1.Every frame from 80-91 will be the same, possibly 78-9 as well. 92-96 has the accordian frame up front

2.Yes, but youll need to change over to different ujoints, as the 10.25 uses bigger ones

3.good question, but i dont know! Theres a couple people on here who have done it, maybe they know?

 

4. Fill in your bio.

Do you have a replacement frame picked out yet? I have a line on an '85...

 

Yes, i have an 85 and an 89 lined up

 

acually, the 10.25 uses the same U joint that he runs if he has a 8.8

 

78/79 Bronco frames won't support TTB suspension without mods or fabrication.

 

Does anyone know about how much stock f-350 leaf springs (front and rear) will lift my truck?

 

I'm not sure anyone can answer that question, since your are looking at a lot of custom work. The spring itself is obviously much more heavy duty, so you can guess at 3", but the rest depends on what your Bronco will be outfitted with affecting its weight. I think safe to say it won't ride real well, i.e. heavy duty suspension, too light a vehicle. that is of course unless you are planning some major tires and a lot of add ons to your Bronco.

 

Actually my buddy has a 6"skyjacker lift for an F-350 that he said he would sell cheap, so I might try them. I plan on putting on bumpers that resembles the Ruenel bumpers and running 38's-40's? so I think those may help the ride.

Anyone see any problems with my plan or any suggestions.

Thanks

 

If it rides too rough you can remove a leaf from the pack. You'll loose a little height too.

 

That Skyjacker 6" front is gonna ride HARD! Trust me...I know

 

Burned, no offense but I think you're speaking from limited experience. The 10.25 could have come with a normal 1330 (5-1203X), Ford x-over (5-1204X), or a 1350. Mine came w/a 1350 and I use a 5-648X which is a 1330 to 1350 x-over. It all depends upon model year, engine (oil burners are obviously more likely to get bigger joints), and what Ford had lying around at the time. Obviously you can always swap yokes...........

 

1. Well '80-'91 sounds right but personally I'd avoid '80 and some '81 frames, they had strange holes in the rear of the frame, which can't help strength over time:

2. Yes, an F250/350 10.25 & springs will bolt right up, I've done it. Spring length eye-to-eye is the same, as is center pin location.

3. It is hard to say exactly. First off, how are you gonna mount the front leafs? Exactly like an F350 w/the shackle up front? If so I'd guess approx 3-4" lift. At least some of the F350s came with a 5/16" "block" up front. It's not totally a block because it's anchored to the springs thru the center pin. Obviously 5/16" isn't much to work with but it is something.

For the rear, F350s got different spring packs depending upon year and GVWR. Some packs are nothing more than Bronco packs w/a thicker overload leaf at the bottom. Some have several more leafs. Generally speaking I'd guess 2-3" lift. Keep in mind most F350 4x4s appear to sit higher because Ford used 4" blocks in the rear.

 

I know that the my truck will ride rough with the F-350 skyjacker springs, but when me buddy had the skyjacker on his truck it rode better than stock, so I can at least expect a better ride than the stock F-350 springs.

 

yup, I have an 80 and I have those weird holes in the back and right under the front part of the cab...I don't understand what the purpose of it is, but I'll box in my frame eventually and fill those holes in

 

I heard that an 87-91 Dana 60 from a F-350 will pretty much bolt up, if I use all the hardware off the F350, is this true? And what about the steering how would I go about that? use the parts off my truck or use all the parts off the F350

 

Pretty much D60 SAS now

Any '86 thru '97 D60 front will pretty much bolt in. The thing is you'll have to notch your framerails and use the stupid stock front shackles. They're a dumb "A" design, making them unstable IMO. I believe this is why Ford used track bars on these trucks but did not use them '78/9 F250s and 350s where the "H" shackle was at the rear of the spring. Here's the lame setup:

Steering is direct bolt-in. Steering boxes are the same and in the same location.

 

both mine used a 1330 yoke, and thats what im used to seeing. sorry for th emisrepresention, but i just bought a new 1350 for mine.

