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The most recent four wheeler magazine had an editorial by a guy who asked IF and HOW to tow his Jeep without destroying it...the magazine said it won't hurt to tow it as long as you put the transfer case in neutral and LOCK the front hubs...for lubrication. This is the first time I have heard this. What is the real deal. On this board I have heard everything from disconnecting the rear driveshaft to put the transfer case in neutral and the tranny in gear. Why would locking the hubs help? I am cornfused!

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JK
O|||O
78CJ5 360
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Despite the fact that FWD has been around longer that most of us on this BBS, it is still a very misunderstood mechanical system. Add to that the variety of transfer case/transmission combinations, and you have more misinformation and more confusion. Locking the front hubs would not turn anything that wasn't already turning as far as I know. UNLESS it was a full-time and if the front hubs were unlocked, it would definitely shred the center differential/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gifOne case which has that potential would be a LOW RANGE EQUIPPED Quadra-Trac, where the guy could neutral the low range unit, and flat tow. With front hubs unlocked, the rear drive could just turn the rear input side of the differential, and go out the other without turning the drive chain. In that case it would soon be smokesville for the center differential./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
Quadra-Trac modified by the crack moonguy/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif transfer case team.
 

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This month's "4 Wheel Drive and Sport Utility" had an interested article on Dana 300 Buildup. It mentioned that in order to be safe while flat towing your Jeep that us equipped with a Dana 300 transfer case, you must disconnect the driveshafts because, because lubrication won't circulate through the transfer case without the engine being on, and that the author had actually seen fires related to this (they had a solution for this which involved welding small "paddles" on the inside of the transfer case"). This is just an FYI & I probably said parts wrong 'cause I don't have the article in front of me, but it was interesting none the less, a fact I did not know. The rest of the article is very nice also, but would be better if I had about another zillion dollars to spend on my Jeep. /wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif I really like that magazine though, even though it seems to be better suited for the west coast readers (GPS trails etc.)
 

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I have heard of this. It only pertains to the D300 and is for lubrications, otherwise the rear tailshaft bearings will run dry as they are lubricated by oil riding up the gears. The front shaft sits in the oil and will provide the "sloshing" action needed to throw the oil around to keep everything wet. I have also heard of people retrofitting the rear internals with paddles to move the oil around to do it's job. Rather than doing this, just disconnect the rear driveshaft, it's a lot less drag when towing.

JEEPN
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled!
GM151/SM465/NP205 twinstick/7"Lift/33"TSL's/IHC D44's 4.10's Lock'd
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Wouldn't it do the same slosh if the t-case was left in 2WD Hi Range and the main box was in neutral? Of course you would need an extra 75 HP just to TOW the Jeep/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gifOR.....how about over-filling the case with lubricant?....then drain it back when you got to Playsville/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
Quadra-Trac modified by the crack moonguy/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif transfer case team.
 

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Yes, but how are you going to over fill the transfer? It'll all leak out if you put too much in it. Maybe through the breather, but what a PITA that would be. As to the 2WD, yes, but like you mentioned it'll take more to tow it, then you're turning the tranny as well (in neutral of course). The easiest is just to lock the fornt hubs and allow the front shaft to turn, or better yet, undo the U-bolt straps and hang the shaft out of the way.

JEEPN
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled!
GM151/SM465/NP205 twinstick/7"Lift/33"TSL's/IHC D44's 4.10's Lock'd
 
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Leaving the t-case in 2wd might work, but then you run the risk of burning up the transmission depending on how it lubricates itself. As was said, this really only applies to the Dana 300 as it receives its lubrication from the main shaft. When it is put in neutral for towing this main shaft is disconnected from the output shaft and doesn't turn, thus no lubrication. The output shaft bearing is where the problem is. It is above the oil level and is receiving no lubrication to keep it cool. The oil paddles are welded to the sliding gears which do rotate with the t-case in neutral and the rear driveshaft left in place.

 
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Back in my IH Scout days, the owner's manual said to do the front hubs locked thing when flat towing. It was a Dana 20. manual transmission rigs can't leave the tcase in 2hi and flat tow with the main box in neutral for the same reason you can't flat tow with the tcase in neutral. The rear output shaft is above the oil level and will starve the bearing between the input and output shafts. manual trannies need the cluster gear (driven by the input shaft) to spin to splash the oil around. Partsmike claims that an NP435 will destroy itself in just a couple miles if flat towed with the output shaft turning. T-18's are supposed to be better for this.

Another way to fix the D300 flat towing problem is to index the transfer case differently. It can be clocked so that the front drive is a bit higher which will put more of the lube up at the rear drive. And improve ground clearance at the same time. I know of several people who have done this mod.

Jason '87YJ
(350/NP435/D300twinstick/SOA/GM14-FF-Detroit/D44/M8274)
 
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My solution is to buy a trailer. Leave everything locked in & chain it down. And when the Jeep isn't on the trailer, you'll have 1,001 other uses for it. Problem solved /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif.

TEX

/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif Got Mud?
G.U.M.B.O. Mud Racing
 
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Jason's right. The factory states that to flat tow a CJ with a D300 you put the t-case in neutral and the trans in gear. Then you are supposed to
stop every 150 miles and drive the Jeep around some to lube the rear output bearing because it's above the oil level. Indexing the t-case will
solve this. I've done this to mine. A fellow club member towed his Jeep with the t-case in gear and NV4500 trans in neutral. Absolutely
destroyed the NV4500.

Gary
 
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Love the pic of the 2 jeeps .. but did you have to have a couple of F*rds in the picture too?? :)

My buddy John just picked up a mint J10 to tow his CJ7 .. it even smells like it just came outta the show room! Pictures to follow shortly, once the camera gets finished its roll of film!

Laters!

Vance - Calgary, Alberta, Canada
1985 4x4 S-10 and 1988 Jeep YJ
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif I'm definitely with TEX on the trailer thing. I have been working on a lightweight trailer design that we can haul our Quadra-Trac CJ on. This trailer is BRIEF! Tandem axles, but not much else there/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
Quadra-Trac modified by the crack moonguy/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif transfer case team.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I like the trailer idea too...I will probably be towing my Jeep out the CA in NOV and was thinking about using a tow bar...but dont know if I want to do that for close to 2000+ miles! Theres a lot of talk of the Dana 300...does the same tow criteria hold true for the Dana 20?

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JK
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78CJ5 360
 
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