reinforcement plate around the sections after they're done...
 
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From my experience, welding to spring steel (frames) doesn't hold well. usually the weld will hold, but the frame steel becomes brittle and tears out. If you look at any factory frames, you will notice everything is bolted or riveted on, not welded. Mabye it would work if you go slow like Sandman says, but I would still find ways to drill holes and add some grade 8 bolts just to be sure.
 

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I know of big trucks that where turned into box trucks by welding on to the frame. But the doubled it where came togter by putting the one over the other. Also when my dad did an sbc conversion on his jeep his buddy (who reconstructs cars and builds cages for living) welded the pads for the motor mounts and cross member to the frame and they are still holding up fine.
 

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The issue is exactly in how it's quenched after the weld, as to whether it'll be more brittle or retain more original properties... If you give it a quick splash of water like a lot of people like to do after a weld for some stupid reason, it'll embrittle it. You're basically tempering it. Makes it harder but more brittle. Air quench or even cooling it more gradually by torch should help retain the original properties a little better. And I think I'd make a way so that I had at least 1/4"x 2 ft piece of plate steel inside the frame rails, with fasteners welded to the inboard side so they go through the frame and then put a similar dimensioned plate across the outboard side of the frame, and secure the nuts down. Of course Grade 8 or better hardware. Don't quench the hardware after welding either. That's also bad for it... This would be on both sides of the vehicle where frame attached, as well as inboard and outboard side of the frame rail...
Only worry you'd have then would be what *other* part of the frame would break, since I'd bet that section would not be the weak link in the system anymore...
 
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