 

Re: Pretty much D60 SAS now

What do you think that I should use for shackles in the front? Thanks

 

Re: Pretty much D60 SAS now

Box it and hang the hangers to the rear. It will probably require some custom work on your part but the results will be better than the stock setup.

 

Re: Pretty much D60 SAS now

If you have more money than you have time or fabrication skills, investigate the ORU shackle reversal kit. It's expensive for what you get, but it should make swapping a D60 into a Bronco easier. Even if you dont buy it, examine how it bolts the springs up and you'll see that if you do something similar to their kit, you wont have to bother with those funky shackles Shilo mentioned or notch your frame. Also, you shouldnt need that tracbar which is one of the reasons that I like leaf sprung setups in the first place.

 

Re: Pretty much D60 SAS now

Well, something like this gives you an idea:
http://www.offroadunlimited.com/oru_shacklekit.htm

But IMO you'd be better off to move the shackle to the rear like Muddy pointed out. You'll have a smoother highway ride and about 2" more lift. Of course I wouldn't pay ORU what they want for their shackle reversal. You can do your own for much less.

 

Re: Pretty much D60 SAS now

My boss is a very good welder and fabricator, so could I have him make up basically the same kit as ORU and be fine?
So the ORU kit (or one made the same) bolt right up to the frame and I would not have to notch the frame rails for the shackles, am I right, and it would be better than having the A shackles. Also what would I use for for the rear shackles if I didn't buy the kit, could I make ones or is there another application that uses the one that are with the kit? Also would I need to fab up a trac bar or would I be fine?
Sorry abou the lenght and questions, but I just want to get it right the first time

 

Re: Pretty much D60 SAS now

In reply to:

So the ORU kit (or one made the same) bolt right up to the frame and I would not have to notch the frame rails for the shackles, am I right, and it would be better than having the A shackles.

[/ QUOTE ]
Well you wouldn't have to notch the frame, but you would have to box it to accommodate the crossmember. Yes that would be better then A shackles.

In reply to:

Also what would I use for for the rear shackles if I didn't buy the kit, could I make ones or is there another application that uses the one that are with the kit? Also would I need to fab up a trac bar or would I be fine?

[/ QUOTE ]
Not sure about which shackle hanger you would use for the rear shackles, but a rear shackle hanger off the rearend of a 250/350 would probably work and that would give you an H shackle. Can anyone back this up (Muddy/Norm/Shilo)? Might have to box it again at the rear shackle location for some added strength. As long as your using H shackles you wouldn't need a trac bar.

 

Re: Pretty much D60 SAS now

Yeah, you could certainly build something like the ORU kit but a crossmember is really not required. You can just box the framerails and mount some leaf hangers of your choosing, you'll have to widen the frame when you box it or run some quality tubing 'cause your hanger's gonna be 3" wide (unless custom) and the frame's only about 2" wide. Here's an example:

For the rear of the front spring it's easiest to use the stock hanger from an '80ish+ F250/350. You'll have to cut the hanger a bit on the bottom to move your pivot hole up (this is what the ORU kit does too). You can just use a stock shackle from the rear springs of any Ford pickup. Here's another example:

Depending upon where you place the front hanger and the length of your springs you may have to work a bit to get that body mount to shake hands w/the rear hanger.

 

Re: Pretty much D60 SAS now

In reply to:

My boss is a very good welder and fabricator, so could I have him make up basically the same kit as ORU and be fine?

[/ QUOTE ]
You betcha! And I'll bet you will be much more proud of it too. I have been amazed so far at how easy it is to make some of this stuff that they charge so much for.

As far as the Shackel flip All you need is the front hanger off the rear leaf spring off of any Ford Fullsize truck 78 to present. I thought it had to be an F250 too but I think that that just came from a guy who did a write up on it and it happened to be what he used. They are all pretty much the same size and will all work. Keep the bolts when you are done just in case though. I had to use my old bolts.